MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Removing Lower Wishbone

Old 07-08-2019, 06:16 PM
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Default Removing Lower Wishbone

I have been able to get all the nuts off and have tapped the shaft with a rubber mallet but to date the shaft shows no sign of moving. Will continue to soak in penetrating oil and keep trying. Any suggestions to speed up the shaft removal?

Recent disassembly on the left hand side.

Old 07-08-2019, 10:59 PM
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A rubber mallet won't work to break things up, it just bounces off what ever you're trying to free, you need a small steel hammer.
Take one of your castle nuts or a spare and thread in back on to protect the threads.
If you use the castle nut, screw it on so the castle is facing inward so the castellated part doesn't get damaged.
You want to take the small hammer and hit the end of the bolt, not the nut though, the nut is simply there to keep the threads from mushrooming.
Small taps is what you want, not heavy blows.
It should never be necessary to strike the bolt so mush to the point where it may distort or the threads become damaged.

Tap on both ends of the bolt.

You have to anchor the control arm as well and work the bolt back and forth with a wrench so the control arm stays put.
Continue tapping and working the bolt back and forth until it breaks free.
If the bolt is badly rusted on the inner collar of the bushings and won't move or you have sheared the rubber in the bushing, you may to use some heat to break the rust.
You will need to replace the bushings of course.

Last edited by JeffR1; 07-08-2019 at 11:01 PM.
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Northern Chris (07-08-2019)
Old 07-09-2019, 01:37 AM
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When I did mine the inner steel sleeve of the rubber bushing was rusted to the shaft. I tried all the usual ways and in the end the only thing that worked was an oxy-acetylene torch to break the rust bond, and then a 10 lb sledge hammer to drive the shaft out. Obviously the shaft is destroyed in the process, but with the rusted surfaces it probably already was scrap. The torch burned out the rubber and made a mess, do it outside. I also had the suspension out of the car so I was able to position and brace it so I could hammer on it. It was a fairly brutal way to do it, but the only thing that worked.

Other way might be to simply cut off the shaft with a sawsall on the inside of the control arm and then replace the shaft.
Old 07-09-2019, 07:05 AM
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Thanks for the advise, I'll continue to beat on it, but as I likely have the same rust issue new shafts will likely be the solution.
Old 07-09-2019, 05:19 PM
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Its been a while since I did mine but can you put a spanner on the nut on the other end of the shaft and turn it with that to try and break it free?
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Northern Chris (07-09-2019)
Old 07-10-2019, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Homersimpson View Post
Its been a while since I did mine but can you put a spanner on the nut on the other end of the shaft and turn it with that to try and break it free?
Impact driver (air gun) on the nut, some heat and soaking in penetrating fluid, but if the shaft is completely solid in the bushing, you will end up destroying it to get it out.

If you have a press then you can give that a shot, it should work, but again, you may end up destroying the shaft. I have just had to remove a bolt from a rear trunion on a Triumph Herald, 3/8" UNF in a steel bush within nylon bushes, I had to cut the thread off, and the press got to just over 15 ton before the bolt shifted, the bush was only 2 1/2" long, so you can see what can happen, and the lower wishbone shaft is 3/4" diameter and inside a tube which is probably near 8".

The rust usually only gets in about 2" from each end, but that is enough to make the job difficult.
Old 07-10-2019, 02:52 PM
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When I change tried to remove the shafts on my S Type a few years ago nothing would shift them. I ended up cutting the wishbones off and scraping the crossmember, it was pretty beaten up anyway.
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