I don't know if anybody has the re-flash ability other than Jag...that type of stuff is trade secrets......

probably looking at 200...100 for labor, and the other for the service....

 

the trans in all 2000-2002 s types is controlled by the PTEC module. The powertrain control module is responsible for all functions of the trans and engine. you can't reflash one without the other. generally we never reflash these for trans problems. what type of problems are you having?

 

i hate to be the bearer of bad news, but that sounds like an internal trans fault. i have seen similiar problems like this in many 2000-2002 s-types. your gearbox is the ford 5r55n unit. it is an ok trans but it does have its problems. We at the jag dealers can not get parts sepparately for these units, all we can do is replace them with a reman from jaguar. you can however, find a reputeable rebuilder and take it to them and have them look at it. you can do this because this is the EXACT SAME transmission used in the Lincoln LS and they can get any part for these transmissions that they want. you can also probably take it to a lincoln dealer and have them rebuild it for you. i know the we, the dealer, will charge between 4-6k dollars to exchange it with a reman unit. you can try to reflash the pcm but i doubt it will help you. you might want to scan it for codes before you do anything else. it could just be a bad shift solenoid. we can get valve body components separately. feel free to ask me any more questions whenever you need to! BTW, make sure you check your fluid level and condition!

 

one more thing, the torque convertor tsb might apply to you. if you can give me the last 6 digits of your vin, i can check for you. but generally that tsb was done when these cars were new. it was a missing o-ring on the front pump seal and causing some overdrive engagement issues.

 

Jagmaster
Question on the transmission. I have drained the pan and need to refill it with transmission fluid...How can I do it myself.

2nd - I have a Pressure Control solenoid B Malfunction...what is the least expexsive way to handle this?

 

by replacing the $650 solenoid pack.. i think you can get cheaper from ford.. explorer trani fill it thro the back near the tail end you will see a allen key screw there.. undo and fill level check is the 22 mm bolt on the pan.. remove the inner screw at 39 degree celcius it shud drissle out

 

Hello all. New to the forum but I've had my 2000 S-Type for 12 years now and I really enjoy it. My wife has the 2011 XF. Hmmmm.......
I do have a question on diagnostic codes. I get a P1780 code stating Gear 2 incorrect ration. I sometime have a problem with putting it in drive and nothing happens. Then I put it into first , start driving and then shift to drive. The scanner identifies a module. Is that the PTEC module I've been reading about on the forum?

 

There is a TSB S307-06 for Difficulty Selecting Range –Stiff Or Restricted Movement –Revised Selector Lever Cable.

Sounds like the selector lever cable is worn/loose or needs adjustment.

bob gauff

 

Think it's in the TSB section

 

The 5R55N valvebody and solenoid block are known to malfunction and can be fixed without pulling the transmission. Going out of gear into neutral is one of the symptoms - however, the issue could be transmission gear train related as well (-> rebuild time).

I changed the solenoid block (paid $100) and cleaned/rebuild the valvebody with new/upgraded springs. Also did the reflash (which combined the transmission software update with af ix for erroneous flagging of the variable valve timing as not working properly) - the reflash was done first, and resulted in MINOR improvement. Fixing the valvebody/replacing the solenoid block resulted in a transmission that shifted "like new".

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...hifting-45131/

Also see for a similar write-up but with pictures
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ild-faq-48240/

 

Modern "Electronic" Transmissions have electrically operated solenoids which make the gear changes 'instructed' by the vehicle's computer(s) based upon the driving conditions being experienced at the time. These solenoids have an electrial 'impedance' (they have a coil of resistive wire which creates an artificial magnetic field which surrounds the armature (plunger) when the solenoid is activated. The voltage applied across the solenoid termnals causes current to flow through the coil. This voltage is known as 'electro motive force'. The current (amps) that can flow through the coil is controlled by the natural 'resistance' of the wire plus the impedance which is created by the inductive capacitance of the coil as a winding. That artificial magnetic field then moves the steel armature to control the flow of the fluid to the particular gear 'clutch'. If the windings in the coil suffer breakdown of the laquer insulation coating the windings, the resistance and thus the inductive capacity of the coil will change. When that happens the solenoid will not operate as it should (it may only partially activate, or it may fail to operate at all). Either way, it will cause a change in the operation of the transmission, which may well be receiving all the correct info from the BeCM & the Transmission ECM, but the solenoid(s) are unable to translate that information into action. For example, I recently had to change two solenoids on an Aisin Warner box in a Cherokee that had been overheated. I bought the thing dirt cheap (it runs but won't go into gear, and the mechanic says that it isn't worth fixing - his quote $2500 to $3000) because there was a buck in it. The book said the solenoids should be between 11 & 13 ohms, they were both up around 85 ohms. It now changes perfectly - cost about $351 inc fluid & took about two hours.

They are probably the most vulnerable aprt of the transmission, since they are constantly working to select the right gear for the conditions. If they get too hot, the insulation will start to break down. It may take a while, but eventually it does, and that localised breakdown will lead to electrical arcing inside the coil. That of course, generates more heat in the coil itself, which exacerbates the breakdown of the insulation in that area, which then spreads to other adjacent windings. The rest, as they say, is history.

So, if you notice a change occuring to your transmission, don't ignore it. If you have recently down a bit of heavy towing, or some hard driving, the transmission may have gotten very hot.

As an aside, another thing that can cause apparent transmission shift problems, is the Air Mass Meter. This will usually manifest itself in a gradual delay in the upshift between gears, particularly into top under light throttle conditions. There can also be a drop in acceleration under open road conditions.

Cheers,

Languid