Good afternoon everyone,

2001 S-type 3.0 6cyl with the Ford trans that takes Mercon V with 132k.

Does each of the P, R, N, D, 4, 3, 2 in the J-Gate illuminate in red when selecting that particular gear for this year/series when shifting into it? The only one that illuminates in my case is the P and extinguishes when shifting out of park but nothing else lights up in red when shifting thru gears.
Is this a bad J-Gate?

and
Hard to shift out of park. I have to literally “force” the shifter until it “breaks free” from park. I was thinking I have a bad shift interlock solenoid but it “will shift” out of park even with my foot off the brake. Its parked on flat surface. Also I can not hear the click of the interlock solenoid when depressing the brake. Back to the needing a new J Gate with interlock solenoid….

and
When shifting and stopping thru R, N, D the shifter is rubbery and bouncy and not resting in its corresponding groove on the J-Gate. The shifter “overshoots” its settling location. Except for D where it bounces back and falls short until shifted over into 4th and back to drive it will “nest” into D position and no longer spongy. Running back thru N, R and P the selector undershoots the grooves. In “park“ when the brake pedal is released the rubbery shifter falls into the “P” groove.
Probably need the updated shift cable P/N SR833366 which maybe cure the before mentioned issue.

and
Been slipping between 3-4 going up a slight hill. Engine rpm increases to 4000 until it grabs.
Recently it all of the sudden revs up to 4000 rpm on the interstate until it grabs again and calms back to normal drive.
Probably the old cable style is slipping it out of drive.

I think I have the interlock solenoid and cable figured out but if someone can think of why the red lite in the P, R,N, ect. dosent illuminate when cycling thru gears or it just dosent?

But in the meantime there is this….

Code reader results while shifting thru the gears at idle for about 5 minutes to reach normal operating temperature from the dashboard gage.

68 F ambient 10:00 am
assume all temperatures are in Celsius
iCarsoft CR Plus code reader

2001 S-Type (sons car) Not Started Cold Start>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>@ operating temp
Key Detent II P R N D 4 3 2 off
Cylinder Head Temp 489 C 31 284 187 175 121 102 115 112 located on the cylinder head
Trans Oil Temp 802 824 841 881 901 979 996 1033 1028 located on the transmission valve body
Engine Oil Temp (actual) 500 467 420 382 297 272 240 232 194
Engine Oil Temp 763 760 898 935 1102 1139 1201 1219 1339 located by the engine oil filter
Engine Coolant Temp 49 57 74 81 87 96 99 99 99 located in the coolant distribution pipe

why does the cylinder head temp drop?
trans oil temp 1028 degrees centigrade? thats 1882.4 degrees F. at “operating” temp
why does the engine oil temp (actual) drop?
1339 for the engine oil temp = 2442.2 F at operating temp
coolant temp seems fine.

by comparison
2007 XJ8 (my car) Not Started Cold Start>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>@ operating temp
Key Detent II P R N D 4 3 2 off
Trans Oil Temp 29 Cel 29 - - 35 40 - - -
Engine Oil Temp 26 Cel 26 - - 37 44 - - -
Engine Coolant Temp 28 Cel 28 - - 70 78 - - -

no CEL, no OBDII history, no engine fault or history, no gearbox faults or history.

So all these sensors that are giving high temperatures are located in different areas of the car. I am guessing that it could be a problem with the Transmission Control Module located in the valve body.

It says in the Elect Guide that the “Engine management and transmission control are combined into a single Powertrain Control Module”.… This is the one located passenger side engine bay firewall. Could be in the market for one of those as well.

Thanks again for the advise on if all these problems are related to a single component or do I have to change out a lot more stuff.

Jon

 

A few thoughts, offered at no charge yet perhaps overpriced:

As you thought, the individual letters/numbers on the J-gate bezel should illuminate as you move the lever. IIRC, these lights are controlled by the position of the transmission innards. Feedback, if you will. The lights are not directly based on the position of the lever itself.

Some of the behavior makes me wonder if the shift cable is loose. Inspect the attach hardware at both ends to make sure all is secure.

Does your shifter have the upgraded metal block, or the original nylon? Remove the console cover and on the right side you'll see a block that slides fore and aft on a round rail. The original nylon block is self-lubricating but prone to breakage. The metal type is much stronger but prone to galling. If so equipped, it may need a few drops of light oil.

Don't know what to suggest for the very high temperatures your scanner is seeing. If just one, that is probably the sensor, but so many acting the same way? Make sure your battery is fully charged and the charging system is up to snuff. Maybe a missing ground strap between the engine and chassis? That is about all I can suggest. I doubt your PCM is bad as they are very robust.

 

Just noticed this odd bit. An ‘01 V6 does NOT have a coolant temp sensor. It has a single Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor on the US driver’s side. That’s it.

The CHT is what feeds the PCM, which in turn drives the dash gauge. From about 190F to 230F (don’t quote me on the exact numbers), the dash gauge is deliberately misleading and stays centered. To see the exact number within that range, I just watch it on my scanner.

Meanwhile, your scanner reported 489 for the CHT (but the dash gauge is okay), plus non-existent coolant temperature data. Sounds like you’ve got some kind of scanner issue in addition to whatever the transmission is doing. Do you have access to another scanner you could try?

 

On these earlier cars the shift cable quite commonly stretches and if so needs replacing.

 

Jaguar issued a few TSBs almost a few decades ago.

Things we dealt with 'back-in-the-day'.

S307-06 will address your issue.

 

Howdy fellas, thanks for getting back.

@kr98664 aka Karl
I looked at the electrical guide as far as I can tell the signal comes from the transmission range sensor to the powertrain control module to each of the R, N, D, ect lights. Ill see if I can trace voltage back to the harness in the J gate at a later date. Maybe theres a rusty connection somewhere.

The eyelet and the two big nuts on the side of the J gate are tight with no slop.

J gate does not have the sliding aluminum block p/n XR817754R. The nylon was not broken but there is play where the stud from the shifter slips in the groove in the block. So my guess is that the block is not being pushed or pulled all the way forward or back and/or the nylon block is binding causing the “bounce back” and stiffness when moving thru the gears. I could shift gears pretty easily by grabbing the eyelet at the end of the cable with my fingers, unfortunately I did not manually slide the block itself with my fingers or rock it in its slide to see how loose it actually was. My guess is its tolerance in the slide is pretty open by now. I have put in a order for the new aluminum block.

From under the car, with assistance from above, I can see and hear a click going into R, N, and D. I ran another sequence and I could hear the click going into R and N but did not click into D the second time. There was movement and it was almost there but just not quite over the threshold. I ran the sequence again and no click into drive so its hit or miss which leads me back to the aluminum block not pushing enough travel in the cable. The blue/red collar on the updated cable was secure in its bracket during the sequence. p/n XR833366. Ill see if i can post a video for posterity at a later date.

Ive asked a co-worker to borrow his LRII scanner but I wont be able to compare notes along with the voltage chase till Friday. Battery is new as of 1/2018 so a year and a half old.

Thanks Karl

Jon

p.s.

The ECT sensor location I pulled from the diagram from the 2002.5 MY on JTIS 303-14A p1829. The VIN on my sons 2001 S type ends in L78400.

I could never get the JTIS for the 2000-2001 MY to work on a Windows 7 computer. Ill re-download file and get software to open the .rar file.

If anyone has a .pdf copy of the 01-02 S type, even if its broken into sections, that would be great….

I apologize for giving misinformation on these sensor locations… I did physically look in the area on the engine of where the ECT sensor is on the drawing for the 2002.5 MY and there is “something” there that looks like the ECT sensor but IDK, its buried deep and dark. Im now thinking its the CHT sensor? The only other sensor I see on the drawing is a oil temp sensor.

Guess Ill need to load a update into the iCarsoft unit and use my buddy’s code reader.

Thanks again,

J


@JagV8 aka John
Hopefully the newer style cable installed with the blue and red solved the cable stretching issue.

Thanks for the input.

Jon


@Motorcarman aka Bob
Thanks for the TSB’s

S307-01 I did find the interlock release button and it feels empty. When pushing up on it there is no click or anything, its like its guts are not even there. I can actually shift this car out of park without applying the foot pedal. Takes the same force as when applying the foot brake. Going to see if i can get a J gate from the junkyard along with the solenoid.

S307-02 The interlock lever seems to move freely when shifting out of park and the key comes out of the ignition like it should.

S307-06 Cable has been upgraded seems to be moving freely inside the sheath.

S307-Yikes!

Thanks again everybody. Ill run some troubleshoots this coming weekend and post results.

Jon

 

@jonpalley, here is link to the pre-facelift X200 Workshop Manual:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jp6343385h...e_FSM.pdf?dl=0

 

WOW!. You are absolutely fabulous. Thank You NBCat It sure is nice having images that match what your looking at in the garage.

Sincerely,

Jon

 

Been half the summer and into the fall since I gave a update.

Some of the following is conjecture, I havent done a teardown.

From what I observed, and obvious, when shifting from park to 2nd the cable is being pushed. When shifting from 2nd to park the cable is being pulled.

When I read that the original selector lever design inside the transmission has too much of a ramp on the park detent in the rooster comb notch causing the driver to add extra “push force” from above that could be compressing the, assumed, braided cable? in the sleeve when shifting out of park essentially unraveling or bending it inside the sheathing I wonder… Unless its a flexible solid type cable idk.

If the cable is stretched it would make sense that it is essentially “overshooting” the drive notch on the transmission side. For this example it would “be” in drive but up top the shift rod would not be nestled into the drive corner topside of the j gate. When shifting back into park, cable pulling now, it would undershoot the park detent notch on the transmission, in this example it makes it into drive, but the shifter rod up top would bounce out of its park saddle on the j gate because of the compression/unraveling/bend of the cable giving it a spongy feel. Think of it behaving like one of those paper finger traps.

All this would make it impossible to accurately adjust the cable because it would constantly be changing positions either falling into, or not, gears down below and being undershot or overshot in the j gate gear identification zones above. It would probably have to be really stretched for this to happen.

Even though I have the blue/red updated cable Im assuming the selector lever aka rooster comb inside the transmission was never updated. The constant forceful shifting out of park may have compressed/unraveled/bent and or stretched the cable causing the two different position sensors not to illuminate the P, D, R red light. Updated cable part number XR833366. Updated selector lever part number XR841639 to Vin M45254.

Anyway….

I placed the nuts two full turns in each direction and it made it worse. I re-ran the cable adjustment procedure and it pretty much nestled down in the same spot.

So, hard to get out of park is the parking pawl in the transmission. The boy now applies the foot brake, applies the hand brake and then shifts into park, removes key. “problem” solved. so I would imagine the cable is not as stretched as I thought it was.…

…doing this also helped with the slipping issue. Think it was more of “finding a gear” vs actual slipping. The boy hasent complained about it since.

Borrowed my buddys code reader but could not get it to link up to the car.

Been checking the junkyard for a 00-01 S type but havent came across one yet. When one come in ill cannibalize a j gate and various other bits and report back. Have no idea when that will be.

Thanks again

Jon