I just got a 2005 s type it came with a few issues

the horn doesn't work, i checked all the fuses they are good.

The parking brake doesn't work it doesnt illuminate on the dash, there is an error text message on the left screen.

the cruise control does not work, the light does not illuminate on the dash there is a text error on the right screen.

the engine light is on, reading codes p1647 and p1000


the windows don't roll up or down by the key fob...not a big deal just sucks, is there a way to program it?

car has 116k on it.

 

The cruise control may not work if there is an error code/check engine light as is the case with your car. That code should be for and oxygen sensor. Check for power at the horns, if they are getting power, they may just need to be cleaned out/lubricated.

 

Hi Angela ... and welcome to Jaguar Forums from an Aussie.

Several bits of advice ... starting with suggestion you pop into the New Member area and introduce yourself. We paid a motza for a great red carpet with lots of helpful links to resources across the forums, so give us a chance to roll it out for you with a special welcome. Great avatar ... now suggest you <edit signature> to include permanent record of Jag model/year etc to ensure you continue to get accurate advice.

Before getting to your specific issues ... and I sense you are in for some pleasant surprises. There is a learning curve that will reward lots of reading and some not-unpleasant work around the car, with growing confidence ... so let's review a few basics. Rather than pages and pages all at once, lets start with ...

First, assemble all your resources ...

1. Grab your VIN # ... noting that it is an amalgam of a 10digit code commencing "SAJ" from which you can decode broad aspects of the car's build specs (see section 100.01 of workshop manual) ... followed by a 7digit sequential number (Nxxxxxx) from which we can decode the approx date of manufacture, but even more importantly, prompts you always to use only relevant sections of manuals.
2. Go to downloads area here and grab all relevant files like workshop manual, wiring diagrams etc ... but only those relevant to your VIN. For the ETB as below, get hold of JTB00014 of 11th December 2006.

Engineering Test Mode - gateway to the battery voltage and DTCs ...

1. Press and hold trip button while inserting ignition key and turning until dash lights up. Do not start car. After a few seconds Right msg window will announce "Engineering Test Mode". Release trip button immediately.
2. Now use the two dash buttons MLS/KM to cycle forwards and A/B to cycle backwards through a long menu of options.
3. Using JTB00014, cycle ETM to Battery Voltage ... you will find many, many threads highlighting problems relating to flat or dying batteries ... starting the car is nothing compared to running the car's electronic control modules. The mantra is ... >12.6V = good; <12.6V = recharge and retest; unless the fully recharged battery can hold >12.6V (as per this ETM display) replace with new battery and retest.
4. Using JTB00014, cycle to DTC where you will see the codes listed 3 to each line. These will need to be decoded, but for the moment, write them all down.
5. Exit ETM by turning ignition off and removing key.

Now, for a few of your specific issues ...

1. Horn doesn't work; cruise controls don't work; and (although you don't mention it) I bet your steering wheel based audio controls have failed also. Please test the up/down volume with radio on. If so, these are all related to a single fault - broken "clockspring" in steering - well known, inexpensive fix, but you may wish to get a workshop to replace in view of personal safety risks in working around an armed airbag. The danger of accidental deployment is real.
2. 100 to 1 EPB faults relate to a car starting with flattish battery ... hence Battery101 above ... and once tripped, it's generally locked in until a battery reset, where we remove battery neg cable for a set time; then reconnect. Do not start until you have read up on what memories are lost - like radio codes, station presets, window and steering column etc etc. Make sure you have key/fob to hand, because car will be armed after re-connecting battery.
3. Next, undertake the EPB recalibration procedure ... again, this is fully set out in the owners manual, workshop manuals etc.
4. For power windows; test that each window can be driven fully down then up from its local door switch, then from drivers door ... and hey presto ... you have probably cured the "global" window issue. If not, search on that term.

Let's draw breath here, leave the key/fob issues to another day ... and ask you to report back.
Best wishes,
Ken

 

the steering wheel controls work as far as the radio, the cruise does not

 

How do i check to see if the horns are getting power? mind you i know nothing about these cars, im a mustang girl

 

Ok i just did the code thing and i didn't understand any of it, but i do understand battery volts...and its 10.9... it starts the car just fine no hesitation. its a jag battery too

 

DTC Codes
9246, A879, 9318, E200, E197, E518, D900, C128, E519

 

10.9 is near enough dead. Replace. Should be 12.6 or so. Codes are possibly utterly false caused by bad battery. Yes, it'll start the car - and also cause endless grief.

 

i ran it again ands its at 11.5... but seriously a low battery will make the cruise, parking brake and horn not work? .. i tried to do a reset on the pb like i read on here but the calibration message never showed up....

also my windshield wipers go super fast all the time... even on slow settings it'll go fast like 6 times then pause..then go fast 6 times then pause like intermittent should.. do they all do that? its really annoying and looks stupid... also they don't always go all the way down you have to play with them to get them seated... annoying... and when they are on and it pauses it just stops where ever not seated..

 

Computers need good power. Hardly news. Just change the freakin battery.

 

Agreed. These cars draw massive amounts of power and when the battery begins to dwindle, strange things occur and spurious codes get thrown. A new battery will probably resolve most of your issues....

 

No need to be shitty about it. My audi runs just fine off this battery as well as a few other cars i tested it on... this is my first jaguar and im not really a fan of it in comparison to my audi... things not working just seems silly for a battery that holds charge and starts a vehicle.

 

Okay, don't listen to us regarding your battery. No one is being "shitty" here - we've owned these cars for years, we know what the primary issues are, and dying batteries are at the top of the list. You can listen to the folks here who have years of experience with these cars and their particular problems, or you can keep pissing around in the dark. You've already admitted that you don't know anything about Jaguars. And there's nothing "silly" about a faulty battery. In all likelihood, you have one....

Be aware that a couple of rookie owners here were advised a few years ago by their Jaguar dealerships to replace their automatic transmissions to the tune of $6,000 because the transmissions were throwing codes and shifting roughly. Turned out that the transmissions were fine, but the battery was not. One guy spent the $6,000 and will regret it until the day he dies. His newly rebuilt transmission behaved exactly the same way. Once he finally listened to us and installed a new battery, the car magically returned to normal. Lesson learned. You would be wise to do the same....

 

P1647 is an oxygen sensor fault the horn, probably something wrong with the horn or circuit.
Cruise and parkbrake together are typically indications of a bad battery.

Do the windows work with the key in the lock?

Don't forget your intro in the new members section New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

Any voltage under 12.6V can cause all these issues... 11.5V is dead weight as far as these cars are concerned as others have already mentioned. Even voltage between 12.0V and 12.4V is very questionable...

 

Then brace yourself... sell the Jaguar and stick with your Audi - since you seem to know more about Audi's...

 

Whoever sold you the car reset the OBD before selling it - clearly with the P1000 showing - who knows what other issues your going to unveil. Catching up but it looks like you came across some additional codes along the way - hope you didn't over pay for this car.

 

I got the car free...essentially. I sued a dealership and they were supposed to cut me a check ($6000) but instead handed this over...i would have rather had the cash...since the car has body damage, a cracked window and all these simple but stupid problems.

I was able to roll the windows up and down by putting the key in the lock and holding it. so yay

The car handles nicely and drives ok the lack of horn and cruise is killing me, i drive way to many miles to not have cruise. I don't have a lot of money right now so idk when i can replace the battery. Thats why i was hoping for a cheaper alternative.

And it did sound like a select few were being shitty, regardless of how you may have intended it to sound, it made me feel like i was being insulted as i "should have known" that a battery that performs normal activities is bad.


ok on a different note and please bear with me...

is there something wrong with my windshield wipers? They go fast all the freakin time... even on slow settings it will go fast like 5-6 swipes then pause then fast 5-6 times then pause... and they never stop at the bottom, you have to "trick" them into seating.. i checked the relays and switched them around and it still does it, is this just what these cars do? im pretty sure it doesn't have rain sensing.. if it does idk how to check
the wipers work good but if there is a way to make them go swipe, pause, swipe, pause that would be AWESOME... i feel dumb going swipe swipe swipe swipe swipe pause. then swipe swipe swipe...you get the idea

if this is another battery issue than so be it but is there another alternative?

 

Hi Angela,
Please do check your battery and if needs be give it a full charge. The advice you have been given so far is sound, though in some cases, could have been presented in a better way.

Does your wiper stalk have auto written on it? If it does, switch it off and then try. If it doesn't then you may be looking at a faulty stalk.

To help further we need a known good starting point and that is the state of the battery.

See how you go, good luck and keep us posted.

 

Still there Angela ... ?

I'm sorry that family health problems at my end, have prevented me getting back to you, but I do agree with JimboV8 in all his recent post.

If the reactions of some were a bit aggro, please believe that none of that was directed to offending you ... together, we labor under a great collective frustration about these highly complex electronic systems and their demands on albeit unique batteries. As I stated at the outset, starting the car is little more than a call for electrical energy ... but controlling it calls for electronic computers (originally 17 and now 20 on my car) that demand top battery performance ... or they will generate faults. As others have pointed out, you are also hearing the sum total of much hard-won experience.

OK? Then let's tackle your battery issue. If it is the original Jaguar factory fitted unit ...

• it will be branded "Varta" with Jaguar logos prominent;

• speaking not for all S-Types, but certainly on my 2007 and I'll bet on yours, it is like no other battery you have ever owned ... because it will be a Lead/Calcium battery ... not Lead/Acid; meaning that to gain full charge, it must use a 16V charging circuit, and the "good old" traditional 14V battery charger can never achieve more than a 75-80% charge;

• your car's electronics (across so many sub-systems) is telling you that either (1) most of the car is falling apart before your eyes or (2) that some central fault is causing systemic faults ... and our collective experience points to the battery as principal cause ... hence my original call that you were in for some good news;

• now using the voltage tests you conducted as I suggested, the battery itself is telling you it is no longer just dying ... it is dead and must be replaced ... voltages down in the 11s will never run the car's electronics properly;

• if original as above, then it is already 9 years old, owes you nothing but the embarrassment of your current financial constraint ... not a judgement on my part; needs no apology on your part; but is non-negotiable on your car's part.

The above 5 points are an inconvenient truth Angela. You have our sympathy, but that doesn't make the Jaguar a dumb car ... just different; very different from your previous experience. If you are forced to persist with this battery, then let me make a prediction ... sooner rather than later, the car will go into "restricted performance mode", the message centre will display "transmission fault"; and the amber engine warning light will flash on. All predictable from a dead battery.

Of course, there may be underlying faults. I would have avoided any car so poorly presented (a dead battery?), but our focus is trying to help you now that you are in a pickle. Until it gets a new reliable battery, we can only guess. Inevitably, you are the only one who can decide whether you should bale out and cut your losses, or hang out for the solution.

Please let us know how you proceed, and further help required.
Regards,
Ken