I got a 2005 stype base 3.0 v6 non sport suspension. Bought the car for 2600. Car runs perfect! But all rotors and pads are shot. Came from a snowy state. Down to business now, Ok can the brake caliber bracket get so corroded that new pads wont fit?. Look at the pics. The ones on ebay i got are the exact same as the new ones in the first pic. I ordered new caliber brackets. And brake pad shims. I even grinded the bracket caliber and it still wouldn't slide in. Only if i took the old brake pad shims out, i didnt have new shims today. But orded some and their on the way. So basically what im asking is ,is my theory right about the caliber bracket? Its so corroded and rusty its ridiculous! Even the brake pad shims have layers of rust. What do you guys think? Parts are on the way for the fronts. Front left caliber bracket and right bracket. Also when im done with the front do i need to bleed the lines. Start from the backs to the fronts. Im just gonna crack the bleeder valve and have someone press the brakes type of way. 5 times should be good on each caliper.

 

I think you are money ahead by replacing everything as you plan.....did the pins and bushings slide at all....that is probably causing your bind

 

That bracket is pretty rusty. Where is the interference that prevents the pad from going in. A wire brush should clean it up fine.

 

the wire brush didn't work to well. i took a 90 degree angle grinder to it. cleaned it up. then they would fit. but when i put the old shims in it wouldn't budge in only barley. it was to tight. i didn't have new brake pad shims today. but i ordered some, couldn't find them anywhere locally. but the caliber bracket still had bumps on it after i took a grinder to it. the car came from Wisconsin. It looks like the pads and rotors weren't serviced for years. like it sat in snow. engine runs perfect. just have to rebuild as in new parts for all the brake caliber brackets and brake caliber pins. one was seized in the front. I'm just doing the front for now. then I'm doing the rears few weeks after. think its possible, the brake caliper bracket got so corroded from the salt and snow that its started to deteriorate? it had layers of rust looked horrible.

 

one caliber pin was seized but what does that have to do with the brake pad sliding in the new pads slide in without the shims. maybe I just need the new shims. the old shims had layers of rust on it aswell.

 

That could be the problem. Lots of trouble on the forum with no-name parts from eBay.

Not quite sure I follow the issue, but are you saying after the new pads are fitted to the floating bracket, there's not enough clearance to fit over the disc? Makes me think the new pads (and/or disc) are too thick.

 

sounds like the pad is too wide to slip into the caliper bracket. Are you sure the pads are the same dimensions?

 

Exactly. The ones on ebay were a little wider than the ones i bought from orielys. The one from orielys seemed to be an exact fit to the old ones. But the sides of the old brake pads seems to be worn down. When the new caliber brackets and hardware comes in i will see if the orielys brake pads fit in. If not ill do a little griding on the orielys pads to make em go in. The orielys pads in the picure above are the all black shims. I didnt post a picture of the ebay ones.

 

I believe the front pads come in two lengths, one intended for use with the anti-rattle clips and one without. Most parts stores know to supply the parts by VIN; eBay, well, not so much...

 

check the pads are the right width first. Dont grind yet. That isnt the tight wayvto fix this and youll probably create dangerous life threatening conditions if you mess up. Those surface are ground with specific dimensions including parallelism and flatness to insure things slide. You cant fix this with a grinder. You can only make it dangerous.

I need to see ths pad measured in the binding position. And the same for both sets of brackets. Something is funky and im not seeing rust as causing this. Rust will make things stick due to flatness and a wire wheel scrub will take and interference iron oxide off easily making the slot larger than before

so something is def wrong. Im thinking wrong parts???

 

I provided my vin. Thats why the new pads and old pads look identical. The old pads seem to just have alot of wear on both ends. As i stated i belive its the caliper bracket and old shims not allowing enough clearance for the new pads to slide in.

 

SAJWA01T35FN45101 is my vin #

 

There are two lengths! The shorter one goes with the stainless steel inserts and the longer one without in the same calipers.

Yes the VIN should relate to the combination supplied from the factory but do you know what has happened since. The easy rule is if using the stainless steel inserts, buy the shorter pads, if not, buy the longer pads. The calipers are the same.

Not all pad manufacturers get this right. My first set of EBC Redstuff pads didn't fit at the front - too long! After discussing this with the EBC product manager, we found out that they only made one size but didn't know there was an alternative required for some model years. I believe they do both now. However, I didn't find them that good. I prefer the Jurid 233 pads Jaguar sometimes use. Much better performance (GG vs FF DOT edge codes and they measure much higher on the brake test machine) but maybe more dust.

More info on sizes here: https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=82753