S type R and am having an air box motor code fault. The motor is shot and not operational. Instead of ordering another one or trying to find a good used one, does anyone know the OHM or resistance of it? I am wondering if I can simply get a resistor and place it inline and eliminate the motor entirely. Jag techs can you chime in? Thanks.

 

What motor is that? Do you mean solenoid?

 

I guess 1.5-2 Ohms.
He is talking about blower motor, I think.

 

That's why everyone should post the fault code!

 

What code after you getting?

 

sorry, I'm talking about the actual air box flapper motor. You know the motor in the air box that opens the flap at Wide open throttle.

 

Solenoid.

 

What is the code???

I cannot find any code in the list for this solenoid failing. Are you getting a check engine light?

The solenoid in my XJR's airbox (same as the STR) failed ages ago, so I just removed the flap & found a dyno-proven 15hp that was robbed by the flap being closed. I never had a code or any warning light about it. In fact it's still plugged in, just not working, minus the flap.

If you want to replace the solenoid the p/n is C2C9642, probably about $240 just for the part.

Without knowing what code you have, and if it's throwing up a check engine light, it's hard to say.

From the physical size of the solenoid I suspect it draws a fair bit of current, but I would firstly just try shorting the wires out.

 

P1410 I think

 

Ha, yeah that'd be it. Air cleaner solenoid valve drive circuit malfunction. No check engine light. Remove the flap and enjoy the newly found power and noise.

 

that is the code I am throwing. I have a mina gallery intake. No air box at all. I have the original solenoid however it is bad and even if I plug it in, it does not register with the ECM. I either need a new one, or figure a way to trick the ECM into thinking its still there.

 

The code has ZERO effect on the performance of the engine and does not throw a check engine light. Just ignore it.

 

Thank you.

 

The reason the flap is automated, is to ensure that you do not get hot air in when stationary or at low speeds, but do get more air in at high speed (when it opens) when you also have enough fresh air coming in from the front.

What will happen is that the temp sensor will get heated, where the ECU will compensate to retard the ignition. So any take-off from stand still or low speed will be impacted by the retard (so lower performance), until the temp is back to normal again (could be quick though).

 

He ditched the whole airbox and fitted a Mina Hot-Air Intake so I don't think it matters too much

 

LoL, it certainly doesn't matter anymore then ;-)

The description at least is still valid, so still good to try to enclose the area where the filter is, to keep hot air out.

 

I was going to post that but you beat me to it!

 

Had not heard it called that before but that's pretty good!

I like the hot air intake.
.
.
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I will have to take a picture of it. I do have the mina intake but I modified it to make it a true cooler air intake. The Mina heat shield is a joke. I made my own and it completely seals off the air filter from the rest of the engine bay. I did keep part of the original intake the part that brings air into the stock air box. Only reason I went down this path was because a friend of mine traded in his STR and took it off his.