Another A/C thread.
Hello,
Got a friend with a 2005 S Type 4.2. Had a leak in the DCCV and replaced it. Then had the cold air on driver side and hot air on the passenger side. I fixed the CCM and now is better. There is cold air coming out of the passenger side but not as cold as the driver side. What else should I look at?
Thanks
Got a friend with a 2005 S Type 4.2. Had a leak in the DCCV and replaced it. Then had the cold air on driver side and hot air on the passenger side. I fixed the CCM and now is better. There is cold air coming out of the passenger side but not as cold as the driver side. What else should I look at?
Thanks
3 of the 5 - you have to remove the entire dash to get to them. The recirculate servo is relatively easy to get to (removing the glove box) as I also believe the servo that controls the floor/dash air flow. (driver's side foot well)
Hope this info helps.
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As JagV8 mentioned - there are many threads on the forum tackling this issue... Happy Reading...
i've got warm air coming out of the drivers side. and cold air coming through the passenger side, no matter what I do I cant change it, even been through the manual step by step, no good, any advice would be greatly appreciated
As previously mentioned - check the servo motors for proper operation. If you have the right scanner - you can perform a test of the HVAC system. There might be servo faults stored in the computer pointing you to the servo(s)... PS - either DCCV or blend door servo...
Since you changed the DCCV be aware several people have received bad DCCV's right out of the box. So check the three hoses going to the heater to see if they are hot when you have it set to heat and not so hot when you have it set to A/C.
When the DCCV was changed did you do a proper coolant flush and refill? It's important to flush the cooling system and use the proper coolant. The 2005's use Dex-cool and NOT the standard green stuff!
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When the DCCV was changed did you do a proper coolant flush and refill? It's important to flush the cooling system and use the proper coolant. The 2005's use Dex-cool and NOT the standard green stuff!
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Dear Mr X,
I got to wondering if this could be a problem with a bad temp sensor causing the controller to command an output that is incorrect. I recently fixed a slightly different climate control problem after finding a bad temp sensor, therefore all vaguely similar problems must be caused by the same issue <VBG>:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...1494&styleid=4
It would be easy enough to check the 3 sensors under the dash. Two are on the left side and one is on the right. Of the two on the left, I believe the upper one (also closer to the vehicle centerline) is the main evaporator discharge temp sensor. The other two are for the ducts feeding their respective sides. If one of these has gone bad, the controller may not realize it and think it still has a valid duct temp reading.
As a honorary Scotsman, I like to rule out the cheap and easy stuff first. If you have a wiring diagram, you can read the resistance values for each sensor from the plug on the back of the controller. Or you can pop out each sensor and read them individually. Details of the sensor locations are about halfway down on this page:
http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
The first link above has the Ford part number and details of the expected resistance values. You should see about 31k ohms with the sensor at 70 degrees F. There is another thread with a chart for various temperatures, but I can't find it right now.
I got to wondering if this could be a problem with a bad temp sensor causing the controller to command an output that is incorrect. I recently fixed a slightly different climate control problem after finding a bad temp sensor, therefore all vaguely similar problems must be caused by the same issue <VBG>:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...1494&styleid=4
It would be easy enough to check the 3 sensors under the dash. Two are on the left side and one is on the right. Of the two on the left, I believe the upper one (also closer to the vehicle centerline) is the main evaporator discharge temp sensor. The other two are for the ducts feeding their respective sides. If one of these has gone bad, the controller may not realize it and think it still has a valid duct temp reading.
As a honorary Scotsman, I like to rule out the cheap and easy stuff first. If you have a wiring diagram, you can read the resistance values for each sensor from the plug on the back of the controller. Or you can pop out each sensor and read them individually. Details of the sensor locations are about halfway down on this page:
http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/diagnose/
The first link above has the Ford part number and details of the expected resistance values. You should see about 31k ohms with the sensor at 70 degrees F. There is another thread with a chart for various temperatures, but I can't find it right now.
Thanks for the tips and explanation.
Question, to test the sensors, do I have to take them out? Is refrigerant/coolant going to come out?
I don't know to what temperature to test them at since I really don't know at what temperature is blowing out.
Question, to test the sensors, do I have to take them out? Is refrigerant/coolant going to come out?
I don't know to what temperature to test them at since I really don't know at what temperature is blowing out.
As a full blooded Scotsman I took mine out and put them in the freezer and than compared the resistance as they warmed up. I assumed (I know) that all three would not be toast so if they matched they had to be good.
They are in the air flow so no leaks when you take them out, it does help if you are a double jointed midget.
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