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Best bleeding method (cooling system) for 3.0

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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 04:50 PM
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Americain's Avatar
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Default Best bleeding method (cooling system) for 3.0

Last week I changed the thermostat in my recently purchased 2001 Jaguar 3.0 as a precaution. Cheap insurance as I like to say. But it's a week later and I still have air in the system and my temp gauge is all over the place.

My radiator man downtown told me not to mess with the bleed valves. He told me to release the pressure at the cap after every time I drive the car and that would gradually release the air in the system over time. I turn the heater on and off during all this. Does that ring true to anyone? I've been doing that for three days and I'm still messed up. Or should I just drive the car and NOT release the pressure at the cap? Just leave it alone and it will take care of itself? Or should I just take it to the specialist?

Lastly, I have scoured these forums for every cooling system thread for hours. So no lectures. Just chip in if you care to. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 05:07 PM
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It can't get out if you leave it sealed (statement of the obvious).

The bleed screws are what work. The cap might but past posts suggest not any time soon if ever (for the early cars, like yours).

Beware the screws! They're delicate.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
It can't get out if you leave it sealed (statement of the obvious).

The bleed screws are what work. The cap might but past posts suggest not any time soon if ever (for the early cars, like yours).

Beware the screws! They're delicate.
How exactly does one use them? Do you just keep unscrewing them until fluid comes out? Mine seem to turn with no effect. Do the plastic screws come out of the fitting? Or do they turn a quarter turn to release? I looked all over this forum for clarity on this and couldn't find it.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 09:34 PM
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The screw should come out. Use a large flat blade screw driver. You unscrew until fluid drips out then re tighten very very carefully. If the bleed nipple doesn't extract when unscrewing odds are its cracked and broken in the hose and will need replacement.

Personally I marked mine and count the number of revolutions in un screwing then re tighten matching the marks.

Good Luck
 
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Old Sep 27, 2014 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by abonano
The screw should come out. Use a large flat blade screw driver. You unscrew until fluid drips out then re tighten very very carefully. If the bleed nipple doesn't extract when unscrewing odds are its cracked and broken in the hose and will need replacement.

Personally I marked mine and count the number of revolutions in un screwing then re tighten matching the marks.

Good Luck
Thanks very much for the info. The front bleed screw didn't unscrew after many turns so I left it alone. The rear bleed screw near the coolant reservoir started to leak air and moisture after only a few turns. When it was pure coolant I tightened it back up and noticed that my temp gauge was back close to normal range. I'll give it another hot run tomorrow on my way to work and report back on how it went. Thanks again.
 
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