Brake Grease
Jaguar (2002my) calls for a Polyalkylene Glycol/Lithium-based brake grease such as Kluber GLK1. Even the newer Dow Corning's Molykote G3407 would work. I wouldn't mind trying either one of those on any of my cars since I've never been too satisfied with the silicone or synthetic lubes I've used for many years.
Molykote quoted me a price of over $400 for a drum of the G3407. All I need is a tube. They make everything else in a tube, but this comes in a drum. I haven't had luck finding Kluber. Anyone know of any other PAG/Lithium-based brake lubes that are available in a reasonable size & price for North America? Or am I just stuck with silicone/synthetic?
Molykote quoted me a price of over $400 for a drum of the G3407. All I need is a tube. They make everything else in a tube, but this comes in a drum. I haven't had luck finding Kluber. Anyone know of any other PAG/Lithium-based brake lubes that are available in a reasonable size & price for North America? Or am I just stuck with silicone/synthetic?
307, take a look at your local auto parts store. I have a tub (16 ounces) of lithium high temp grease in my garage. Not sure if it is exactly what you are after, but it sure does sound like it. I think I paid $5 for the tube. If I remember right, I picked it up at Advance Auto/Checkers/Kragen/etc (all the same store, different names). But, Autozone or Napa should have it too. Nothing too fancy about the grease that I bought. Probably could even find it at your larger Walmarts or the like.
For brakes I would use an organo copper high temp grease.
It may be called Copperslip or something similar.
It is good stuff but don't get it on your skin.
Copper Slip Grease 70G Tube | eBay
It may be called Copperslip or something similar.
It is good stuff but don't get it on your skin.
Copper Slip Grease 70G Tube | eBay
I did a couple recent brake jobs, one on a GM, used Permatex synthetic & then I had to go & disassemble because I found I had a hanging caliper. I could not get the new sleeves out of the caliper....had to press them out with a bolt, socket, old guide sleeve, & nut. Used to be I could push the sleeves out by hand. This was only after 10 miles of driving. It was if the new rubber bushings swelled. They were in there so tight.
I can't find Molykote or Kluber, so I'm still going to have to use the Permatex synthetic.
I can't find Molykote or Kluber, so I'm still going to have to use the Permatex synthetic.
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Silicone based high temp brake grease is available at auto parts stores. Petroleum grease will usually cause rubber parts to swell and deteriorate.
We used VOLVO brake grease (because the Volvo parts dept was next door at the dealer)
on all Jaguar brake jobs. I still have several dozen tubes of the brake grease because we were issued a tube for every brake job but you can get around 10 jobs from a tube.
I would guess that ALL auto parts stores sell the correct grease.
bob gauff
We used VOLVO brake grease (because the Volvo parts dept was next door at the dealer)
on all Jaguar brake jobs. I still have several dozen tubes of the brake grease because we were issued a tube for every brake job but you can get around 10 jobs from a tube.
I would guess that ALL auto parts stores sell the correct grease.
bob gauff
I'd hoped to find the PAG/Lithium type that Jaguar recommends (Kluber GLK1).
The manuals for my GM's recommend white lithium grease. New Toyota manual doesn't specify, but shows what appears to actually be anti-seize.
I have a program with all aspects of maintenance covered, for aircraft, but a lot of it applies to vehicles too. It has an anti-seize selector on it based by operation temperature & metal type.
According to my selector, I should be using a nickel based anti-seize??? Silver-based alternative but it doesn't withstand as high of temps as nickel. Unfortunately, I don't want to use anti-seize that doesn't specify it's for caliper pins. (Permatex sells nickel-based, but recommends it for exhaust systems).
It's recommended zinc or copper antiseize not being used with stainless steel. Good quality caliper pins for the most part are chromed. Since stainless has a % of chromium in it, a zinc or copper antiseize may not be good to use with it. It also states antiseize that contains graphite or other carbon compounds should not be used on stainless at elevated temperatures. These carbon products can create carburization.
I would think a caliper pin lube would have to withstand high temperatures, withstand exposure to water & chemicals, not run, not swell rubber, and prevent corrosion in addition to lubrication.
Permatex Ultra? I do not have much faith in it. Other complaints have surfaced on-line regarding rubber swell.
I used Permatex Ultra for lubricating contact points on drum brakes, & after a few months, the lube was all gone, leaving dry corroded spots in it's place.
Has anyone used Castrol 'Red Rubber Grease'? It's said to be: anti-corrosive, high temp, low drop point, & it's not supposed to swell o rings or rubber.
The manuals for my GM's recommend white lithium grease. New Toyota manual doesn't specify, but shows what appears to actually be anti-seize.
I have a program with all aspects of maintenance covered, for aircraft, but a lot of it applies to vehicles too. It has an anti-seize selector on it based by operation temperature & metal type.
According to my selector, I should be using a nickel based anti-seize??? Silver-based alternative but it doesn't withstand as high of temps as nickel. Unfortunately, I don't want to use anti-seize that doesn't specify it's for caliper pins. (Permatex sells nickel-based, but recommends it for exhaust systems).
It's recommended zinc or copper antiseize not being used with stainless steel. Good quality caliper pins for the most part are chromed. Since stainless has a % of chromium in it, a zinc or copper antiseize may not be good to use with it. It also states antiseize that contains graphite or other carbon compounds should not be used on stainless at elevated temperatures. These carbon products can create carburization.
I would think a caliper pin lube would have to withstand high temperatures, withstand exposure to water & chemicals, not run, not swell rubber, and prevent corrosion in addition to lubrication.
Permatex Ultra? I do not have much faith in it. Other complaints have surfaced on-line regarding rubber swell.
I used Permatex Ultra for lubricating contact points on drum brakes, & after a few months, the lube was all gone, leaving dry corroded spots in it's place.
Has anyone used Castrol 'Red Rubber Grease'? It's said to be: anti-corrosive, high temp, low drop point, & it's not supposed to swell o rings or rubber.
Last edited by 307883281600350; Jul 5, 2013 at 12:04 AM.
Sounds right to me.
I've used a variety of over-the-counter products labeled as caliper lube with good results. Some of them have already been mentioned in this thread. I really don't recall a rubber swelling problem.
Lately I've been using synthetic high-temp wheel bearing grease (red stuff, Valvoline, but I think everybody has a similar product) with good results on caliper pins/slides. I thoroughly inspect my brakes annually. It covers all the requirements you just mentioned.
As for drum brake backing plates I've never found a product that I was especially happy with and the movement of the brake shoes just scrapes away the grease anyhow, over a period of time, leaving a small glob on either side of the contact points. Once a year or so I simply do what we used to call a "brake service"....clean out all the brake dust, lube the pivot and contact points, lube the adjusters, etc.
I've been tempted many times to use Sta-lube boat trailer bearing grease as it is VERY sticky and stays put. Not rated to high enough temperatures, though. At least it wasn't umpteen years ago when I last checked. Great all purpose stuff to have around the garage, however.
Cheers
DD
I'd still like to know who's hiding the Kluber GLK1 & why the Molykote G3407 only comes in giant $400 pails.
I dunno.
Apparently the Molykote is marketed only to manufacturers for use on the assembly line. Since the retail market already has umpteen offerings in the same category I reckon they decided to stay out.
Looks like you can order Kluber on-line here:
https://www.klubershop.com/
Cheers
DD
I need to mention that my maintenance program (mentioned before) also has a selector for 'grease', which when I put the info in (little movement, fretting) it produced Molykote G-407 Polyalkylene Glycol as what's needed.
I ran into this with an antique motorbike. I needed GL1 for the suspension. That's gear oil. Everyone was telling me just use wheel bearing grease. I argued with other enthusiasts that the reason GL1 was required was because the bushing sleeves in the girders were made from brass & hi-pressure grease will corrode & eat those bushings. No one could understand that GL1, which is flowable, could be put in a grease gun & pumped into the fittings. It's the way they did it to the bike over seven decades ago. I did find the GL1 & had to buy a drum of it. I also managed to get the SAE10 that was required in the generator & elsewhere, and the SAE20W for the trans/primary in cold weather.
Try finding SAE10, SAE20W now... In recent years they've been taken off the market. Obsolete I guess. Synthetic might be available. That's the fad now. They market some brake fluids as 'synthetic' when really all brake fluids except the DOT 5's are synthetic to begin with. Some things disappear because of environmental issues, such as R12.
I can get Molykote G3407 if I pay $400. Other Molykote greases are available by the tube, so I can't figure why G3407 or G407 isn't. But I'm giving up on this. I'll just use what everyone else uses simply because it's all that's available.
I ran into this with an antique motorbike. I needed GL1 for the suspension. That's gear oil. Everyone was telling me just use wheel bearing grease. I argued with other enthusiasts that the reason GL1 was required was because the bushing sleeves in the girders were made from brass & hi-pressure grease will corrode & eat those bushings. No one could understand that GL1, which is flowable, could be put in a grease gun & pumped into the fittings. It's the way they did it to the bike over seven decades ago. I did find the GL1 & had to buy a drum of it. I also managed to get the SAE10 that was required in the generator & elsewhere, and the SAE20W for the trans/primary in cold weather.
Try finding SAE10, SAE20W now... In recent years they've been taken off the market. Obsolete I guess. Synthetic might be available. That's the fad now. They market some brake fluids as 'synthetic' when really all brake fluids except the DOT 5's are synthetic to begin with. Some things disappear because of environmental issues, such as R12.
I can get Molykote G3407 if I pay $400. Other Molykote greases are available by the tube, so I can't figure why G3407 or G407 isn't. But I'm giving up on this. I'll just use what everyone else uses simply because it's all that's available.
G-3407. PM for more info. I have several packets, brand new. This grease is amazing.
Each packet has enough grease for to lubricate many caliper pins.
I was testing every pin lubricant I could find.
Each packet has enough grease for to lubricate many caliper pins.
I was testing every pin lubricant I could find.
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