Hello all

I figured i would start a new thread for assistance on my ac. I need to remove the ac line that bolts to the compressor. One leg goes to the condensor and one leg to the suction side peanut fitting under the left wheel well. It should be the same line found on 2003-2008 s type v8s. If anyone has knowledge or experience with this i am all ears. The rubber portion of the discharge leg split on mine. Just have to remove it to get it fixed by an ac line repair shop. Thanks

 

I’ll grab a flashlight and look at my 06 S type NA and let you know

 

I don’t recall with the lines on my S type R look like at the moment because it’s not here and I’ll post a thread on that because this is a real head scratcher and I’m dealing with

But in my opinion, from memory, the line looks the same on the natural-aspirated s tpye v8. The line attach to the compressor on the left-hand side by means of a manifold block. the line going to the condenser comes out the side of the block (facing the drivers wheel) and goes towards the front to the condenser. The high-pressure line looks like it attaches to the block from underneath and then comes out back around the back of the compressor. I remember that’s the way my S type was because when I changed the compressor that high pressure line was in the damn way of moving the compressor towards the rear of the car to remove it.

but here I snap some pictures off my parts car

 

thanks for the photos they help to formulate a plan....on the R model there is an extra subframe right underneath the compressor.....if anything i will drop that subframe and do it that way.....have to disconnect the steering knuckles and a couple other things, but doable.....i may be able to get the line forward enough and repair in place....that is my first option because i found an ac specialist that makes repair sections to custom lengths and it looks really good

 

Good luck at least you’re just replacing the lines. That’s a lot easier than trying to pull out that damn compressor. My struggled for hours with it when I did it several years ago and I’m about to do it again. I remember the line that comes around the back, the compressors in the freaking way and there’s no way I get my big Clumping gorilla hands in a position to maneuver the compressor bolts out and then getting the compressor itself out, and that’s even after dropping the steering rack

 

Hard job for sure!
I sometimes take the motor mount nuts off and using a board under the oil pan jack the engine up. It was surprising how much I could raise it.
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yeah if i have to remove the entire line i will have to do that.....you see in the last photo aarcuda posted the line with the pressure swtch and rubber line...that is the one that split on me....i am hoping i can undo both ends and clear out enough in the front to pull that line forward enough to get to it and cut it out
this is what i plan on using....they make them custom also...https://www.autocoolingsolutions.com...air-kit-tr8-6?.......made for aluminum ac pipe so it will not crush the existing pipe....only need 1 inch on each side for connection

 

Cut the bad portion of line out today and ordered the custom made splice. Not as bad as i thought. I did find out the line rupture was my fault and not from the line being rotten. I did not double check the spacing between the line and powering steering pump pulley and it cut a slit in it. I could have sworn i checked it but there was so much else going on i missed it. Good thing is i had to take off bottom rad hose for space. Never replaced and it is looking bad. That will be the last cooling hose that had not been replaced. I did all the others already

 

I like your repair hose and hope it works well. I tried this years ago but I think the fittings were not a good as today's? My repair leaked. I like the little fitting (Compression Ring) under the nut to take up space. I think that is the key difference.
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i spoke to the engineer on the phone and he said the compression fitting was designed for aluminum ac tubing. Not any other metal. To take the line out in one piece would be more work than replacing the compressor. Also the new line is over 400 dollars. My custom length repair line about 60. All that is needed to connect the repair line is about 1 inch of straight tubing to go into the compression fittings. Not hard to cut for that. Results next week i hope

 

Results are repair line worked great. I had to cut a bit more off of one line to get a full inch of nice round tube and tweak the ends of my original lines a bit to get the proper alignment but everything is sealed tight and secured this time. Luckily the expansion valve and evaporator were free from debris by the condensor and dessicant bag. My compressor did not detonate thank goodness or i would have had to go after those also