Changed My Battery and My Jag Won't Start!
I have a 2000 Jaguar 4.0 S-type. I have never had problems in the past. I have under 140,000 miles on it and it's garaged daily. I changed the battery and now my car won't start. All my guages in the instrument cluster are dead. The only lights that come on now when I put my key in the ignition is the airbag symbol. Here's a list of things that don't work now.
Wipers
Turn signals
The delay night lamps (they come on without the delay switched to that side)
No heads up messages displayed in the cluster anymore.
Also when I attempt to start the car I get one shot before I have to take the key completely out of the ignition to repeat another attempt. I checked all three fuse locations and nothing is blown. The car turn's over, but doesn't start. Sounds like it's not getting fuel. I have gas in the car and the battery is new and charged all the way. Does the instrument cluster control all these things that have failed to opperate, even starting the car? I'm all ears to ways to check, reset, or bypass this in order to get my car working again.
Thanks!
Wipers
Turn signals
The delay night lamps (they come on without the delay switched to that side)
No heads up messages displayed in the cluster anymore.
Also when I attempt to start the car I get one shot before I have to take the key completely out of the ignition to repeat another attempt. I checked all three fuse locations and nothing is blown. The car turn's over, but doesn't start. Sounds like it's not getting fuel. I have gas in the car and the battery is new and charged all the way. Does the instrument cluster control all these things that have failed to opperate, even starting the car? I'm all ears to ways to check, reset, or bypass this in order to get my car working again.
Thanks!
Welcome to the forum GVorderstrasse,
I've moved your question from JagV8's Acronym thread to a new one of your own.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
I've moved your question from JagV8's Acronym thread to a new one of your own.
Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.
Graham
It sounds the same as a dead battery so check as if it's that:
is it not quite connected properly?
what voltage does it read? (should be 12.6V or so)
do you get the same (near enough) voltage at the fuse panels e.g. in engine bay
what might you have disturbed or nudged during the fitting?
New batteries often come partially discharged (I hate that!) and you get what you're getting.
is it not quite connected properly?
what voltage does it read? (should be 12.6V or so)
do you get the same (near enough) voltage at the fuse panels e.g. in engine bay
what might you have disturbed or nudged during the fitting?
New batteries often come partially discharged (I hate that!) and you get what you're getting.
I cheched the battery this morning and it's higher than 12v. The car sounds very strong and want's to turn over. I checked all fuses and connections. Its a relay or something. What are the typical symptoms of a instrument cluster failure? Is it everything that I mentioned? I'm still looking.
Last edited by Don B; Sep 9, 2014 at 07:49 PM.
I cheched the battery this morning and it's higher than 12v. The car sounds very strong and want's to turn over. I checked all fuses and connections. Its a relay or something. What are the typical symptoms of a instrument cluster failure? Is it everything that I mentioned? I'm still looking.
It would be worthwhile to measure the voltage at the battery while cranking the engine. Jaguars do not like low voltage and if it sags too low while cranking the Engine Control Module (ECM) will not trigger the ignition to fire.
It might also be worth checking the battery negative cable where it attaches to the body, which forms a principle ground for the entire car. It's possible that if that junction was corroded, disturbing it while replacing the battery may have increased its electrical resistance.
Please forgive the following obvious questions but we may as well rule them out:
Is the new battery of the correct size (form factor)?
Is the Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) rating of the new battery equal to or greater than that of the old battery?
Are both battery cable terminals sparkling clean, free of any oxidation or corrosion, and fully tightened but not overtightened? Was one of the terminals cracked while installing the new battery?
Cheers,
Don
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