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Check Engine Light?

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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:10 PM
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Default Check Engine Light?

My check engine light came on recently, so I took my car to Autozone to check about what the codes mean.

I am absolutely clueless when it comes to cars, so any help you all can provide as to what the codes: P0174; P0153; P0171, mean.

And perhaps more importantly, how much I will be looking to pay to get these codes fixed.

Thank you SO much in advance for your help.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:23 PM
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How about some more info on your car...model year, engine size?

thanks!
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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yessir -

2000 Jaguar S-Type 3.0 V6

Sorry, not sure what else is necessary. Anything else you need?

Also - I should mention that if I turn my car on and just let it idle, it will die. The revs will bounce slightly for a minute or two before the car dies. Also when I'm at a stop light, if I press the brake and let the revs sit around 1000 the car performs fine - otherwise it will die at the stoplight.

Not sure if any of this is relevant?

Thank you again for the help
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Mileage, too, and rough guide to how it's been looked after (serviced) if you know.

The codes could be misleading (they're best viewed as hints), depending on your answers.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Just topped 1000 miles, and had a tune up maybe a year and a half ago, if that matters.

Also oil changes every 3K miles religiously. And about 1700 until I need the next one.

Thanks again
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:33 PM
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Ahhh, you posted as I was typing!

You probably have an air leak into the parts which should be a partial vacuum. That then messes up all sorts of things but especially can cause stalls. Or you could have coils/plugs which need replacing,. It would be good to know your fuel trims, as they would tend to confirm it.

P0153 should be the Bank 2 (left) side upstream O2 sensor (the device or wiring etc for it). Viewing its waveform might confirm. The fuel trims would likely help to confirm or not.

Just about could be a dirty MAF, but on the V6 it's almost always an air leak. Commonly the PCV elbow (a bit of pipe).

If you wuldn't fix it yourself where are you? Someone may know a sensible shop to take it to.

Wow, that's low mileage!!
 

Last edited by JagV8; Dec 2, 2009 at 05:36 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:39 PM
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Not quite the same (an X-Type) but here's something similar:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=6101
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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yeah I mistyped that for sure, just topped * 100,000 * miles, sorry.

So if I generally have no idea about cars, or fixing them, I would imagine taking it to a shop would be my only real option, no?

Also, do you have any idea how much I should be looking to pay to get this fixed?

Finally, is this the type of problem that could ruin my engine if I wait two weeks to get it fixed (I'm a student and have finals approaching .... the car was given to me by a deceased relative)? Or does it need immediate attention?

Thank you so much for your help... y'all are lifesavers.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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P0174 P0174 Fuel Trim too Lean (Bank 2)
P0153 P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0171 P0171 Fuel Trim System Lean (Bank 1)






list of codes and what they mean: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=1116

its in the FAQ section and a sticky on this here forum.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2009 | 08:08 PM
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Default 2000 s-type V6

Hi I have the exact same model as you.
P0174 is system too lean bank 2
P0171 is system too lean bank 1
So that means too much air and too little fuel. Clogged fuel injectors can cause this. Or, a much more likely scenario as jagV8 pointed out, is you have an air leak.


Because it is happening on both left and right bank of your engine, there are 2 spots to check. First make sure there are no obvious cracks or loose joints in the pipes between MAF sensor and throttle body. Next, get the PCV valve replaced (not expensive) they can crack and start to let air leak in.

If that does not fix it then your oxygen sensor is fried and unfortunately is a much more expensive part to get repaired.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 02:48 AM
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At 100K miles you've a car very like the one BugDoc posted about and similarish problems so read his posts (search for him as a member). You may well need the gaskets/O rings that shrink and harden with age as well as the bits of piping that perish. And maybe coils and/or plugs. The parts aren't especially expensive but the time to work on it if you can't DIY will really add up.

Don't leave it for many miles as an air leak which can't be controlled by the car (thus the light) can do serious damage.

If you've a laptop and time (quite a lot!) you can buy a cheap ELM327 lead on ebay and some reasonable software like EngineCheck then learn about OBD and study your car's readings yourself. Will save you tons in the long term (you swap your time for money - it's like paying yourself).
 

Last edited by JagV8; Dec 3, 2009 at 02:51 AM.
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