C1165 Speed Wheel Sensor RR Input Circuit Failure
P1234 Fuel Pump Driver Module Off Line (inertia switch)

I've posted before about this problem when it rains heavily and went through the whole throttle body check with no success. Unfortunately this problem only happens when it rains and being in chicago this winter, didn't really have rain again until last weekend. What happens is that after driving around in heavy rain for awhile my abs light comes on and abs fault, then my dsc light and dsc fault comes on and inevitably right after that, the engine dies. No restricted performance, just check engine light and dies. After a while sometimes 30 mins to a couple of hours, car starts up ok and i can drive it home.(even if its still raining out). Then witin 1 or 2 days in the garage , the warning lights go away and car drives perfect. Took it to the dealer the first time it happened, they charged me $130 to read the codes, said there were to many codes,reset the computer and told me to bring it back if it happens again. I'm sorry but i don't have that kind of money to keep throwing away on diagnostics. But i digress. took it to autozone this time and got the above codes. i was wondering if anyone with maybe a little familiarity in the wiring of the jag could help me out. Do maybe the wires that run to the fuel pump and right rear abs run along the same line. i remember the tech at jaguar saying that it looked like some wires underneath looked to rubbing on something. I'm not an auto tech but i am an audio tech, and just using my tech logic, it seems to be the only way an abs fault and a fuel pump fault would always happen at the same time during rain. I'd hate to treat my jag like a motorcyle when it rains (keep it in garage...lol). Plus its not always feasible. Come jag masters, can we put our heads together to help a noobie out. Thanks guys.


2004 jaguar stype 3.0

 

A fair few of the harness routes are shown in the workshop manual (ebay $5). The circuit diagrams are in there, too, and with your background you should be right at home! It only partly sounds like chafed/wet wiring but well worth hunting around. Check no water in the trunk bottom while you're at it.

 

first a inertia switch failing will do exactly what you state, dies and then restarts. Ive had a few over the yrs doing exactly that. you can either buy another, orrrrr disconnect the connector and pin the circuit to take the switch out, then if that doesnt happen again you just diagnosted that problem.on the right rear wheel spd sensor. you may be getting water past a connector. disconnect the sensor and pig tail harness on both end and check for missing/damaged seals.
on the diag fee. this is the kind of BS that causes people to cll us ***********s(I can say that here because IM so special )
If that was me and I wanted to clear and send you ony our way I would NOT have charged the first time cause it takes no time to clear codes and I WANT you to come back..sooooo I would calll the advisor and or service manager and state that you have no problem paying someone for their time to diag, but just clearing codes is NOT diagnostics. So you would like to eaither be reimbused and at least come back so you can get the problem/problems diaged. Be aware that those are 2 seperate issues and while I dont always says I need 2 diag fees, sometimes I do depending on how difficult each issue is and wether related. I do get peopl in here that want to pay A diag fee as in single and then think that covers their laundry list of issues
Sorry, but thats like going to a Lawyer and paying an initial consult and talking about your upcoming divorce, your DWI, and your IRS problem
Besides for $130 you can buy the exact handheld scanner I like and I use from Mac Tools ck and clear your own stuff

 

Thanks jagv8. Gonna look into it. Just found my jtis cd and am gonna start studying. Thanks brutal. I wish I had a respectable service tech around here like you. Would make life so much easier. I got referred to a place that hopefully is customer friendly but we will see. 2 things. One, isn't the inertia switch a safety feature that I would not want to bypass? Also, is there anything else that you could think of that would cause both of the faults to happen at the same time each time it happens? I mean it's pretty much like clock work in that when it rains enough, they both always happen at the same time. Is there a connection block by the right rear that both components plug into. Btw, I also checked the trunk and under the spare it is bone dry. I got under the car a little bit earlier but didn't have a chance to dig too deep. Thanks again guys for taking the time to try and help. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Without me spending time to research, i would pull up your back seat bottom. There a 2 clips 1 each side with release levers that both get pushed towards the drivers side of the car while you pull up. The harness to the rear of the car for both abs wheel speed sensors, and fuel pump, etc is under the seat bottom. Maybe your getting water down there from clogged/disconnected or leaking sunroof drains. Thats the first place ide look as far as commonality. On the inertia switch its a temp deal to check and if you bypass it just dont get in a wreck and break a fuel line
if you think you have a leak in this area take the headliner and associated trim out and down and water test the back window and sunroof drains. If you go theat far ide blow out the 4 drains anyway since youre there

 

Thanks brutal. I will check that next. And also try not to get rear ended.

 

Hey brutal, took your advice and pulled out the lower back seat. Just wanted to confirm what i found. first pic is the fuel pump access? sec pic wire harness that goes to abs and fuel pump inertia switch? Want to make sure i'm on the right track before digging deeper under the car. Thanks

 

First looks like fuel pump / sender. (No idea about the other.)

 

yes first is pump, and trace the marness from the wheel spd sensor to verify. But that would probobly be it, but I havent been in 1 for yrs, Im very visual and just look at the car to see what goes where. Remember I deal with about a 15yr span of jags, and many differant models, I cant remember it all
The inertia switch is up under the dash behind the passenger apost kick panel. Not in the back

 

There are good details of the inertia switch in the handbook.

 

Oh. I thought the inertia switch was in the trunk. Will be getting u der the car in a few. Thanks.

 

Don't know if i should start a new thread on this but now have more issues. So i took the car out today to pick up a few tools (it dried out so working fine for a few days) and the restricted performance light started coming on and off, sometimes quick on and off and sometimes it would stay for awhile and go off for awhile. It was a bit sluggish the first time the message came but seems to be driving ok now even with the restricted flashing on and off. it was doing it at idle and while driving. Took it to autozone for a code read and now got 2 more codes...p0191 (fuel rail something?) and p0328 (knock sensor?). Any ideas? Looks like she's gonna have to go to the shop after all. Hopefully i won't get taken.

 

restricted perf is ffrom the knock sensor code, theyre under the intake. Unplug and plug back in making sure the connections are clean. same with the fuel rail pressure sensor. I think you may have some electrical connection and water issues that you need to get to the bottom of before they become worse and more plentifull.

 

This is a oneline for your car http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...x2062004en.pdf I also have other OBD code info on my page http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairElectrical.htm if you need it. Hope this helps!

OBD Codes http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...tos/P20003.PDF

 

Thanks Gus, Jagv8, and Brutal. I appreciate your help. Unfortunately i think my problems are something that i probably couldn't handle in the short period of time that i need my car back up and running. But at least with your help i can go to the shop more educated about the problems i'm having and hopefully not get raked over the coals on this. Wish you guys were closer to the Chicago area. I'm taking her to Maas Auto in LaGrange IL. Recommended by a fellow jaguar owner. No more dealers for me.

 

So the shop had the car for a week and couldn't reproduce the problem, using a water hose and driving it in a light rain. However, they didn't charge me which was a pleasant surprise. I'm gonna have to wait for the next rain storm and drive it around their shop until it fails and have it towed in. Not the best solution but gotta do something. Anyways, they didn't do anything with the knock sensor and was wondering how easy it was to change. Code is p0328. Is that a specific sensor or do i have to check all. If any one has a pic of the knock sensor location that would be great. Found one at rock auto for a 24.99 or 29.99 depending on if its top of the engine or side of the engine. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

 

The code P0328 is for the RH (right hand, passenger side US vehicles) which is the "side" knock sensor.

You will have to get the front of the vehicle in the air and remove the belly pan. The sensor is located rear of the altenator, below the exhaust manifold and above the starter. Ahemm this is the easy one to get too.

If you are handy with a multi meter there are checks to go through prior to replacing the sensor. Let me know.

 

Is it true you have to replace the intake manifold gasket when replacing the knock sensor?

 

Not with the RH knock sensor. the "LH" sensor is located under the intake maniold as brutal stated, so yes the intake would have to come off. The code P0328 indicates RH sensor as I stated above.

 

Thanks Rick. Sorry i started a new thread. Just wasn't sure if you were around and needed an answer quick so when the shop calls back i can be more educated with an answer. I would have tried to do it myself but i needed the car for sure tomorrow and since i've never done it before, i was kinda worried. But really, thanks again for the quick response.