Hello all,

2000 s-type v6 petrol auto - replaced cracked expansion tank and its lower hose.

Removed upper and lower hoses, then tank (some spillage). Plugged upper hose to stop entire coolant flowing from aluminium inlet pipe, closed bonnet and got the wallet ready.

9 days later...

Installed new tank and its lower hose, put what fresh coolant we had left-over..reached 4 inches below cold-fill level. Some air bubbled through tank via upper hose connection.

Cap-on engine started - short drive - temp gauge climbed very quickly to half-way and cooling fan remained on for several minutes after engine stopped - never seen this before.

Should we have bled the system properly - JTIS stated the tank continuously separates air from system?

Or is this normal behaviour - the system has obviously been loosing pressure since before we bought the car.

Thanks,

 

Have a go with Search or Adv Search as the details and warnings about it have been posted. May well be in the FAQs with pics!

 

Did you bleed the system through the opening on the hose with plastic cap on the end? (Hose coming off the top of the expansion tank near the master cylinder) I would check there first. Be careful opening that port - that plastic connection is prone to breaking (yours should be new but nonetheless be careful) Also, perform the search.

I have an 00 S Type - I too notice the fans do run for about 2 - 4 minutes after shut down but only on a hot day (+90 degrees) with the AC on. I believe this is normal.

 

Correct me if I am wrong. Aren't there 2 bleeders on the preface MYs. I seem to remember the coolant tank bleeder and one near the brake vacuum area.

 

Hello all,

Well I topped-up to the cold fill level and took car round the block.

Engine reached operating temp much slower this time and fan didn't kick in atall.

Coolant level has dropped again though! Certainly no leaks - the cracked tank must have pulled-in so much air into the system over the last few months.

3 ltrs too low as it stands.

I noticed the there was short "whistle" sound, 2-3 seconds, when engine was turned-off (bonnet was up).

Does the jag system release pressure this way - i opened the cap 1 hour later - very little pressure released. Short drive though.

 

Do you have the heater set to high to make sure the coolant is getting through the heater matrix?

 

Norri,

We didn't touch the heater. Hot weather here at the moment! I'm concerned just removing the tank, plugging upper hose without draining the entire system might cause issues.


The system has clearly been low for some time with air being pulled back into the mix via hot cracks in tank on every drive.

3 ltrs of fresh put back into system since friday and just checked tank now cold - needs about another 750ml to reach cold-fill level.

It's the short whistle that has got me thinking.

Sounds like a BeachBall deflating. Like a "Squeeeeeeeeeeeak".

 

It's England Leonard it can't be hot!

Strip to your semmit and put the heater on high to make sure you have circulation through it.

Have you tried the bleed screws that Rick mentioned?

 

Hi,

It's been a cracking week here. Jet stream has moved its **** temporarily.

I've not touched any of the bleed screws as other detailed posts on here mention you only have to sneeze and they break!

We're not even 100% the system has trapped air however would repeatedly running car with a cracked tank introduce air into system anyone??

Regards,

 

Is it good now, or has the gearbox just diverted your attention?

 

You can just keep driving. As the car cycles hot to cold and back it will work the air out of the system. I still did not see if you used the bleeder up by the master cylinder? I find that for a week or so after draining the coolant it will take smaller and smaller amounts of fluid to top up the system.

Jaguar/Ford added that additional bleeder on the early 2000-2002 cars because air can get trapped in the heater core. They dropped that after the 2003 update but I don't really know why?
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I've not touched any bleed valves - it's a RHD model so has single valve near throttle body - never spotted the one you mentioned near master cylinder.

We simply swapped expansion tank - perhaps some air did get into system which might be the short fading whistle sound when engine is switched off.

I drove it yesterday - system was pumping nice hot air through cabin - all OK?

 

tbird6,

We didn't drain the whole system.

I plugged the upper hose when old tank was removed, which stopped any movement.

 

On the early cars you really should be using both bleed ports. Here is the best diagram I have to show where to look for the heater bleed port which is kind of hidden and the hose is usually tucked back into all the rest making it hard to see.


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Thanks,

I definitely didn't see that valve when the tank was off.
Will have a look.

 

I believe that valve/hose should have been part of the tank assembly, unless you just purchased the tank. (I thought the hoses come as part of the assembly but I could be wrong)

 

100% not part of my expansion tank.

This is a MY2000 3.0 v6 - RHD.

I'm pretty sure there is different methods for LHD and RHD models.

There are 2 outlets on the tank - one upper, one lower. Nothing else plugs onto the tank. (apart from cap).

 

All of the above people are right, search for the bleeder tbird6 mentioned I have always bled that way on equiped cars, driving the car and continuously topping up is another way if not overheating. Can take a long time though. Mike.

 

JagMike,

There is nowhere on my tank for a third pipe connection.
I think we're getting wires crossed somewhere...

tbird6, is this 3rd bleed valve-pipe section seperate from the expansion tank itself - where does it lead to?

Thanks,

 

As I recall it's not on the tank. I expect JTIS shows it