So as i promised, here is my "how to" on fixing the dreaded code for the TPS. Ive read some things on here about it, and i tried it my own way, and its been code free for 15 straight days.

ive got a 2005 S-type R, and that is what i wrote this how to for.

I started by removing the air filter assembly, opening the two clips that hold in the filter, removing it, then un plugging the MAF. I then removed the strap holding the air filter box to the plastic inlet tube. Before i removed the plastic tube, i disconnected the balve cover breather from the intake and set it aside. After that i pondered for a while on how to remove the aluminum plenum. There is one bolt centered underneath the front that youll have to remove, its kindof a pain, but with the right wrench, 10mm i think, and some small fingers, i was able to remove it fine.

The next part gets tricky....

Where the plenum meets the throttle body up in the back, underneath the cowl, you will see a rubber flexible coupler. There are two threaded straps holding this on, one upper for the plenum, and one lower, holding the coupler onto the TB. i used a REALLY lond screwdriver to remove these with patience. Now you will be able to remove the plenum and and the rubber coupler, and set them aside. You will now have just a TB on the top of the intake. Holding the TB to the manifold are four 10mm bolts, positioned evenly around the TB, they are several inches long and not ultra tight, so be careful not to drop them into the engine or engine bay. Also attached to the TB are two plugs and two coolant hoses. The plug on the passenger side is the TPS (throttle position sensor) and on the drivers side is the actuator for the TB valve. Un plug and label these connectors, then move them out of the way. The two coolant hoses are a pain to take off due to lack of space to work with, i unbolted the TB, unplugged it, and pulled it closer to me to get the coolant hoses off, a flat head screw driver does the trick in popping off the hose clamps, dont let them fall BTW... Once youve done that, you will be able to remove the TB. Underneath the TB is a thin metal gasket, be sure not to lose it, as its very light, easily bendable, and hard to see in darker places.

OK

Now that the TB is out of the car, your ready to start the fix. i couldnt for the life of me find 5 point star bits to remove the TPS, so i un screwed the 4mm bolts with a pair of good pliers, and replaced them with phyllips head 4mm bolts, and lock washers from the hardware store for ease.

Once the TPS is out, take a good look at how disgusting it is inside, mine had dust, sand, and calcium deposits from the hard water we get here. i sprayed the hell out of it with electrical contact cleaner, sanded all the contacts with 800 grit, then re sprayed it to clean it out. i lety mine sit overnight to dry, but this probably isnt necessary. While youve got the TB out, you may as well clean it since its probably filthy too. When i re installed the TPS, i used a thin layer of sensor safe permatex to completely seal off the contact between the TPS and the TB. Dont forget the small vent holes on the bottom either. When i put it back onto the TB, i used lock tite on the bolts to ensure it stayed on, then i covered all the cracks with the sensor safe permatex, to ensure a water tight everything tight seal.

The only problem i ran into with re installation was getting that really thin gasket back on straight underneath the TB. What i did was put the bolts back in and put the gasket on the TB, the bolts held it in place long enough for me to start threading them into the intake manifold. the coolant hoses are easy to get back on if youve got small hands, and so is the plenum. when i put it all back together, i noticed the breather that goes from the drivers valve cover to the intake wasnt very tight, so i sealed it up wtih some hi temp sensor safe permatex. this might have also caused the lean condition i was getting in addition to the TPS code.

Like i said, i havent had a single problem since, and the throttle response is now lightning fast and very smooth. i couldnt be happier!!! i hope this helps.

 

kudos and nice write up Jagoff! Thanks for sharing.

 

Hey.. by any change you take pictures?
so that we get a better idea... thanks

 

I actually did not take any pictures, it wasnt untill after i was done did i realize that my camera was on my tool bench and i didnt use it... im sorry guys.

 

yo just emailed you for some tips...thanks!!

 

Great information and write-up. But I guess my gorilla-sized hands will stretch this project out into an all-day task for me if I ever have to perform it....

 

i took my sweet time and made it a two day project, just to make sure the permatex dried all the way before i started it

 

no problem! anytime anyone needs help with this, lemmie know!

 

Jon,

I think you'll be fine. Back in January I did IMT o-rings and plugs on my daughter's 3.0L. Throttle body is up front. I'm a small-hands, small-feet-er ....even so I think it was so simple, even a caveman (or a gorilla!) could do it, so-to-speak. I was hoping for pics, too 'cuz I was wrestling with where all this stuff was that I obviously missed....then it finally hit me, "It's an "R" and all my experience is with the 3.0)
Rick's vacuum quick-connect on the back of the manifold went smoothly, but I actually removed the TB because of the difficulty I had with its mate on the front, where you could see and access it much easier! Anyway, apart from that vacuum fitting, I think the 3.0L throttle-body is a breeze. No TPS issues on either 3.0L thus far, even though the TPS connector shattered into 7 pcs upon removal during that evolution. Daughter is in Monroe, LA where there is no shortage of moisture, and thus far, no reported issues. I believe it is at least a 4.2L if not only STR problem.

 

Jagoff, your write up def goes in my "favorites" file in the event....

 

Zane,

I did the short-route IMT O-ring replacement in January 2010 on my wife's S-Type. My huge hands made it tough, but I eventually got it done. Had a small-handed friend helping me, he offered to do the tough work buttoning up the tuners back in their chambers once I had the new O-rings on them, but I was stubborn and said no, I started it and I'm going to finish it. Wasted a good half-hour or more fumbling around trying to get my fingers back there to start the bolts properly and then tighten them. I should have let him finish up....