The "dsc not available" with the light is displayed on my dash screen. I purchased a carsoft i930 scanner and read dtc c1287, "pedal force switch circuit failure" with the screen data "booster solenoid switch failure". Please help me to verify where this switch is located on my 05 s type 3.0 l automatic. There is contradictory direction about which pinpoint test to follow in the workshop manual information and multiple names given for switches and sensors; at least to a backyard mechanic like me. Thanks in advance.

 

I think the switch you need (the pedal force switch) is on the brake booster unit in the engine compartment.
It has a black six way connector. (FH56) This connects to the active brake booster solenoid and the pedal force switch. The conectors can get corroaded and cause a fault so have a good look at the contacts on both parts and look for any damage to the wires.

The pins you need to test the switch are 2 and 5 these should be connnected when the brake pedal is not being pressed and open circuit when it is being pressed.
(Pins 1 and 5 should be connected when the pedal is pressed and open circuit when it is not.)
(Pins 3 and 4 are for the booster solenoid and pin 6 is unused.)

You need to follow pinpoint test I on page 467 in the workshop manual:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...M-Workshop.pdf

If you need the electrical manual here is a link:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...cal-2005on.pdf

If you find the fault and fix it you may find that you need to recalibrate the control module using the jaguar software.

I do hope this helps.

Mellow

 

This is why I love this site. Thank you so much for quick reply. I will be working this after I return from an out of town trip next week and let you know what I find.

 

+1 on performing the pin tests suggested above.

In addition, check the battery voltage across the terminals with a voltmeter. With the ignition in the OFF position for at least ten minutes, there should be a minimum of 12.6 volts, if not, charge the battery at 2 to 5 amps for eight hours and retest it. If the voltage is below 12.6 volts, the battery should be replaced as a failing or weak battery can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins to surface.

 

UPDATE: When I returned a week later I ran the first pin point test under section I, measured the resistance between pin 2 and 5. The resistance of 280 ohms far exceeded the 5 ohms limit indicated. I then tried to clear the codes and do another code read. I now have codes B2736, C1286, C1287, and C1288. The reader data stream indicates a "booster solenoid brake switch failure. There are so many pin point tests associated with these codes I do not know where to start. Also, the battery is new as of April 2019 and has been kept on a battery minder while I was gone. Voltage has varied little from 12.7 v to 12.4 v. I have also cleaned the connections at the wheel sensors and the booster; FH11 and FH56. These sensors and pins were very clean with no corrosion. In addition I cleaned the connections at the module; FH 103 and those pins were also very clean. Brakes seem to work fine although I have not been able to determine if the ABS system is functional. There are no other warning lights. I may just live with what I have got rather than start throwing parts at it especially if I have to have the module reflashed. I appreciate any additional comments.

 

C1286 and C1287 are both related to a brake booster fault and pinpoint test I.
You have already established through this test that you have a possible active booster failure.

B2736 is a pedal travel sensor circuit failure. You need to carry out pin pint test K on page 469.

C1288 is a fault on the booster pedal force switch circuit. You need to carry out pin pint test J on page 468.

See what results you get from these two additional pin-point tests.

As mentioned low battery voltage can give phantom faults.

If there is no ABS fault warning, then the ABS is almost certainly working.

Mellow

 

One other thing I should mention is that the C1287 DSC fault has been known to be caused by very old partly contaminated brake fluid.
When was the last time your brake fluid was replaced? It should be done every 2 years.
Changing the fluid has been know to cure this fault, it is a bit of a long shot but it may be worth a go if know your fluid is very old or you can not find a record of when it was last done.

Mellow

 

Thanks for input. I haven't quit. Just waiting for a break in the weather. I did flush and replace the brake fluid this past year and the fluid is clear. I will update when I have more test results.
JRHJR

 

What is your method for the fluid change.....wanting to do mine but never replaced brake fluid..... everything else but that

 

I suctioned as much fluid as possible out of the brake fluid reservoir and refilled to the max level with new fluid. I then bled each wheel individually starting with the one that is most remote from the abs module. I bled at each wheel until the fluid came out clear and then checked the reservoir to add new fluid to the max level as needed. But; be careful about the proper fluid (dot 4 in my case) as it varies with the particular vehicle and you cannot mix the various dot mixtures. Also be careful not to introduce air into your system. I had lots of input from an experienced helper also. I found numerous generic instructions on the internet but would caution you to research this forum for many additional hints and cautions. It is not hard to do but easy to mess up if you do not have experienced help. Good luck.
JRHJR