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I need some help with a cooling issue. Apologies if i have posted this in the wrong place. I recently bought (three weeks ago) a 2005 S Type R with 93k miles and since I've had it, after a few miles the radiator fans start running hard. At tick over from cold there is no such issue, which I assume is because the engine isn't under load,
I had a small split in a heater pipe which was weeping and was causing the coolant to drop, this has now been fixed and the coolant level is stable and there is no and hasn't been any white smoke from the tail pipes, however as stated, the fans run hard after even a few miles when the engine is up to temp.
The ambiant winter temp in the UK is about 4 degrees C at present and I have used a thermometer and checked the fluid in the expansion tank whilst the fans a running and it is 95 degrees C, which should be the right temp for the thermostat to open, all pipes seem warm (the ones I can reach) although some of them are firm (not soft to the squeeze test) so there is pressure.
Any Idea's? I am going to remove and test for a bad thermostat this weekend and I have already decided to put an upgraded radiator in, but should I be worried its something more serious like a head gasket failing? and looking to trading standards to get my money back from the dealer?
I don't panic easily, but the thought of head gasket going pop is enough to concern me and if this is happening now mid winter, with the summer temp it is likely to much worse.
I need some help with a cooling issue. Apologies if i have posted this in the wrong place. I recently bought (three weeks ago) a 2005 S Type R with 93k miles and since I've had it, after a few miles the radiator fans start running hard. At tick over from cold there is no such issue, which I assume is because the engine isn't under load,
I had a small split in a heater pipe which was weeping and was causing the coolant to drop, this has now been fixed and the coolant level is stable and there is no and hasn't been any white smoke from the tail pipes, however as stated, the fans run hard after even a few miles when the engine is up to temp.
The ambiant winter temp in the UK is about 4 degrees C at present and I have used a thermometer and checked the fluid in the expansion tank whilst the fans a running and it is 95 degrees C, which should be the right temp for the thermostat to open, all pipes seem warm (the ones I can reach) although some of them are firm (not soft to the squeeze test) so there is pressure.
Any Idea's? I am going to remove and test for a bad thermostat this weekend and I have already decided to put an upgraded radiator in, but should I be worried its something more serious like a head gasket failing? and looking to trading standards to get my money back from the dealer?
I don't panic easily, but the thought of head gasket going pop is enough to concern me and if this is happening now mid winter, with the summer temp it is likely to much worse.
I need some help with a cooling issue. Apologies if i have posted this in the wrong place. I recently bought (three weeks ago) a 2005 S Type R with 93k miles and since I've had it, after a few miles the radiator fans start running hard. At tick over from cold there is no such issue, which I assume is because the engine isn't under load,
I had a small split in a heater pipe which was weeping and was causing the coolant to drop, this has now been fixed and the coolant level is stable and there is no and hasn't been any white smoke from the tail pipes, however as stated, the fans run hard after even a few miles when the engine is up to temp.
The ambiant winter temp in the UK is about 4 degrees C at present and I have used a thermometer and checked the fluid in the expansion tank whilst the fans a running and it is 95 degrees C, which should be the right temp for the thermostat to open, all pipes seem warm (the ones I can reach) although some of them are firm (not soft to the squeeze test) so there is pressure.
Any Idea's? I am going to remove and test for a bad thermostat this weekend and I have already decided to put an upgraded radiator in, but should I be worried its something more serious like a head gasket failing? and looking to trading standards to get my money back from the dealer?
I don't panic easily, but the thought of head gasket going pop is enough to concern me and if this is happening now mid winter, with the summer temp it is likely to much worse.
a few things to consider;
Blue chemical co2 indicator kit from ebay 5pounds to check for gasket leaks
looks good.
there is one MAJOR thing when picking S type radiators which mention XF compatibility too:
transmission fluid cooler inside the side-tank can be linear or cylindrical.
S types fluid lines have longer ends than the XF ones, and if you get the cylindrical cooler installed in the radiator, they wont fit all the way in without some custom extensions:
Extension installed Linear cooler which is deep enough, but also demonstrating the extensions You can see the cooler inner wall there. These s type ends wont fit (seal not in the pic)
Early X200s had a separate radiator between the main radiator and the air conditioning condenser for both gearbox and power steering fluid cooling. If one has an early X200, they should make sure the radiator is correct for their VIN without any fluid lines.
CHR Racing in the Czech Republic do a full aluminum / -minium radiator replacement for the S Type R.
I don't think it is upgraded in terms of performance, but hope fully its a stronger build and its Alu so it shouldn't rust or get bulging bottom through age (it happens to us all!)
Last edited by Burty; Jan 10, 2022 at 04:20 AM.
Reason: add images
So I took the thermostat out over the weekend and did the less than scentific test of boiling the thermostat in a pan and it appears she is a little sticky. I ran the car up to temp and checked the temp of the coolant when the fans were coming on, it was around 90-95 degrees C, at this temp in the pan, the thermostat had barely opened a mm, at boiling + it had opened maybe 2.5 mm, I'm happy to be corrected but i think this is reacting a little slowly, so I think there is a chance that the fars are kicking in quicker than the thermostat is opening. With the touch test (also scientific) the pipe was also barely luke warm on the thermo-side when the fans were running hard.
Whilst this is not conclusive, i'm going to take a punt on £55 for an OEM from Jaguar rather than keep guessing.
*UPDATE*
Whilst this is not conclusive, i'm going to take a punt on £55 for an OEM from Jaguar rather than keep guessing.
are you talking about a new thermostat?
Iirc, the oem ones were Motorcraft. I dont know if ford kept the company alive.
Gates, Mann, Mahle are good oem quality manufacturing companies.
Buy one that opens 1*C earlier
i personally got a mahle one since I couldn't find gates in stock
btw,
be careful what radiator you buy
since you said you have a STR 2005, i assume its zf6hp26 automatic tranny, and that one has the ATF cooler in the sidetank?
Last edited by elDariusVargas; Jan 10, 2022 at 05:32 AM.
Iirc, the oem ones were Motorcraft. I dont know if ford kept the company alive.
Gates, Mann, Mahle are good oem quality manufacturing companies.
Buy one that opens 1*C earlier
i personally got a mahle one since I couldn't find gates in stock
btw,
be careful what radiator you buy
since you said you have a STR 2005, i assume its zf6hp26 automatic tranny, and that one has the ATF cooler in the sidetank?
Yeah a new thermo from Jaguar, it is a Gates I believe as Jaguar have said the original was discontinued and this is their listing for an alternative. Euro car parts have a thermo for £7, I'm half tempted to put that in for a day to see if it makes any difference? Not for a long term solution, but if I'm still having issues its on to the next possible culprit?
I checked the rad and apparently it is compatible with the ZF auto.
So I took the thermostat out over the weekend and did the less than scentific test of boiling the thermostat in a pan...
This is a very good test. I have learned the hard way to always test a new thermostat before installation. I have found several bad thermostats this way. The brand didn't seem to matter, OEM, Motorcraft, Stant, etc. I've found the accuracy to be so sporadic that I won't install a new one without testing it first. I always test the old one, too (like you did), to get an idea of how it was behaving.
Yes check for the transmission cooler lines in that new radiator. Your pictures don't show it but they could be there. Really looks like a hi quality radiator too. No plastic side tanks to leak or that crummy pressed together seam with an O-ring to leak.
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