I had an intermittent cat below efficiency code for bank one. The passenger side. But mostly the loud whistle noise because i knew that it was not right

 

I would like to travel back to the original point of the forum. The bad noise my engine makes when starting. I have uploaded a video to YouTube because I know some of you cannot watch it. This is from about 3 weeks ago. Cold startup 10am after sitting 13 hours.

 

sounds to me like a couple of cylinders were flooded .... possibly even on the verge of hydrolocking .....

 

what?! How would that even happen? Flooded with oil?

 

Was there any colored smoke coming from tailpipes

 

During startup not sure but like anything over 4500 to 5000 rpm during driving it has blue smoke.

 

I really am losing hope here. I fixed the starting issue. The car starts every time. I am still getting the very loud rattling noise on almost every startup (unless driven within 30~ minutes). I still feel like the timing chain/ tensioner is the issue but if you guys have any other thoughts on what the noise could be please let me know.

 

Have you considered drinking heavily? Normally I don't recommend this, but maybe a little liquid cheer would help. Offered in the kindest, gentlest manner possible: Quit scaring yourself!



See my comment above about scaring yourself. Whether you realize it or not, you have made some stellar progress. Can you please elaborate on how you fixed the starting issue? Just trying to get an idea of what was happening and if the starting problems and noise were related.


Lots of suggestions in this thread about how to isolate the noise. Have you tried any of them, and if so, what were the results?

For example, I'm still inclined to think you've got an oil filter with either a missing or defective check valve. Have you gambled the time and money on a quality replacement filter yet? Let me reiterate not to install the same brand again. I saw some other good suggestions, such as a rattle from a catalytic converter. Have you looked into any of the suggestions offered?

We'd like to see this remaining problem resolved, but you've got to keep us in the loop.

 

Well i originally fixed the issue by a new coil pack and spark plug. I decided not to replace all of them and turns out that might have been a dumb decision because the car didn’t start for the first time in 3 weeks today. My luck 🙄.
The noise has only got more profound and happens in shorter intervals now (even when car is warm some times) I’m aware the car is leaking a very big amount of oil, currently trying to find the leak but in the mean time I have been topping off. That’s the reason I haven’t changed the filter yet. Anyway it’s not the cats I did the test the guy mentioned and nothing happened. Car is yet to give me a useful code. I get a knock sensor code every once in a while, always happens during a pretty rough start and after rain, it’s came on 3 times total. Car starts like absolute crap in the rain. I used a mechanic stethoscope or whatever they call it and the bank 2 timing cover definitely has a rattle noise even when running and warm. Which is why I have brought up the tensioners more than once in this and everybody says they are “bulletproof” in this car. Not loud enough to be heard during revving or driving, only on startups.
The one thing I did notice is that I can hear a very short (~.5 second) rattle, occurs when the key is turned halfway and I assume it’s nothing but if the noise was to happen when starting I can definitely see that noise being similar but shorter.

 

In case some of the OBD monitors are unset (if so you'll have P1000) then each one unset suppresses many codes.

Depending on your car Jaguar list them.

 

The only code is p1111 which I’m aware means monitors are done testing or whatever?

 

Yes, that's good.

If there's some problem still but no other codes then it's something the car can't diagnose.

There are not many like that, e.g. a vital sensor (IAT, ECT, fuel sensor, etc) that reads wrong (OBD can read them). Or a big enough air leak. Hunt for info!

 

Definitely track down the source of the leak. If it's an ambient leak (such as where the oil pan meets the block) this won't affect the oil pressure, as long as the pan doesn't run dry. However, if it's a pressure leak (such as where the oil filter is attached) that could certainly reduce available oil pressure downstream. Keep reading for why that's so important.


YUGE clue here. Figure out why and take care of this. Under normal conditions, rain should not affect the affect the engine. Most likely rainwater is collecting somewhere it doesn't belong due to a bad seal or missing baffle. Didn't you previously mention a leak into the trunk? That could be affecting the electronics back there. Or maybe water is collecting in the spark plug wells and keeping all cylinders from firing properly. Also look at the connector to the PCM.


Back to the oil pressure thing. The tensioners operate on engine oil pressure. Track down the oil leak and correct that. Replace that poor oil filter with a quality brand. I'd even go so far as trying a thicker grade oil.



Another YUGE clue. No idea what this could be, but certainly track this down in case it's related. You'll likely need a helper to cycle the key while you poke around under the hood.


Notice how none of the actions suggested above require much money. Maybe $40 total for a new oil filter and heavier oil. The rest is all diagnostic work.

 

The oil leak is definitely not the oil pan, it was sealed with some kindled sealant because that’s where I thought the leak was originally. I’ll keep poking. The trunk seems to have a very very very minor leak maybe a drop of water per time it rains.im gonna attempt an oil change after the leak is fixed. What oil should I use though? Is it safe?

 

Had a thought on something you could do to help isolate why the engine is so hard to start after a rain. The problem is fairly consistent, right? On a dry day, try to duplicate the fault conditions as much as possible, such as parking in your normal spot so the car is tilted in the same direction. Turn a garden hose on the front of the car to simulate a heavy rain. See if that makes things worse. If so, open the hood and see if water has collected anywhere it shouldn't. Pay attention to the spark plug wells and the connector to the PCM. If no change, soak the back of the car and look in the trunk, etc.

If the garden hose makes no difference, does the problem only occur after driving in the rain? In other words, is it fine if dry when parked and then it rains? That would point to the tires spraying water up somewhere and causing trouble. Or maybe your normal route takes you through some big puddles? Maybe the water spray doesn't cause a problem with the engine already running, but affects the next start?


I don't have the owner's manual, but believe you can safely run 10W-40. I think you previously mentioned something like 0W-20, which is VERY thin. Anybody got an owner's manual handy and can verify 10W-40 is good?

That's what I run in my '02 V6 and it's got over 400K miles. In fact, if I run anything thinner, I start getting VVT codes. Much like the V8 chain tensioners, the VVT actuators are operated by engine oil pressure.

Now of course I can't guarantee a heavier oil will take care of a possible (but still unconfirmed) tensioner problem. But dang, it's so easy to try. You gotta try something and this is about as easy as it gets.

For the oil filter, make sure it's specified to have an anti-drainback valve. Most brands probably do, but it's certainly worth making sure. Take a look at the listing on RockAuto:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...il+filter,5340

Both the MANN W7197 and Motorcraft FL2021 mention the valve.

 

Mann is good like Karl say. Also wix and baldwin. Baldwin you can get online and use wix to crossover

 

5W30 most likely

 

the driving in the rain thing seems more probable than just sitting in the rain, I did see a little more water in the trunk, not a whole lot but there was a drip over one of the parking module wires. Last time I had the check engine light come on it was after driving home in the rain. I’m currently using 5w30, not 0w-20. I have also notice the noise is continuing to get less loud on startups, but now I can hear the noise when driving. It doesn’t seem nearly as loud but it just sounds like a tapping noise when accelerating or idling. Cannot hear it when cruising but accelerating I’m able to hear a noise. I was wondering if I would be able to hear an exhaust leak in that situation? I thought I might have had an exhaust leak because I’ve hear a very steady tapping noise that almost never went away, but I haven’t been able to hear it when driving until now. The only reason I went to thinking it was an exhaust leak and not a chain noise was because of the very steady rate (like 3 times per second completely evenly timed). The one thing I would like to say is that car wasn’t at warm temps yet, I had let it warm up for a few minutes but i was running a little late for work. It wasn’t even 1/8th of the way warmed up yet but once I got to work when the car was warm the noise had pretty much gone away.