The only other problem this care ever had is we have to replace the RF low beam head light bulb about every month or 2 and the left rear tail light. We took it to a shop and he went through the wiring and never found any loose/bare wires but that has been going on for over a year so I don't think that could have anything to do with it.

My mom did talk to a friend of hers who has the exact same car and it started having the exact same problem. They replaced the battery and it kept happening. They took it to the Jaguar dealership and they told her it was the transmission so they got rid of it. That sounds like total BS to me because in no way, shape, or form would a bad transmission keep the car from turning over so I'm not putting too much stock in that.

I'm sure it's probably some stupid little something that may have rattled loose or rubbed some insulation off a wire somewhere but I don't know where to start looking being that there are no fuses blown. She's been driving it all week and it has only died once.

 

Yes, let's get real. The tool is mandatory for any sort of electrical or electronic troubleshooting. You're shooting in the dark without one.

As advised way up above by at least three of us, get the codes read at a car parts stores or drop $10 and buy an elm327 on eBay. If that's not acceptable, take it to a garage and get out your wallet.

 

I'm a truck driver so I am gone a lot so you'll have to excuse me for not having the time to drop everything and go get the car and take it to a parts store or go buy a code reader. I'll go get one when I have the time. I still don't understand how a code reader will help when there are no active codes for it to read. All of this back and forth is not helping the thread and I appreciate your advice but you started with a person attack right out of the gate while other people were trying to get information from me and help. So lets get past this so that maybe getting my problem fixed will help others in the future and help grow your forums.

Do these keys have a "chip" in them or resistor? The more I read responses on here and the more I think about it, it's starting to sound more and more like an ignition problem or possibly the key if they have a chip or resistor.

 

Thing is, we know the cars well. You want to check for codes to save a TON of time. If there are some the diagnosis & fix goes an entire different route to if there are none. You can order a tool and let it arrive by mail if you can't pull over in your truck. Or you don't have to ask on here, I suppose, if you don't like honest helpful replies.

Meanwhile, read up on PATS. Also, grab the free downloads such as JTIS.

 

The whole reason I asked on here is because of what you stated. Because yall know the cars well. And I do like honest and helpful replies like most people have given me. I just don't appreciate someone jumping on here and saying "People are trying to help but you have to help yourself". I didn't ask for anyone on here to come by and fix it for me. I just wanted ideas on what it could possibly be. It sounded a bit disrespectful to me. And I understand that codes save a lot of time. I had a code reader for my previous pick-up truck but it was model specific and from previous experience, there would be no codes if the check engine light wasn't on because the codes would not be active. So if I were to go hook one up to the car right now it would not show any codes because there are no active codes. I'm not sure if these cars log inactive codes but nothing else I have worked on does except 18 wheelers which is why I didn't go out and get a code reader in the first place. I'm off this weekend so I'm going to take it and get the codes read and see what that does. If it does show something I will look it up and update the thread with the results.

As far as the PATS goes, I turn the key on and it lights up red for a few seconds and then goes off and stays off and from what I read on here, that is normal. I don't know what JTIS is or even what it stands for so I will read up on that as well. Thank you for the info.

Edit: I just saw the Acronym link in your sig and found what JTIS is. I will download as soon as I can.

 

When the comment you are not helping yourself is used its refering to you not doing one of two things. Getting the codes read by oreilly or autozone or you not purchasing an OBD scanner.

Believe me when I tell you that the scanner will become your best friend. These cars are still built like the old Jags of yesteryear. They have a lot of issues and the code reader will help you a lot and will help speed up getting the correct advice on the forums.

Knowing the codes is paramount to giving you the best and correct advice here.

I bought a really good one on Ebay that was $200.00 in the stores and I got it for less the $100.00! Of course I went for a more expensive model.

Get those codes ASAP!

 

Codes remain stored for a long time, as required by your laws, unless cleared by a tool or removing the battery. The MIL goes off after a very short time of the code not recurring. So yes you can read any codes that are there, long after they flagged.

Your PATS sounds OK so that means the key is recognised and similar good stuff. Maybe starter motor is bad?

 

Not true. Codes remain stored irrespective of whether the light is illuminated or not.

Again- people are trying to help but you're fighting all attempts tooth and nail.

 

Look, sir. I've already asked that this thread stay on topic by talking about the car. Also, I have already said that I am taking the car to get the codes read when I have a chance this weekend.

 

Thank you. Hopefully we can make some progress.

 

I have a 2003 s type it won't even crank there is a light that's flashes on the dash, it will not go into any gear. Please help

 

I'd be suspecting a very flat battery, bad power to starter or damaged starter but you may as well check whether that PATS light is flashing a code when you try to start.