Just looking for confirmation here from some of our gurus. The passenger side is blowing cold air with the A.C. turned on, but the drivers side center vent is only tepid and the far left vent is blowing hot. Do I rip out the DCCV and stick in a new or do a bit more checking?

 

DCCV plus climate control repair.

 

Did you perform a search? There are several threads on this subject you may want to read through prior to replacing parts.

 

I've done quite an extensive search concerning this issue and it is still a bit unclear as to what parts to change. It might be the DCCV or possibly the control that opens and closes the vent door(s). HOT air is comming out of the far left vent with the A/C on and the right side emitting COLD so that I'm thinkin it should be the DCCV, but I'd like to be real sure. Was hoping that someone might have a definitive answer before I have to start rippin parts out.

 

A simple test is to clamp off the hoses from the dccv to the heater and see if everything goes cold.
Do you get cold both sides when you first start up from cold?

 

I'm going to try clamping off the DCCV heater hoss as you suggest "Norri" and thanx. That should be a real indicator, and just to confirm, cold air comes out of the left vent until the engine warms up, and then hot.

 

I'd put money on the valve in that case, but if you clamp the hose you can stay cool until you are ready to change it.
If you are going to delay it may be a good idea to unplug the valve to save the CCM if it isn't damaged already.

 

That wouldn't work if the valves aren't not getting ground like mine. My valves are good but were passing hot water because no ground to energize the solenoids. So I grounded the outer two wires (the center is 12v+ constant) and my air is cold. If no 12v+ on center check fuse #32 in right side floor fuse panel, bottom row 4th slot from last on right.

 

Of course it will work, the idea of unplugging the valve is to save damage to the CCM if it is still good.
It doesn't sound like yours is.

 

Went down that same road recently... Definitely need a new DCCV be careful in changing yourself the hoses (depending on age) tend to have some dry rot and can easliy lead to an additional few 100 bucks to replace as well...

Also if you have the LCD Nav in your car, there will be a circuit board (mounted in the dash behind the glove box) its a little bit of a pain to get out, but it have burned through the circuit on the board. Dealer wants $1600+ for a replacement board. There are several companies that you can send it to and they will repair for you or... Get yourself a piece of phone cord (or similar small gauge wire) and an emery board.

1. File down an are just above the burn mark and one just below the burn mark to expose the circuit.
2. Take a small soldering iron tin both ends of the wire (you will need a bout 1" of wire for this can be longer if easier to work with)
3. Solder the wire to the board where you exposed the circuit be careful not to melt the plastic back into the site or you will have to clean again...
4. Cover with some electrical tape and re-install

VIOLA!! ICE COLD AIR ALL VENTS!!

Cheers!!

 

Just did the CCM repair as well.

The previous owner replaced the DCCV, but that didn't fix the hot-air, and didn't know what else to do.

I took the CCM apart, and found two burnt traces, a multimeter is definitely handy here to help determine just where the trace is good and where it goes bad.

Soldered some bypass wires across, reinstalled and hot-air problem is FIXED! Car blows super cold air again! Very happy!

If you're uncomfortable doing the repair, I'm sure any local electronics shop or electronics repair shop would be able to tackle the repair.

Pic of mine all done.