2001 S-Type 4.0 with 48,000 miles. The J Gate works fine out of Park and goes into Reverse and Neutral easy...a slight amount of force to go into Drive and it WILL NOT go into 4,3 etc. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Howard

 

Sounds like a selector lever cable is in your future??

bob

 

Bob,
Thank you very much. I am hoping it is Just the Selector lever cable. That won't be to difficult to install.

Howard

 

What happens when you try to move the lever to the side from D across to 4? Does it move at all? Does the lever feel like it's hitting a hard stop, or does it feel springy?

The reason I ask is the shift cable does NOT move between D and 4. There's a microswitch that electronically switches from D down to 4, but there's no physical movement of the cable.

The J gate mechanism has a funky plastic block that slides fore and aft, and is prone to breakage. Normally when it breaks, the shift lever moves freely but it doesn't drive the cable. I'm wondering if it could have broken in such a way that you can't engage the left side of the J gate.

If the plastic block has failed, there's an upgraded metal replacement available:

XR817754R

Search for this number and you'll see it available from multiple sources.

 

Karl,
When I try to move the shift liver from D to 4 the liver will not go into 4 and as I push on it there is a spongy feeling. You are correct I cannot engage the left side of the gate.
How would I disassemble the J Gate/console area to determine if the plastic block is broken?
Thanks,
Howard

 

It's not too difficult. First, remove the console shroud for access:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...install-93398/


I didn't see it mentioned in that thread, but there's a little gotcha when removing the shift knob. The wrench flats at the base of the knob are on a separate lock nut. The first time I tried removing the knob, I thought the knob and these wrench flats were all one piece. First you need to unthread the lock nut down, away from the knob itself. Then the knob unthreads easily.

Once you have the console shroud removed, you can see the shift cable on the US passenger side. See the pics in post #4 of the thread linked above.

The cable end snaps onto a protruding stud that slides fore and aft with the shift lever. This stud is part of the white plastic piece that breaks. This plastic piece rides on a round rail inside in the shift lever assembly.

Watch this video. Note how the white plastic block slides fore and aft. It shows the plastic block partially broken, where the shift lever grabs it:



The video may be slightly confusing, because the guy is moving the shift lever side to side, showing how it engages the white plastic piece. Normally when the J-gate is fully assembled, you can't move the lever sideways except between D and 4.

Here's a picture I robbed from eBay. The red arrow shows where the cable attaches. The circle shows where the white plastic usually breaks:





Things get a little confusing when you shift over to the left side of the J-gate (gear 4 and down). That same plastic block has two slots to engage the shift lever. When you move the lever side to side, one slot engages and the other disengages. It's very ingenious, but a little hard to explain. If the plastic block looks okay, make sure it can travel all the way aft to the D position. I suspect you've got something jamming the travel. Once in D, make sure you can move the lever to the left, and you will see the lever disengage the top slot and engage the bottom one.

More details of the block here, showing the difference with the upgraded version:

https://www.uroparts.com/uro/inventory/show/7931


It's been a while, but I don't remember it being a huge problem to replace that sliding block.

 

Karl,
Thank you sooo much for this information. I should be able to fix this problem thanks to your help.

Howard

 

Once you have good access with the console shroud removed, troubleshooting should be fairly easy.

If you don’t see anything obvious, concentrate on why the lever is hard to move full aft to D. Pop the cable off the side of the shifter mechanism to determine if the restriction is in the cable or within the shifter itself.

 

Thanks to all of you for the answers. All good info and helpful. Am having similar problem. First it hesitated going into 'Drive". Cable adjustment helped. Then won't go into 'Drive' at all. Can move selector over to 4th, but very difficult to move back.
The two PDF files were a great help. Unfortunately my problem is I can't get mine into 'Drive'. Other gears okay. Adjusted the shifter cable both directions and rotary switch doesn't appear broken - no help. Starting to think the problem is the inner selector lever (rooster comb), so remove pan again.
Before I remove pan wondering if there's a way to check the Digital Trans Range Sensor bolted to outside of trans.
Thanks for any help.

Rick
2001 S-Type 4.0 Automatic

 

Whoa there, Rick! Slow down!

Before convincing yourself of an internal problem with the transmission, concentrate on why the lever is hard to move side to side between D and 4. Remember, the cable doesn't move between D and 4. For this input, it's just a microswitch in the J-gate talking to the transmission.

With the console shroud removed for access, disconnect the cable on the side of the shifter. See if the lever can now move freely. If not, the problem is in the shifter monkey motion, not the cable or transmission.

OP, any updates with your car?

 

kr98664 - Thank you very much for your caution and advise. Sorry for delay in answering but have been following your advise and removed the J-Gate assembly to check, test, and clean. Once removed and cleaned I inspected everything. Found no problems, stress cracks, or broken nylon shift block. Shifter moved to all positions easily and block moved freely from front to rear fully. Checked micro switch and electric plunger Park lockout switch with multimeter and both checked good.
While cable was disconnected at both ends tried to move full range by hand - Very stiff and difficult to move so removed cable from trans. Noticed the metal bracket that mounts it to trans seemed bent and causing pressure against cable. Straightened heavy metal bracket to a 90 degree angle and it was much easier to move cable. Have been letting very light weight sewing machine oil seep down inside of cable casing. Now movement is much better with slight tension (that may be normal) and full range of movement is about 1 1/4" travel. Reinstalled J-Gate and will connect cable to it today and check movement. If okay, will then connect cable to trans and see where I am.
Note: When removing cable from trans of course had to remove rotary neutral switch and checked it movement. Seems okay as far moving center and can hear click as it passes the neutral mark.
Question: How can I tell what position the rooster comb is in so can move to neutral position to install rotary switch and know I'm in neutral to adjust shifter cable for neutral at J-Gate? Can I count the detent movement by moving lever from side of trans? If so do I start with it all the way forward or backward or just move so rotary switch slips on grooves with it in the neutral mark postition?
Thanks for all your help. Can't imagine how cable bracket might have gotten bent to press against cable.
I apologize if pics are too large. I tried to make them as small a file as I could but don't know how to lower the resolution.

Rick
2001 Jaguar S-Type 4.0

J-Gate in Park position

J-Gate in Drive position

J-Gate in 4th (Sport) position

J-Gate in 2nd (Sport) position

J-Gate with top cover on in Park position

J-Gate with top cover on in 2nd (Sport) position

 

Did you not read that the newer style cable was issued to address the cable faults??
Reusing the old/stiff cable is not worth it for all the work you have done so far.

My first diagnosis would have been the cable check because a TSB was issued.
Jaguar already knew the problem existed.

bob

 

I'm with Bob on this one. The oil you've added? It may help initially, but at some point expect it to gum up and make things worse, especially with the heat from the adjacent exhaust.

Details on the shift cable in the TSB in post #2 above. The TSB includes the part number you will need.

I'd also suggest replacing the plastic block inside the shifter assembly while you're at it. It's a known problem that can leave you stranded. The metal replacement piece will outlast the rest of the car and probably anybody reading this. There's a link with the part number in one of the earlier posts in this thread.

Can't really help you with the NSS on the transmission. I'd guess it's indexed so it can only be installed one way.

 

Front side of NSS/Rotary Switch showing alignment marks and travel limits
Thanks Mr. Motorcarman and kr98664 - I did not see there was a 'service bulletin' and a new style shifter cable for my 2001 Jag S-Type 4.0. Don't know how I missed that Bob, thought I'd read all the posts. Thanks for waking me up. I will order it and continue from there.
I will also follow kr98664's suggestion and order the J-Gate metal block even though mine looks good. At 171,000 miles it surely wouldn't hurt.

As far as the neutral safety switch, it is made to go on the rooster comb shaft in a specific direction. I've read on other posts and threads here that is should be 'clocked' correctly. As shown in my picture of the front side it is marked with "C/L neutral" alignment mark and back and forth travel limit marks.

Update: I put the cable back on the J-Gate (not connected to trans) and adjusted it for travel from Park, Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. The shifter would move the complete range but when moved to 4th, it would not travel at all to 3rd and 2nd. I understand the cable doesn't move when going from "D" to "4th", but it does travel going to 3rd and 2nd; which mine wouldn't move at all up from 4th. I had Sport button on and micro switch engaged. May also order that switch, depending on cost.
At 73 on SS and disabled vet cost is a factor.

Thanks to both of you for the great help.

Rick
2001 Jaguar S-Type 4.0
1988 Jaguar XJ40
2003 Chevy 3500 4X4 dually DuraMax w/Allison 5-spd trans
2003 Toyota Avalon
1996 Chevy Tahoe 2-Dr 4X4 350
1996 Buick Roadmaster SE 350 LT1

 

I'm a little confused here. How does the shifter behave by itself, with the cable disconnected there? Does the shifter move through all positions with the cable out of the picture?

Are you saying the shifter only acts up when moving the cable, even if the other end is still disconnected from the transmission? If so, the cable is the problem.

 

Yes - Exactly as you explained. Cable disconnected from J-Gate and shifter moves to All positions. Connect cable to shifter still disconnected from trans and it moves from "P" to "R" to "N", and "D". Connect cable to trans and it's very difficult to move from "P" to "R", more difficult to move to "N", and will Not move to "D"!!

I took your advise and am ordering the new improved cable and J-Gate metal block.

Thanks a bunch.. Rick
2001 S-Type 4.0
1988 XJ40

 

I did go back to see your post about the upgraded cable - post #2. I had seen that post from you and printed both PFD files. Now I've read it again.
See what happens when you're 73 - memory slips a gear....

Thanks for reminding me. I am ordering the new cable.
Rick

2001 S-Type 4.0
1988 XJ40

 

What if the only problem is that the shift lever will not go into second gear (which it does in the last photo from Dusty-D?
I have a 2001 3.0 with this problem.
Coincidentally the starter will not work when the car in in Park, but it starts ok if the car is left in Neutral after stopping. I think there must be a switch somewhere which detects the shift lever position.
Thanks for any advice

Regards
Glenn

 

Stretched shifter cable?

 

Careful, Glenn. You are trying to breathe life into a 6yo thread.
Smarter to start a new thread with info specific to your car.

Yes, there are a series of microswitches off the side of the sliding block inside the selector box.
If you search across all JF forums that share the J-Gate (regardless of 5spd, 6spd) you will find all you need.

This is a widely and well known failure . . . ham-fisted auction staff have produced many a bargain buy.
In my own case, a rare XJ8 with "broken gearbox" that I picked up for scrap value!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...earbox-246896/

Best wishes,