jakesdad 2005 s type fuel tank cap seal help please
I, too, have a leak (from the transfer pump side of my tank) in my 2005 s-type, so I need to remove it and replace seal, ring, or whatever is the issue. I do not know how to remove it and was hoping you would share how yours was removed. Thanks.
On mine, I have a local indy mechanic, general purpose automotive repair shop that I have been using for years. I took my car to him and he ordered the seal for the fuel tank pump and did the job for me. A rather easy job I just didn't want to tackle because I get nervous around fuel vapors. The back seat easily lifts up with release of a couple of latches you can feel under the front of the seat. Prop the seat up and the fuel pump is right there under the passenger side. I paid $150 for the job.
Hi Westie
You may have seen this post, but if not, here is the link.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...l-band-221643/
The poster (nse1355) used tin snips to cut off the clamp (post 19). But reading all the posts it seems possible with the right tool to remove it. It is worth reading as it explains that the clamp has a plastic cover and underneath is a 7mm socket and flat head combination that is difficult to get at. I have the older model S Type and mine was different so this is not from any first hand experience on my part.
I hope it helps
Paul.
You may have seen this post, but if not, here is the link.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...l-band-221643/
The poster (nse1355) used tin snips to cut off the clamp (post 19). But reading all the posts it seems possible with the right tool to remove it. It is worth reading as it explains that the clamp has a plastic cover and underneath is a 7mm socket and flat head combination that is difficult to get at. I have the older model S Type and mine was different so this is not from any first hand experience on my part.
I hope it helps
Paul.
wonderful jag engineering!! the screw clamp has a breakoff bolt head! It shears at the correct tightness! I guess the mechanics are too stupid to torque them (4nM). However, I cut a slot in the broken portion so I could get a screwdriver bit on it - then the remainder of the tin (it was fairly soft) broke off of what was a normal hose clamp hex screw! That allowed me to use a 1/4 drive ratchet, laborious as could only get a couple of clicks at a tiem, but it came off finally. The plastic cap was split. The cap is outrageous at $130 to $180.
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jdoc84
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Oct 15, 2012 06:28 AM
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