Locked out if car...TWICE now.
Hey gang, today I was locked out of my 2003 S-type for the second time since I bought it used is 2010, with the key in the ignition of course. I only have one set of keys but now looking into an extra fob just for just so occasions. Luckily I was home and was able to get into the driver door with a coat hanger and special wedge pry tools. My carport is attached to the house and I repositioned the car to wash it so naturally I left the key in the ignition. When I went to open the door, as soon as I lifted on the door, she locked me out. The last time this happened was about five years ago. Anyone have an idea what goes one when this happens? Also, any suggestions on a fob that will work correctly and program that won't break my bank? Thanks in advance.
Hello Jimmyjo,
On most modern exotics, multiple keys or fobs, stored separately, are essential to solving the problems you are falling into. On some, you can get a "dumb" key cut which will open a door, but not start the car. Not so these Jaguars!
Your car originally came with 3 . . . 2 masters with fobs, and a separate valet key (green). Again, most used car buyers do not now this and never get the extra keysets. Many have no idea there is a mechanical keyhole release under the boot (trunk) plinth for emergency access. They are then appalled at how expensive are replacements, without realising the key used is a TIBBE which is fiendishly difficult, time consuming and expensive for even professional locksmiths to copy cut and encode . . . and that is why many high-end cars used them during that era.
One of our JF members (IIRC in X-Type forum) who has taken up the art by becoming a pro locksmith who specialises in cutting and coding these keys, did so because most in the trade will not touch TIBBEs any more . . . and that is in populous USA! If you doubt this, try locating one.
Expensive or not, I consider anything less than the two masters is playing with fire, and I am surprised that your coat-hanger trick did not set off shrieking alarms! You left your key in ignition. What happens when, one day, you have a flat battery? My advice is to bite the bullet, get a programmed 2nd key from your dealer, and store it at home (changing its internal button cell each year.
ITMT, console yourself with knowing we have all had our seniors moments . . . but it's smart not to keep tempting fate.
PS . . . I would love to see a Sticky for all new members "Insist on getting ALL the keys BEFORE you buy."
Cheers,

On most modern exotics, multiple keys or fobs, stored separately, are essential to solving the problems you are falling into. On some, you can get a "dumb" key cut which will open a door, but not start the car. Not so these Jaguars!
Your car originally came with 3 . . . 2 masters with fobs, and a separate valet key (green). Again, most used car buyers do not now this and never get the extra keysets. Many have no idea there is a mechanical keyhole release under the boot (trunk) plinth for emergency access. They are then appalled at how expensive are replacements, without realising the key used is a TIBBE which is fiendishly difficult, time consuming and expensive for even professional locksmiths to copy cut and encode . . . and that is why many high-end cars used them during that era.
One of our JF members (IIRC in X-Type forum) who has taken up the art by becoming a pro locksmith who specialises in cutting and coding these keys, did so because most in the trade will not touch TIBBEs any more . . . and that is in populous USA! If you doubt this, try locating one.
Expensive or not, I consider anything less than the two masters is playing with fire, and I am surprised that your coat-hanger trick did not set off shrieking alarms! You left your key in ignition. What happens when, one day, you have a flat battery? My advice is to bite the bullet, get a programmed 2nd key from your dealer, and store it at home (changing its internal button cell each year.
ITMT, console yourself with knowing we have all had our seniors moments . . . but it's smart not to keep tempting fate.
PS . . . I would love to see a Sticky for all new members "Insist on getting ALL the keys BEFORE you buy."
Cheers,
Thanks CAT..... I watched a guy on YouTube talk about the key issues, Watch Here-
Would still like to know what causes this lock of the car with the key in the ignition though....
- the car believes it is about to be stolen . . . a key question is whether it self-locks despite no action by you, or its locking is triggered by you lifting door handle? Please don't tempt fate by repeating your key-in-ignition trick to look and listen . . . I ask only if you remember;
- and, even more regardless . . . if Curiosity kills your Cat, rely on JF to put it back!
Accordingly, from our S-Type Sticky . . . 'HOW TO' Guides > Locking/Security > Key Remote . . . <https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ed-know-87749/>
Much of this can be condensed into a 3 page section (p209-11 for X200 S-Type) of the 355 page official Jaguar Training Manual (INTR 05 en 08/2005) courtesy of another member, Gus of JagRepair.com . . . <http://www.jagrepair.com/images/IntroToJaguar/INTR%20TECH_2005.pdf>
Despite these much valued resources, and despite the challenge of translating into my native Strine tongue, I found some good stuff in your YouTube clip but, as shown by above, there are ample (and trusted) results here on these forums. That is not to say everything here on a public forum is free of opinion rather than fact but, if something is wrong, it will be called out quickly.
Turning to some great news, one of our JF members, [Sone], aka Keith, in Nevada, turned to pro locksmithing over precisely these issues regarding the TIBBE keys used by Jaguar of that era. Keith advertises in our JF Marketplace . . . <https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/market/227433>
His timely service and prices to other JF members appear very reasonable (as per post #1), but you should confirm. His final post of just weeks ago, shows he is still active. I have not dealt with Keith, but intend doing so for extra keys to my 1998 XJ8 Sport.
I hope this has helped you and any others suffering from the 'no backup keys' virus.
Cheers,
The question having come up, YES, I am definitely still doing this (I even get referrals from Jag and Ford dealers). Dealers and nearly every locksmith in North America really, really REALLY doesn't want to mess with these. Consider that a 6-cut key has 24 positions that must be cut, each position will have one of 4 angles machined into the key, and messing up any one of them means discarding the key and starting over with a new blank.
This is why these keys cost so much more than older keys. I've been told that my prices are far below the handful of other locksmiths who do these, and that's because it's kind of fun helping fellow Jag owners. I've run into some people at car shows who had gotten keys from me.
To address the original issue here:
Depending on the year and model, fobs may not be available -- the easy way to tell is to look at your key and see if it is a 6-cut or 8-cut type. The 6-cuts are available (but you want to avoid fobs and Tibbe keys from ebay).
HOWEVER, the real crisis is if you lock your ONLY key in the car. To get the door open, you don't need a fob, you just need a properly-cut key. For that, I only need good pics of the working end of your existing key, I can cut a mechanical key just by knowing the code, and you will have it for less than $50.
Therefore, I suggest that EVERY owner shoot some good pics of the cuts on the key, and hang onto the pics in case you ever need keys done.
If you want a key that will start the car, you either need to send me a working key, OR you can take the mechanical key ("shell" or fob) that I cut and have a local auto locksmith clone your transponder chip. This latter way is far and away safer than entrusting your one key to the Post Awful, Oops or FedWretch.
This is why these keys cost so much more than older keys. I've been told that my prices are far below the handful of other locksmiths who do these, and that's because it's kind of fun helping fellow Jag owners. I've run into some people at car shows who had gotten keys from me.
To address the original issue here:
Depending on the year and model, fobs may not be available -- the easy way to tell is to look at your key and see if it is a 6-cut or 8-cut type. The 6-cuts are available (but you want to avoid fobs and Tibbe keys from ebay).
HOWEVER, the real crisis is if you lock your ONLY key in the car. To get the door open, you don't need a fob, you just need a properly-cut key. For that, I only need good pics of the working end of your existing key, I can cut a mechanical key just by knowing the code, and you will have it for less than $50.
Therefore, I suggest that EVERY owner shoot some good pics of the cuts on the key, and hang onto the pics in case you ever need keys done.
If you want a key that will start the car, you either need to send me a working key, OR you can take the mechanical key ("shell" or fob) that I cut and have a local auto locksmith clone your transponder chip. This latter way is far and away safer than entrusting your one key to the Post Awful, Oops or FedWretch.
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