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Loose/Sloppy Ignition Cylinder Work Around???

  #1  
Old 12-17-2018, 12:11 AM
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Default Loose/Sloppy Ignition Cylinder Work Around???

Both scottjh9 and myself are having the same basic problem, although his seems to be a little greater.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-maybe-211809/

We have an apparent loose key in the cylinder that does not make contact all the time and as a result I will get a "park brake failure" as he does.

I can move the key to get all beeps when the door is open and one beep when the key is inserted by no further unless I push in tight or slightly turn the key to the left or right. When turned on, the car will give a steady beep when I have the door open but if I screw around with it a touch it will generate my park brake failure when on so it must be doing when hitting a bump or my accidentally hitting the keys ect. when driving and thus when my yellow warning comes about. This is happening with both my keys and the valet key.

Are there any suggested workarounds or anything that can be done short of getting a new lock cylinder at some $6-700 bucks?

I have always kept the cylinder sprayed several times a year with lubricant like a silicon.

There is a TSB about the cylinder, but for a different reason, but would this help at all or any adjustment that can be made, once we pull this out. (see attached)
Finally and maybe a silly question, is the loose key condition caused by the lock cylinder or the lock switch?

If either is changed is reprogramming required or is the key recognized as valid by other parts of the system?
Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
TSB JTB00106.pdf (1.02 MB, 10 views)

Last edited by jazzwineman; 12-17-2018 at 12:04 PM.
  #2  
Old 12-17-2018, 02:11 PM
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I think this tsb applies to that little flap in the switch...I don't think that affects the key being loose....I may be wrong but at least the tsb shows a lot of detail in working with the switch in case a new tumbler is needed to correct the loose key issue....I know if the flap does not return to it's home position the vehicle still thinks the key is in and will not lock electrically and the modules will stay activated and drain the battery
 
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:05 PM
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Default SOLUTION

This worked for myself and the other user who commented scottjh9.It appears the weakness in my cylinder is near the beginning part and does not hold the key in all the way that it should- which is why no beeping when the door is open. If I push it slightly forward then I get g beeping. When driving and I hit a large bump, then I get the stupid light sometimes.

So I said- what the hell and put 2 tight wraps of black electrical tape on the key below where the cut is made and low and behold, my situation is fixed. Even when in the cylinder with the engine on or not, I have zero problem and the tape is not scraping anything and would seem to hold fine. So the black FOB now has a black color up to the cut of the key and everything is working fine, bumps and all or taking my hand and trying to force the issue by moving the key in the cylinder. I suspect we all get quick and lazy when turning the car off and withdrawing the key on a downward ark and weakening the front part of the cylinder.



Tom in Dallas

/Plano
 

Last edited by jazzwineman; 12-31-2018 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 12-31-2018, 04:56 PM
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Worked for me too and mine was worse.... apparently I was wrong about the flap in my previous post...it does clamp the key in position otherwise the tape would not make a difference....thanks Tom for thinking outside the box
​​​​​​
 

Last edited by scottjh9; 12-31-2018 at 05:00 PM. Reason: Addition
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Old 01-01-2019, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman View Post
So I said- what the hell and put 2 tight wraps of black electrical tape on the key below where the cut is made and low and behold, my situation is fixed. Even when in the cylinder with the engine on or not, I have zero problem and the tape is not scraping anything and would seem to hold fine.
Wow, that's great you were able to figure out a fix. I offer you a tip of my orthopedic hat.

I do wonder about the durability of the tape. Perhaps if it fails, you could try some heat shrink tubing instead? Just a thought, it might hold up better. Two styles are available, plain or adhesive-lined. I bet the adhesive-lined stuff would last a long time.
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by kr98664 View Post
Wow, that's great you were able to figure out a fix. I offer you a tip of my orthopedic hat.

I do wonder about the durability of the tape. Perhaps if it fails, you could try some heat shrink tubing instead? Just a thought, it might hold up better. Two styles are available, plain or adhesive-lined. I bet the adhesive-lined stuff would last a long time.
I will try and see, but the general concept saves a bunch of money and time and unless you have the IDS, having to play around with the (*******)ship of which I would give the car away before I did that again..

TBB
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by kr98664 View Post
Wow, that's great you were able to figure out a fix. I offer you a tip of my orthopedic hat.

I do wonder about the durability of the tape. Perhaps if it fails, you could try some heat shrink tubing instead? Just a thought, it might hold up better. Two styles are available, plain or adhesive-lined. I bet the adhesive-lined stuff would last a long time.
Good thinking Karl...will get some today at AutoZone
 
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