06 S type R won’t shift out of park, no brake lights. Checked all fuses, tested both switches (brake light and cruise nominal) still won’t allow shift from park. I have used the bypass switch under the shifter lever cover to be able to move car but I have to figure this out and repair it. Any help is greatly appreciated and if I missed any needed info please just ask.just looking for direction as where to look next, have excellent knowledge of vehicle electronics and excellent troubleshooting skills…just FYI.

 

Forgot to mention that when I tested switches, tested using continuity, one switch was normally open until pedal is pressed and the other is normally closed until pedal was pressed. So switches tested good unless I’m missing something.

 

Checked the 2 bolts (8mm hex head) under the car which secure the shift cable to the trans side?

 

What happens when you try to move the shift lever?

Does it move freely as if not connected? If so, check the two small bolts on the side of the transmission where the cable attaches.

Or does the lever move maybe an 1/8” or so and hits a solid stop? If so, that’s the brake interlock not releasing. Check the operation of the brake lights. IIRC, the same switch controls both the brake lights and the shift interlock.

 

that sounds right. One is brakelite switch and other is connected to cruise control. Dont know which controls what. I had to replace both. If you go that route make sure you get good replacements. The rem. Rear electronic module controls the actuation of the lights i think. Check that out too. These cars are very picky about bulbs too. Some may fit but not be exactly right

 

the cable is good and secured with both bolts. I bypassed it with the little switch under the shifter cover and was able to drive the car. What is this IIRC switch and how can I identify it then test it?

 

Alright, making some progress. The problem seems to be the shift interlock is not releasing. Next we will have to determine if the solenoid has failed and is not responding, or if it’s not receiving the command.


Sorry for the confusion. IIRC is shorthand for If I Remember Correctly. In the meantime, have a helper watch the brake lights while you step on the pedal. I’m 99% sure the same switch controls the brake lights and shift interlock. I’ll double check the wiring diagrams tomorrow when I have better access.

 

Wiring diagrams are here, top of the page:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

The shift interlock solenoid is located in figure 04.1. On the early models, the brake switch controls a relay that controls the solenoid. On late models like yours, it's more of an indirect connection. The brake switch supplies brake on/off status to several modules. I don't know the exact details, but it appears at least one of the modules communicates the status via CAN bus to the shift lever module, which then energizes the solenoid as needed. Hopefully there's a connector allowing you to electrically isolate the solenoid from the shift lever module for testing.

I'd still begin by checking the operation of the brake lights. If good, that tells us the switch is working and the fuse is intact. If no brake lights, check fuse F35 in the Primary Junction Box. This is a small fuse panel inside the cabin, outboard of the US front passenger's feet.

 

LOL…IIRC.
brake lights do not come on when brake is pressed. Switch tested good. Solenoid is definitely not firing to release the shifter from park. Have tested all related fuses, hell I tested every fuse in all 3 panels just for good measure.

 

Hot on the trail now. How did you test the switch? By measuring continuity between the terminals? Sometimes, you run into a condition where the switch contacts are barely making contact, due to corrosion or arcing or who knows what. Unfortunately, an ohmmeter draws so little current a bad switch can test as good, but not carry enough juice when the circuit is loaded.

Is there enough room to backprobe the switch connector with the plug still hooked up? If so, measure for voltage at both terminals. One side is hot battery power via fuse F35 in the Primary Junction Box. The other terminal should have battery power when you press the pedal.

If no room to work there, you can measure voltage downstream. Look again at the wiring diagram here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

See figure 08.3 for the switch and brake lights. Note splice CAS22 between the switch and the RECM. I don't like this aspect of Jaguar's wiring diagrams, as it is not very clear how many other wires are connected at this splice. This can throw off your troubleshooting. If you control-F the PDF for "CAS22", you will see the other connections from splice CAS22:

RECM figure 08.3
Parking Brake Module figure 05.5
Engine Control Module figure 03.5

I would suggest picking whichever module has the easiest access and measure for voltage there. Ideally the RECM would be best, if possible.

 

It is easier to remove the switch to get to the wires. That is what i did to replace my switches

 

Had another thought. If not too difficult to access the connector (remove the switch first?), connect a test jumper between the two wire terminals. This would simulate depressing the pedal and making the switch. The jumper could be as simple as a paper clip. Don't let it touch ground, as it will have battery power present.

If the brake lights now illuminate, the switch is bad or possibly out of adjustment. If still no brake lights, there may be a broken wire somewhere.

 

Was your statement there about the brake lights this whole time? First sentence of the first post…

 

I can testify that getting the brake switch out of adjustment is very easily done. It is also very easily fixed, if you know how. A few months ago I accidentally knocked mine out of adjustment when working in that area, then had to turn to this forum for the reset procedure.

 

and how do I check or do that?

 

I had a similar problem - rain got in through the open sunroof and shorted the solenoid that releases the parkbrake and shifts you out of park. You can get a used shifter assembly on eBay for about $200. You might have to have it reprogrammed at the dealer. Good luck.

 

If I remember correctly:
1. Remove the switch.
2. Pull the plunger part of it out as far as it will go (it has serrations on it; you may hear a ratcheting sound).
3. Refit the switch (you may hear a ratcheting sound again).
4. Press, then release the brake pedal.
5. Check your brake lights come on and off correctly.
That’s it. It should have automatically ratcheted itself to the correct position.

 

check this out...if i remember right you twist the switch one way or the other to remove....they have to be timed also....use a business card as a spacer on the cruise deactivation switch so it energizes a hair after the brake light...i had a small write up on that but cannot find it....if they are not staggered you will get a dtc saying brake switch a/b correlation

 

Yes you are right about them being a twist fit. I didn’t know about the timing, but you are most likely right. I only did it once and it was months ago. I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast, but I think it may have been your post that gave me the procedure.

 

Hmm, time to put on my orthopedic thinking cap...

The brake switch testing good - was this checked in situ? Or was the switch checked by itself on the workbench? If I'm reading correctly between the lines, it's kinda sounding like the switch is good but was out of adjustment and not being properly actuated by the pedal.