Boys and Girls,

My '02 V6 is doing its best to drive me crazy. She spent almost 3 weeks at the transmission shop, with that issue hopefully resolved. The car started and drove just fine for their test drive, until it blew a coolant hose. I had her towed home and took care of that yesterday. The tow truck driver briefly ran the engine (30 seconds?) when backing the car down from his tiltbed truck, so I know things were good two days ago. But when I tried to start the engine last night after my cooling system repairs, the starter would just crank and that was it. My scanner showed zero fuel pressure.

Any thoughts on what would cause this? A few quick things I did for troubleshooting, but it was late and I was cold/tired from previous work, so called it a night:

1) I had listened to that bore on the forum, always pleading to charge your battery. What a putz! Anyway, I had the charger connected overnight and the happy little green light was illuminated.

2) The scanner shows about 175 RPM while cranking the starter. This means the CKP sensor is sending a valid signal, right? I know a bad CKP sensor can inhibit the fuel pump, but I think the RPM indication meant it was good.

3) I had removed the throttle body while replacing the bad hoses. Two connectors there, which I confirmed were reseated. Also had the IAT sensor disconnected on the intake duct, confirmed reseated properly

4) Battery was disconnected while working on engine.

5) Confirmed PATS indicator was behaving normally. No stored faults.

6) Raised the rear seat bottom. Could not hear the pump run.

7) Fuel pump relay passed the click test. This tells me the control side of the relay was receiving power via the inertia switch and fuse F4 in the Primary Junction box.

8) Confirmed battery voltage present at socket #3 of the fuel pump relay. This tells me it is receiving power via fuse F17 in the trunk.

9) Swapped fuel pump relay with a known good relay for the gear shift interlock. No help.

10) I have not checked fuel pressure yet with a test gauge at the injector rail.

11) No OBD codes stored, but this may not mean much as the engine has not started after reconnecting the battery.


That was all I did before calling it a night. Was hoping to find something simple and be back on track again quickly, but no such luck. How likely is it the fuel pump just up and quit like that? Am thinking of checking continuity through the pump from the connector under the seat. If good, next thought was to supply battery power directly via this connector and listen for pump. I'll do this before opening the tank, and will make final connections well away from the pump just to be safe.

Anybody got a good how-to for replacing the pump on an early model? I found something for late models, but think there are a few differences. Found a couple of videos on YouTube, but not the most helpful stuff.

 

You are sure the battery is good?

Dr Jag has a video, did you see that one? Sounds like a plan, powering the pump directly before pulling it out.

 

This one?:



This was probably the least bad video I saw. Good info about the clips holding the fuel lines. Had to cringe, though, when he used a hammer as a drift on the clamp ring, hitting the steel heads together in the presence of fuel...

 

That's the one, I meant to post a link but my old timers disease kicked in. I'd have gut my lug skelped if I'd hit two hammers together when I was an apprentice.

 

With cars of this vintage that are unused even for a short period of time, I've seen the fuel pumps seize and no amount of urging gets them to run again.

You can remove the module and replace just the pump in about 30 minutes. Remember to lightly push whilst squeezing the fuel line connectors then pull straight up and they usually come off without any additional drama.

I find using pliers like these below is helpful to squeeze the fuel line connector without causing damage to the locking mechanism.

 

I wonder if the incline of the tow truck stirred up some long forgotten sediment that got into the pump

 

Personally if she was mine, I would give a blast of starting fluid at the throttle body, and have a helper turn the key. As Paul Harvey would say, "now you know the rest of the story".

 

I had the fuel pump go after a period of unuse on my earlier model. After all the other checks, I guessed I would have to extract the pump and test/replace. It is a doable job with a few things to be careful about - especially the ball bearing non-return valve!!!

Maybe this could help from the "other" forum: https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...inners.130129/

 

Debating whether to just part her our or leave the fuel tank open and toss a highway flare in there. Tried swapping out the fuel pump and things did not go well. Just to add to the stress level, my wife has been been dropping major hints it's time to retire the old girl...

Those two quick release couplings on top? Could not get them to budge, even though the locking collar spun freely. I reviewed the previous video showing how they came apart. Pushed in, pulled up, held my tongue just right, but no joy. I was using my hose grip pliers and slipped. This punched a hole in the side of the larger elbow. Couldn't believe it.

Anybody know if a repair kit is available for these couplings? I found a used set on eBay, but am not sure how I'd splice them to the existing lines. The lines are semi-rigid plastic somehow swaged to the elbow couplings. There's not much room to work above the tank and I dread having to drop the tank. The following image is shamelessly stolen from eBay:

 

I did find $1.37 in change under the back seat:

 

I had to make similar repairs on a chevy cavalier. Same fuel line type and swaggeg fittings. Found what i needed at autozone. Two kits and a fuel line i used for splicing. Used a heat gun to soften the line then jammed stuff together. Supposed to use hot water but that was not an option. Good luck my friend. The. "old girl " is worth saving if it helps any.

 

Unfortunately, the fuel lines are NLA from Jaguar, so a repair of some sort is what needs to be done. I've never had to deal with broken lines, but I'm sure it's been solved already with a permanent fix. Perhaps there's a YouTube video?

 

Found this link describing my exact problem, other than the extra ventilation hole I added to one elbow:

https://www.contour.org/forums/threa...removal.41701/

Today's plan is to cut off those collars as described and hopefully release the lines. I've ordered a complete pump/sender assembly as it will have new connector sockets. Per the link above, the existing sockets may be just fine without the troublesome release collars. In that case, I can always return the new assembly.

Next crisis will be dealing with the punctured elbow. I did find a NOS set of lines on eBay. Looks like it's two lines that cross straight over to the other side of the tank. Don't know if it's possible to snake them across in situ, or if the tank has to.come down. The other option is to rob the fittings but am leary of the swaged connections.

 

Did this kit have the same type of smooth elbow into the pump module? Or was it a GM style end fitting to be spliced to the rigid fuel line? I haven't found any type of repair kit with this miserable Ford elbow end fitting.

 

Hi Karl,

I feel your pain. It seems like all the plastic fuel, coolant and air pipes get so brittle that all you have to do to break one is look at it.

If you need more length in the hose for your repair, you can use Scott's heat-gun trick to install a gasoline-tolerant hose barb like these from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com). For extra security you can add small fuel-injection type hose clamps.




Cheers,

Don

 

Don, I could kiss you! One concern, though. Do you have a mustache? I do, and mustache-on-mustache would be a deal-breaker for me. If one of us needs to shave, we can negotiate that when I get there.

I had been thinking a splice wouldn’t work as there is little room the way the elbows are pointed. But your comment gave me an idea. I could loop a short length of injection hose and point the elbows in the other direction. This might just work. Fingers crossed!

 

Okay, only partial success, but am making progress. Followed the directions to break off those miserable collars and I pressed down directly on the sleeve. Piece of cake. Worked like a charm. Wish I knew about that trick yesterday.

Now to figure out how to replace the elbows. Discovered tool marks well below the damage I caused yesterday. Looks like somebody else was in there before I got the car and ran into similar trouble. It appears they got the tube out about 1/4” before it jammed like Chinese finger cuffs.

More details and pics to follow later. Got to take advantage of the daylight while I can.

 

A great idea in principle but don’t forget where you are working on; an open fuel tank. Don’t use a heat gun anywhere near fuel or gas fumes unless you like being part of a pyrotechnics display!

Remove the fuel line and flush out any residual fuel in it with water before using a heat gun.

 

That's great advice! While the blower fan in my heat gun seems to disipate fuel vapors without igniting them (so far anyway!), you're absolutely right that it's much better to be safe than incinerated or disintegrated!

Another solution I should have thought to mention is the Dorman fuel line unions, which don't require any heat, just nice square cuts on the ends of the Nylon lines. They make them for 5/16" and 3/8" lines and possibly other sizes:







Dorman also makes fuel line hose barbs similar to the ones I have gotten from McMaster-Carr:





Cheers,
Don

 

Yeah, I thought about a heat gun for 30 seconds but decided the coverage on the evening news would be somewhat biased:

“Our top story tonight - Good looking but idiotic local man sets entire neighborhood on fire while working on car.”

I did fabricate a simple plate of 1/8” Masonite to cover the tank opening. It’s just a 5-1/2” circle secured by the locking ring. This has made things a little safer, although fumes are likely still present in the lines.

Here’s one of the new fittings I made. The part that plugs into the pump module has the same dimensions. I made the part longer with the barbed fitting to compensate for where I cut the plastic line. Try as I might, I couldn’t release the damaged fittings from the plastic lines:



I soldered the threaded connections to ensure no leaks.

Any thoughts on how to get the barbed fittings pressed into the plastic lines? My current plan is to heat up this hose fid in boiling water, and then quickly insert it into the tube. I also plan to have a rag wrapped around the outside and pour boiling water on it. In theory, this should heat and soften the tube from inside and out. I don’t know if I should try to expand the tubing with the fid. I’m mostly planning to use it to heat the tubing:



I'll preheat the barbed brass fitting before assembly. I can do that away from the car, using the heat gun.

I also plan to install a constant tension hose clamp over the barbed connection.