Jag 2000 s-type 3.0

Will not start, turns over. I have read I think all forums posted about this topic. Have been on this site for many years, just had to open a new account to post now.

Completed/checked

All fuses tested.
Checked relays.
New fuel pump working with 2 sec woosh.
Do not see or smell any gas on lines or seals.
Have 32 PSI at the rail?
New fuel filter
Gas little old but looks ok 1/4 tank?
Sprayed started fluid into intake and it starts. Have spark.

Trans is 100% in park. I moved the gear cable to make sure, bypassed the J-box for now. Had to order a new j-gate as the gear shifter silanode is bad and the j-box frame cracked.
Fob key works.

No fuel getting pass injectors.

I'm down to these items:

New PCM (EPM)? I took out the current PCM and tested pin 1 and 2 to 42 for short. Ground is good. No shorts or open wires. Did not test for pulse. Got loss on this or just my mind at that point. Would like to check a few more tests before I tow and have dealer program used PCM. This is where I could use help.

Fuel regulator? Not sure.

Throttle body? It has a higher than normal, high electrical noise. The in-take flap seems to be holding close tightly. Not sure about this.

Any thoughts? Beside donate and get $500 as a tax write off........

Craig

 

32 sounds ultra low to me. Mine is 55.

If I'm right the fuel pump(s) is/are suspect.

If you annoy the PCM / immo car will go into anti-theft and will need dealer tool. Do not mess with PCM!! Do not try another.

You have nothing that sounds related to most of the things you are guessing at. Leave TB as is.

Read JTIS or desist from messing.

Right now, or a while ago, you have a minor problem you are in grave danger of converting into a major problem........

 

+1 on fried/seized fuel pump. Yes, sometimes they are bad out of the box.

If you installed a used fuel pump assembly or spliced in a aftermarket pump with rubber line tapped into the assembly, not good.

Check your plastic lines coming out of the top of the pump. Push them in (after depressurizing fuel system) then tug them. Make sure they are properly seated.

Finally, check the inertia switch under drivers foot well. Make sure it's not tripped.

Fuel pumps go bad especially if it was sitting unused or constantly run with less than 1/2 tank of gas.

Fuel pressure at rail should be at least 40 psi upon turning ignition to start and between 45 - 55 psi at idle.

32psi is indicative of a crapped out fuel pump, or a blocked line (or line not fully seated on top of pump assembly)

Big +1 - don't mess with PCM you don't want to brick it... It would make your lack of fuel issue a walk in the park

 

Thanks for the info, good tips to the wise.

42PSI or plus. Ok I'll dig back into the fuel side of things again. I did just replace the fuel pump and not the whole assembly. There is a back rubber hose in the tank from other owner I take. All the connections seem tight. Will check

Inertia switch was checked and tested already. Forgot to mention.

Thanks for the input on the PCM.

I'll check my JTIS again, but it was not helping me much, or I was not looking in the correct locations.

So Jag 3.0 2000 has a PSI of over 40. Odd keep seeing 32PSI .

Wish me luck or any other tips.

 

I got another PSI gauge. As I thought I have 45psi on the rail. Holds, no leaks. Other gauge was questionable do to connections.

Im getting No fuel getting pass injectors.

I'm down to these items:

New PCM (EPM)? Agree with you all. Do not mess with. I'm getting spark so I'm sure pulse is fine.

Fuel regulator? Not sure how to test, I guess replace it as a test? The JIST manual doesn't give you a clear test option for this. Any ideas?

Other option, Take off intake and open each injector? Not sure about this one.

Did I say my wife wants the car out of our backyard yesterday. I ask want to keep it.

 

It is not possible all 6 injectors could be clogged?

 

There are anti-theft / immo cases where the injectors are disabled.

 

Additionally, what happens to fuel pressure when you crank the engine? Holds? Goes up down??

 

I'm wondering if the PATS light is flashing a code.

 

PATS. Good one. I will check the RED dash light next.

Engine crank start goes to 45psi. one hour dips down pass 35. 8 hours its very low. I kept the gauge on last night.

Car was driving fine then die in motion twice. It would start each of those time, but its a no go now.

I had a bad J-box at that put and that is why I thought it would not start. But I installed a new J-box, got the shifter to go into P and N etc. That world seems fine.

I had a key issue where sometime when you took the key out the radio stayed on. Fixed that too with powder graphite.

100% gas not getting to injectors.

The PATS I did not know it could cut injectors. I thought it just would no turn over. Never really saw the PATS in action before.

This opens up another world for me to check.

Question, I have been reading on the PATS to see if there is a reset, is there?

 

Start by seeing what it's doing.

 

Is there a code list to the PATS led light on the dash?

 

If it’s the PATS system......key out of ignition....put key in and turn on but do not start........look at theft light....should be blinking fast.....wait 30 to 45 seconds or until it starts to blink slow or goes out.......turn the key off and remove it from the ignition.........wait 15 seconds....turn key on.....do not start....look at theft light.....should be blinking slow......normal mode.....when wait to start light goes out it should start normal

 

Have you got a code or not and if yes what?

 

Hi again.

So the PATS seems to be working. Turn on car, I get a 3 sec solid light and then off. When I alarm, it does its normal 2 flash a sec. I quest that is good news bad news.

I can not see how the fuel rail sensor would stop the injectors from getting gas.

I know the PCM spark is working (sprayed startup into air intake). But everything at this point is coming down to PCM controlling the injectors. Any test? The PCM looks to be in good condition, no water leaks. I did the pin 2 to 47 no open or shorts.

My throttle body has a higher than normal wine coming from it. The air plate is pushing hard to the close position. Not sure if that is normal.

Holds 45 PSI on the fuel.

I guess I'm going to take off the air intake again and look more into the rail and injectors. I goes I should be able to test them.

Any thoughts would be welcomed.

OH and the PATS was a great idea.

 

Just curious - did the car just stop starting up one day, or was it gradually getting worse? What was the last thing you did to the car before it stopped working?

 

I had gear shifting problem for a long time after the transmission rebuilt. I could always get it into park by wiggling it. I have tested the transmission range sensor. I lined the shifter cable. All seems to do well going into park and neutral. Was curious when I disconnect the shifter cable from the J box I can go through the gears. But will not stay in park. Seems like it needs the J box to hold it in park.

Today I took the intake manifold off. Tested each injector and all six spray manually. I have 12 volts at the injectors. I had a hard time measuring ground.

To answer your question. The car was driving fine then once it's stopped on the freeway. Then it did it again and now it has not restarted.

I just bought Cam and crank sensors to try something new. I'm reaching.

Trying to make sure I have everything tested 2 specs before I take it to the dealer for a new PCM

PTS I had high hopes, and the TR sensor. Still could be, but all operate and test ok.

Transmission range sensor was off, so I adjusted those two screws that connect to the transmission. She goes into n and park fine. Just not ure about cable needing J gate to keep it in park. You hear the park lock on the fly wheel engage. Reverse lights come on normally.

Obi-Wan Kenobi you are my only hope.

 

Sounds like you need to replace the shifter cable. They stretch with age.
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