Possibly found an S-TYPE R WOOHOOO
Need to change plugs cops and all filters before it sees a dyno
First issues to fix:
headlight levers are not working
broken adjusters
and a strange gearbox fault error. The mil flashes and gearbox fault pops up if you set the cruise between 60-70 weird thing is... Cruise stays engaged. According to the jam sticker TCM was flashed yesterday and discovered the deLee put a new battery in. Battery is a duralast.
I'm stopping at a mechanic friends house who can scan the tcm so we can pull the codes good thing I got a 5/100k b2b warranty.
Haha not yet. I'm doing 60 mph to my buddies house to fix adjusters and I'm light on the throttle till I can pull the codes just in case worst case senario. Just sucks I got punked by an is250 lowered turbo and sick staggered wheels. It took everything not to mash the pedal
Ok back on the road after that adventure. I have a sticking TC solenoid which explains the poor fuel economy 19 highway 10 city. Mil is caused by low voltage on the downstream bank 1 O2 heating element.
Pulled P0037 and P0741
Pulled P0037 and P0741
After picking through the codes and replacing O2, etc. do hard reset via battery disconnect (disconnect negative terminal, touch to positive for 10 seconds, then let sit with negative disconnected for an hour). It clears adaptive driving, etc. and allows you to teach your own driving style. Don't worry, your ride will re-learn window and parking brake positions within 20 minutes.
Good to hear you got back OK!
The rear O2 may be wiring or connector fault... but is probably the sensor
(Different parts for rear than front.)
They can be very tough to get out!!
If your friend has a borescope or the like, try to see the cat. conv. in the hole when the O2 sensor is out. (I don't know if it's visible but it's worth a try.)
The TC may be bad news.... depends how often it does it.
There's an official way to recalibrate the EPB (in the FAQs / stickies I think but if not then it's in those on the .co.uk forum).
Flashing MIL is misfires. As you're gonna change plugs & COPs, should fix it.
The rear O2 may be wiring or connector fault... but is probably the sensor

(Different parts for rear than front.)
They can be very tough to get out!!
If your friend has a borescope or the like, try to see the cat. conv. in the hole when the O2 sensor is out. (I don't know if it's visible but it's worth a try.)
The TC may be bad news.... depends how often it does it.
There's an official way to recalibrate the EPB (in the FAQs / stickies I think but if not then it's in those on the .co.uk forum).
Flashing MIL is misfires. As you're gonna change plugs & COPs, should fix it.
so I have a BMW and my wife drives the Jag...are we headed for divorce court? LOL. I will sheepishly admit, her Jag has more power and could outrun me any day, but I still love my BMW too. Guess I get the best of both worlds.
Oops only held the terminal for 10 sec went through calibrated epb set clock it
on first take off it shifted at 3k
second 4500
third 5800
four five six bounced off rev limiter
been on the interstate trying to tc lock and unlock and appears to be solid.
No hunting no surging and MPGs are mid 20's
on first take off it shifted at 3k
second 4500
third 5800
four five six bounced off rev limiter
been on the interstate trying to tc lock and unlock and appears to be solid.
No hunting no surging and MPGs are mid 20's
10 sec will be fine. More is kinda an@l
I hope the engine was warmed up before you did WOT runs.
TC should lock up a lot. I don't know how to provoke it to unlock in a predictable way but I'd think low speed it'll be unlocked?
mid 20s sounds OK depending if you were (say) cruising on a level road at any speed above about 45mph when I get 40+ mpg (but mine are British gallons so you'd get 4/5ths i.e. 32 mpg).
I don't know how reliable the mpg will be shortly after battery disconnect - the PCM has to relearn the engine so may not be accurate.
I hope the engine was warmed up before you did WOT runs.
TC should lock up a lot. I don't know how to provoke it to unlock in a predictable way but I'd think low speed it'll be unlocked?
mid 20s sounds OK depending if you were (say) cruising on a level road at any speed above about 45mph when I get 40+ mpg (but mine are British gallons so you'd get 4/5ths i.e. 32 mpg).
I don't know how reliable the mpg will be shortly after battery disconnect - the PCM has to relearn the engine so may not be accurate.
It's actually working fine in sport
in normal mode lock in 6th and it will not unlock until you shut it Down and restart
looks like I'll be keeping it in sport until the warranty is done with the 30 day exsisted prior to contract period
in normal mode lock in 6th and it will not unlock until you shut it Down and restart
looks like I'll be keeping it in sport until the warranty is done with the 30 day exsisted prior to contract period
Ok an update on P0741. Took it to my buddys Tranny shop did flush fill on the tranny and TC bye bye code.
I'm now running a diff fluid then jaguar gold tranny has smoothed out and noticed the car is even more nimble on the throttle
I'm now running a diff fluid then jaguar gold tranny has smoothed out and noticed the car is even more nimble on the throttle
Same question.
It'll help others to know which oils seem OK and be even more helpful if members who do transmission oil changes report back after (say) every 10K miles as to how it all seems.
It'll help others to know which oils seem OK and be even more helpful if members who do transmission oil changes report back after (say) every 10K miles as to how it all seems.
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rusty37
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
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Apr 5, 2020 07:40 PM
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