Hi All-

Driving in traffic today I noticed that while my A/C was working, it was significantly cooler when traffic was actually moving more than 15mph. In slower or standstill traffic it was “relatively” cool, but there was a major difference between the air temp between moving and not moving.

I came home, cranked the A/C and found the radiator fan did not engage, despite the gauge saying the car was up to normal temp. The A/C compressor and all components appear to be working as designed.

I checked around the fuse box and found the 80 amp fuse the owners guide lists, but it did not appear to the blown. If they are relatively in expensive, I may just order one regardless. I kept looking for a simple really to test but read that the fan is actually controlled by the ECU based on data from different temp sensor units,.

My initial google shows it could very likely be the fan controller, which I understand is located on the bottom driver’s side of the fan shroud. During my inspection, it looks like all the connectors are in place and I don’t see any obvious wiring issues.

I dug around in JTIS a bit, but I didn’t find any substantial answers for a path forward, so I wondered if I could pick your brain on this. What is interesting, is the coolant gauge is rock solid

- Should I be able to spin the fan freely when it is powered off? At the moment, I can not move it at all by hand. If so, I’m assuming I stop right here and source a replacement fan assembly.

- JTIS made it sound like you have to evacuate all the AC lines and drain the coolant entirely to disconnect hoses to remove just the fan shroud. Is that really the case? The pictures I was looking at for parts do not really look like they have any place to pass Freon/Coolant through the plastic shroud and into the radiator.

- Knowing what I just mentioned, what would be your next steps?

Thanks in advance!
-G

 

Yes the fan should spin freely. I know there are threads that have the details of removing the fan wothout taking the a/c apart. Maybe the rad tank and a couple other coolant hoses

 

I'd pour a strong cup of coffee (or cheap booze) and read this:

Everything you wanted to know about the '99-02 cooling fan but were afraid to ask

 

Well I wasted no time and tore into this last night. Ended up pulling the bumper off as well, as I plan to retrofit a pair of factory HIDs I pulled recently. I think it was a little easier for me by pulling the entire front bumper off, I was also able to clean everything as well.

Link above was awesome! Super helpful.

Fun fact….naturally once I get it off the blades in fact do spin…but I’m pretty sure it wasn’t working regardless. My guess is the control box is shot. I have a replacement on the way.

Random questions…

Hidden behind the passenger side bumper cover, I found a plugged connector which was just hanging next to the washer fluid tank. I’m guessing this is potentially for a heater unit for the washer fluid? Is that something I could add myself just for fun?

 

When you previously said the blades wouldn't spin: Are you positive you were on the motor-driven blades? With everything installed, you have to reach forward through the fixed vanes of the shroud to get to the moving parts.

You can test the fan by applying battery power and ground directly to the two terminals on the motor. Do NOT test the motor with the blade still attached if removed from the vehicle. It will not be restrained and can do some damage.

If I had to wager on the root cause for a dead fan, I'd go with the motor long before the control module. The motor has moving parts that wear out by design (brushes) versus a solid-state module not prone to failure.

 

I have the extra plug also. I think it for the headlight washer pump if so equipped

 

Good catch, you are correct. The fan is not frozen, but does not move with 12volts applied. Thankfully I didn’t tear this all apart for nothing. LOL…I mean running the A/C on full blast on a 90 degree day and not hearing a fan or feeling a ton of airflow kind of gave it away for me. But I was feeling the back blades that do not move instead of the blades themselves.

 

Like Karl said do a bench test to verify failure. If it passes double check the plug in at the harness for power. When i replaced my radiator i found that paticular plug very corroded when i unplugged it. I have no idea how it was getting power up to that point. Nice tactic by taking the bumper cover down. You can get a good view of hoses and such. Even the sway bar bushes