Hi Chaps,I've noticed that I'm getting a 'droning' noise from the rear near-side wheel when I get any faster than about 30mph. I'm assuming that the bearings have / or are going - but won't be sure until I get her up in the air and have a closer inspection.If the bearing is shot, is there a step by step guide to replacing them? The parts are not expensive, and I've changed bearings before (on my kit car), but that was using brute force, lump hammer and the old bearing as a drift... A walk through / procedure would be great. And I guess wailing on the new bearing with a hammer is out, and the new bearings will need pressing into the rear aluminium arms. That'll give me an excuse to give SHMBO on why I've ordered a hydraulic press. Thanks in advance,Jason

 

have you checked JTIS

 

No -as far as I was aware, JTIS doesn't cover post 2004 models - and my s-type is 2005.

 

More than 95% of what's in JTIS will apply to your 2005 model. We also have a 2005 S-Type, and my six-dollar copy of JTIS has been quite valuable....

 

And if you really want the new stuff, which I doubt you need, subscribe to jag's TOPIX or to AllData or the like.

 

I take it these copies of JTIS are eBay specials? Is there anywhere I can download it from, rather wait or a CD in the post?

 

Maybe this link you help:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...archive-66031/

 

You can indeed purchase the JTIS CD from eBay. You can also attempt to download JTIS from this site. Sometimes the downloads work, sometimes they do not. I went the eBay route, and my JTIS CD has always loaded with no problem on both of the computers I have used it on....

 

Greatoldone, can you post a pic oor 2 of your marlin sportster, i had a quick look at your site but did not find any full pics.

Is it a morgan esq type kit car ?

 

Look through my previous posts (wheel bearing repair) and you'll find a walk through regarding changing the rear bearing. It's not a difficult job. I'm not sure if you should try to press out the old bearing yourself. I have a small press but elected to have it done by a pro. Not expensive (40 bucks total to press out and press in the new) and getting a steel bearing out of that aluminium hub can sometimes be tough. Better safe than sorry.
The bearing on the drivers side is now starting to chug like a steam freighttrain so I'll be going at that one next week. Good luck.

 

Thanks all.

One last question - is there a specific grade of grease I should use when re-assembling the hub / bearing / knuckle? Or will bog standard general purpose do?

Ta,

Jason

666 - Here's some pics:





These pics are quite old, as she doesn't have her windscreen fitted. She's currently in dry dock at the moment after taking a dislike to a diesel spill on the road.

Good news is she'll be back on the road soon, and she'll be painted as well.

 

Right - I tried to change the bearings today, but fell at the first hurdle.

I followed the instructions intone JTIS, and got to the stage where you're suipsed to use a 'special tool' to drive the half shaft out from the hub.

I've tried several times to do this - and each attempt has come no where near shifting it, as in each cash the hub puller I was using failed (broken arms, or in the last attempt with a brand new heavy duty one, snapped the body in two)

So I've had to admit defeat , and reassemble everything.

Those of you that have managed to do this - I'm assuming you didn't have access to this special tool, so whow did you manage to get the half shaft out?

Cheers

Goo

 

Make sure that you remove anything that might retain the hub before trying to pull it off. I just changed the other side (drivers side) yesterday. The hub was quite hard to remove from the shaft on this side as opposed to the pass. side which came off really easily (last year). I'm only using a high quality bearing puller but got it off by hammering on the steel hub and alternatly tightening the puller. It took awhile!
I wonder if applying heat to the steel hub mught help if nothing else works.
I think that it must be the seals for the bearings that are what fall apart and cause the bearings to get contaminated and to fail on these cars.
The machine shop pressed out the old and installed the new. (50 bucks) Very serious pressure on a fairly large press was required to get the old bearing out of the knuckle. I wouldn't try this myself since it is very possible to crack the aluminum knuckle with that much force applied, - so an expert hand is recommended.
Sometimes going back at it after taking a break can be worthwhile.
Good luck.