Hello all,

I bought a S-Type with 160000 miles on the clock and almost everything is fixed so far, except of trouble code 1388 and the fact that the car runs lumplily while idling. I suppose it is due to the same reason.

It has got to do with the VVL, probably clogged. Hopefully not mechanically broken.

So I read every entire post that has to do with this issue and can only thank abonano so much for all his help to other members and silent reader who benefit from his posts like me regarding this issue!

I realized I need to change the oil to 5W20 and need to add one quart of Mercon V ATF.

As I am Europe based, I use liters instead if quarts so how about 5 liters of 5W20 and 1 liter of Mercon V, would this do the job?

Can I go for this product? Meguin Special Engine Oil 5W-20 (Ford WSS-M2C 930-A Ford WSS-M2C 925-A)

Before I do that I add engline flush to the current oil and press gas for 20mins while idling, correct? How many RPM should it be? 2000? How much engine flush should be added?

What else can I do to get my car running properly? Btw, I read trouble codes with Jaguar software (IDS) and this is the result:

B2477 b2477 module configuration failure
U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault; U1027
B1676 battery voltage out of range
P1388 variable cam timing over retarded (bank #2)


Thanks for everyone who can help.

 

Clear codes. Which comes back first? Do they all?

Note this is a 3.0? Don't often seem to have genuine VVT problems. Could yours be the false-flagging in the TSB?

This looks the same post as on UK forumexcept on there you say it's using a lot of oil. I reckon that is the MOST important thing to fix!

 

I already cleared them and these were the remaining or back-coming ones.

You are right about the oil, it consumes a lot. So I either need to go for the 20W50 or the 5W20 + Mercon V. I really hope brutal or abonano will answer this thread they seem to be genuine pros when it comes to issues like this.

 

Battery voltage should not be out of range. Other faults are dubious when voltage is known bad.

Something is very wrong if it's using much oil and changing the oil spec sounds wrong.

 

Another vote for fixing the low voltage error first. You can't trust any of those codes until the car is operating with full voltage. You could have a weak alternator or a marginal battery.

You said the dealer read the codes they should know that the battery voltage is key before doing any other repairs?

Have you measured the voltage with the car off and then with the car running? These two numbers can tell you a lot.
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Honestly, I bought the diagnosis tool and read it all by myself.

I think it might be important to say that a LPG installation has been fitted a few years ago, but before I read codes I reset the ECU and drove the car for a while on petrol so I could be sure the LPG fuel didn't cause any errors.

 

Hi, just adding my $0.02 here on this.

I would also get the battery issue sorted first like JagV8 and tbird6 already pointed out.

The other codes seems unrelated to anything out of the norm.

Regarding the VVT issue. Could possibly be the "false flagging" issue but if not - I would go the route of:

Engine Flush - Cold engine, fill crankcase with entire container - leave in for 20-30 mins at idle (no gas)

0W20 or 5W20 regular oil - subbing 1 lt of oil for Dexron IV or V trans fluid.

Drive as normal - might take a while for the oil/tranny fluid combo to work the gunk out of the tiny VVT passages....

Good Luck.

 

Thanks again Anthony. Just bought two packs of engine flush (says it is good for 4L of engine oil, should I use 1 1/2 packs then?). 5W20 Oil was ordered on the internet and will arrive on monday, hopefully. ATF does my indy tech already have in stock and a new oil filter is on its way too.

Do you think this will solve the problem of oil starvation or do you have a second idea what the cause could be?