s type fuel tank
Need info please. On a 2005 s type, the fuel tank sits inder rear seat. On my car, the fuel pump is located under a rubber boot seal on rear passenger side. The rear driver side has a similar rubber boot seal which when removed, has a "cap" on top of tank with what looks like a nipple on top going nowhere. When I top off this tank, liquid fuel is dripping under the driver side rear seat. I can't see wet fuel there but it is stained and I highly suspect that cap seal is leaking. Can someone elaborate on what that driver side cap is on the driver side of fuel tank? Thanks
Under rhe black cap drivers side rear is tje fuel sending unit. Jpycesjag had an issue with the gas gauge. I replaced sending unit, a green larger o-riing (which just might be your problem) and a break off screw clamp that holds the seal to the sender and tank.
if you advance search "fuel sending unit by joycesjag" you will find a couple posts o e with the break away lamp and o-ring.
if you advance search "fuel sending unit by joycesjag" you will find a couple posts o e with the break away lamp and o-ring.
Under rhe black cap drivers side rear is tje fuel sending unit. Jpycesjag had an issue with the gas gauge. I replaced sending unit, a green larger o-riing (which just might be your problem) and a break off screw clamp that holds the seal to the sender and tank.
if you advance search "fuel sending unit by joycesjag" you will find a couple posts o e with the break away lamp and o-ring.
if you advance search "fuel sending unit by joycesjag" you will find a couple posts o e with the break away lamp and o-ring.
BTW....I am now wondering if that gas tank leakage could be the instigator of the 0174 and 0171 lean codes? Yesterday I also got a code for small evap leak and note to check gas cap and piping.
Last edited by jakesdad; Jan 26, 2026 at 11:42 AM.
The wires between fuel pump and sending unit are located inside fuel tank itself. Check the link provided for part numbers back in the day and where I purchased. The nipple you inquired about u der the drivers side black cap in op is useless in our 2005's.
Last edited by joycesjag; Jan 26, 2026 at 02:11 PM.
drivers side
passenger side
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If indeed the nipple is solid, that would confirm the leaking seal theory. Please see this thread for details on the special clamp securing the cover:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...l-band-221643/
Last edited by kr98664; Jan 26, 2026 at 05:17 PM.
Karl is spot on with his link above. If you look closely at your drivers side under black cap its a "worm clamp" that when tightened clamp breaks off intentionally.
I have an extra o-ring in garage I will see if I find. The nipple again is solid inside.
I have an extra o-ring in garage I will see if I find. The nipple again is solid inside.
Last edited by joycesjag; Jan 26, 2026 at 07:12 PM.
I'm sorry, but I checked out the link you furnished and read all the comments about getting these caps off and now I am more confused. This seems like nobody really knows how to do this job and everyone is sort of exploring it. I'm lost. All I want to do is replace the green o ring. I don't get clamps that are designed to shear off when properly tightened. That makes them a one time use thing. I kinda doubt that even the jag service guys know how to do this repair on a 20 year old car. My tank was replaced with the recall but that was nearly 20 years ago. If the clamp is designed to break off, where do you get another? I am completely flummoxed on how to proceed. BTW even if I wanted to take it to a dealer, I lve in a very remote town that is more than 3 hours drive to the nearest Jag dealer.
I think I may have posted incorrect link. Let this link and start at post 24 and read each post to end. I did source my partscat the time from SNG Barrett
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-...-191781/page2/
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-...-191781/page2/
I'm sorry, but I checked out the link you furnished and read all the comments about getting these caps off and now I am more confused. This seems like nobody really knows how to do this job and everyone is sort of exploring it. I'm lost...
I am completely flummoxed on how to proceed...
I am completely flummoxed on how to proceed...
Take a few minutes to read that thread again. Yes, you are correct, there is no perfect answer but several workable options.
That mystery clamp is indeed designed for one-time use. However, by prying the shear collar off, you will find a small hex (7mm?) underneath? With the collar out of the way, and lots of patience, the clamp can be loosened with normal wrenches. A socket wrench and flex drive may be needed. See post #13 at that link for a view once the collar is removed. If the clamp is removed this way, it can be reused. The only unknown is what torque to use for tightening. I would suggest barely more than snug, but I don't really know.
If you can't get the collar to pop off, you can still loosen the clamp with Vise-Grips or similar.
Another option for easier removal is to simply cut the band clamp with tin snips. See post #19.
If you want to replace the clamp with new OEM, you can get official part numbers here:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
Lots of different options for the fuel tank, so I wasn't sure which to select for your car. Once you get the Jaguar part number for your model, you can search online. I picked one possible number (XR857243) and found multiple vendors.
Another option is to replace the OEM style with a standard worm-drive hose clamp. Once again, no idea on the torque, so don't overdo it. A standard hose clamp won't have those spring areas, which are probably designed to help maintain clamping force, but I don't think that would be super critical.
I think I may have posted incorrect link. Let this link and start at post 24 and read each post to end. I did source my partscat the time from SNG Barrett
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-...-191781/page2/
http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-...-191781/page2/
Time to get ahold of yourself!:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvPugcb7QGE
Take a few minutes to read that thread again. Yes, you are correct, there is no perfect answer but several workable options.
That mystery clamp is indeed designed for one-time use. However, by prying the shear collar off, you will find a small hex (7mm?) underneath? With the collar out of the way, and lots of patience, the clamp can be loosened with normal wrenches. A socket wrench and flex drive may be needed. See post #13 at that link for a view once the collar is removed. If the clamp is removed this way, it can be reused. The only unknown is what torque to use for tightening. I would suggest barely more than snug, but I don't really know.
If you can't get the collar to pop off, you can still loosen the clamp with Vise-Grips or similar.
Another option for easier removal is to simply cut the band clamp with tin snips. See post #19.
If you want to replace the clamp with new OEM, you can get official part numbers here:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
Lots of different options for the fuel tank, so I wasn't sure which to select for your car. Once you get the Jaguar part number for your model, you can search online. I picked one possible number (XR857243) and found multiple vendors.
Another option is to replace the OEM style with a standard worm-drive hose clamp. Once again, no idea on the torque, so don't overdo it. A standard hose clamp won't have those spring areas, which are probably designed to help maintain clamping force, but I don't think that would be super critical.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvPugcb7QGE
Take a few minutes to read that thread again. Yes, you are correct, there is no perfect answer but several workable options.
That mystery clamp is indeed designed for one-time use. However, by prying the shear collar off, you will find a small hex (7mm?) underneath? With the collar out of the way, and lots of patience, the clamp can be loosened with normal wrenches. A socket wrench and flex drive may be needed. See post #13 at that link for a view once the collar is removed. If the clamp is removed this way, it can be reused. The only unknown is what torque to use for tightening. I would suggest barely more than snug, but I don't really know.
If you can't get the collar to pop off, you can still loosen the clamp with Vise-Grips or similar.
Another option for easier removal is to simply cut the band clamp with tin snips. See post #19.
If you want to replace the clamp with new OEM, you can get official part numbers here:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/
Lots of different options for the fuel tank, so I wasn't sure which to select for your car. Once you get the Jaguar part number for your model, you can search online. I picked one possible number (XR857243) and found multiple vendors.
Another option is to replace the OEM style with a standard worm-drive hose clamp. Once again, no idea on the torque, so don't overdo it. A standard hose clamp won't have those spring areas, which are probably designed to help maintain clamping force, but I don't think that would be super critical.
Now the big question. Was the clamp accidentally left off during some previous work, perhaps during a recall? I don't think the clamp broke, as it would have stayed in position even if broken.
Looking more closely at your pics, are the rings white on both sides? The driver's side looks darker, but I can't tell if that is different material or just staining. Thinking out loud, but if the material is different, maybe it's a different design never intended to have a clamp, and now in need of some love. If the material is different, can you see if there's a groove where the clamp would have been?
Ooh, it looks like you found the secret. In your pics (post #7 above) I saw the clamp on the passenger side. I never looked very closely at the driver's side picture and yes, we have no clamp!
Now the big question. Was the clamp accidentally left off during some previous work, perhaps during a recall? I don't think the clamp broke, as it would have stayed in position even if broken.
Looking more closely at your pics, are the rings white on both sides? The driver's side looks darker, but I can't tell if that is different material or just staining. Thinking out loud, but if the material is different, maybe it's a different design never intended to have a clamp, and now in need of some love. If the material is different, can you see if there's a groove where the clamp would have been?
Now the big question. Was the clamp accidentally left off during some previous work, perhaps during a recall? I don't think the clamp broke, as it would have stayed in position even if broken.
Looking more closely at your pics, are the rings white on both sides? The driver's side looks darker, but I can't tell if that is different material or just staining. Thinking out loud, but if the material is different, maybe it's a different design never intended to have a clamp, and now in need of some love. If the material is different, can you see if there's a groove where the clamp would have been?
Any chance the cap is partially dislodged? If not fully seated, try pushing down gently. Maybe with any luck it will snap into place and then all you'd have to do is add a clamp somehow.
Do you see any provision where a clamp should have been installed? If so, and there's no clamp there now, you've probably been driving around for years without the clamp. Just a guess on my part, but perhaps the cap snaps somewhat into place and the clamp acts as insurance. If my line of thinking is correct, you may be able to gently pry the cap loose as is, since there is no clamp present.
Any chance the cap is partially dislodged? If not fully seated, try pushing down gently. Maybe with any luck it will snap into place and then all you'd have to do is add a clamp somehow.
Any chance the cap is partially dislodged? If not fully seated, try pushing down gently. Maybe with any luck it will snap into place and then all you'd have to do is add a clamp somehow.
Any updates? Hope the project is proceeding a little more smoothly for you.
As far as the design of the clamp: Wasn't that part of a recall to install a redesigned tank? If so, the clamp would have installed before the new tank was installed.. Access down the road wasn't much of a consideration. If indeed part of a recall campaign, the official procedure for further access may have been to cut the clamp and replace with new. Access would be tight for a new clamp, but it would still have the breakaway hex so hopefully wasn't too bad with a socket and flex drive.
Remember, if you can pry off the base of the breakaway collar, there is a smaller hex underneath.
Can anybody please confirm how the clamp style ring and cap are removed? Does the ring thread onto the tank? Or does it snap straight on or off? The ring appears to be indexed to the cap, so the ring can't turn separately. Is that correct? On my '02, the cap is not indexed to the ring. The ring unthreads separately while the cap remains stationary, much like a big Mason jar lid.
As far as the design of the clamp: Wasn't that part of a recall to install a redesigned tank? If so, the clamp would have installed before the new tank was installed.. Access down the road wasn't much of a consideration. If indeed part of a recall campaign, the official procedure for further access may have been to cut the clamp and replace with new. Access would be tight for a new clamp, but it would still have the breakaway hex so hopefully wasn't too bad with a socket and flex drive.
Remember, if you can pry off the base of the breakaway collar, there is a smaller hex underneath.
Can anybody please confirm how the clamp style ring and cap are removed? Does the ring thread onto the tank? Or does it snap straight on or off? The ring appears to be indexed to the cap, so the ring can't turn separately. Is that correct? On my '02, the cap is not indexed to the ring. The ring unthreads separately while the cap remains stationary, much like a big Mason jar lid.
The 2005 S-Type had just one recall. It was for the fuel tank. Not sure this is your problem so see if any of the attached documents will help? It does mention the problem can cause leaks around the tank seals. Plus they mention fuel odors.
From the TSB:
Q2-Can you tell me more about what is wrong with the vehicle?
A-Investigations have determined that 2005MY North American specification vehicles may be fitted
with a fuel tank that has inadequate thickness around the apertures and/or dimension concerns
that could lead to aperture distortion around the seals. Where the tank aperture sealing is
inadequate it is possible for the On Board Diagnostic leak detection system to sense this and
could result in illumination of the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) or a fuel odor. Fuel leaks are
most likely to occur only after a fuel tank has been fully filled with fuel.
TSB-R176.
Now the bad thing is the solution is a fuel tank replacement. Don't know if any new tanks are still available or not? Probably not. The recall usually is only good for 10-15 years after it's issued but again that can vary.
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From the TSB:
Q2-Can you tell me more about what is wrong with the vehicle?
A-Investigations have determined that 2005MY North American specification vehicles may be fitted
with a fuel tank that has inadequate thickness around the apertures and/or dimension concerns
that could lead to aperture distortion around the seals. Where the tank aperture sealing is
inadequate it is possible for the On Board Diagnostic leak detection system to sense this and
could result in illumination of the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) or a fuel odor. Fuel leaks are
most likely to occur only after a fuel tank has been fully filled with fuel.
TSB-R176.
Now the bad thing is the solution is a fuel tank replacement. Don't know if any new tanks are still available or not? Probably not. The recall usually is only good for 10-15 years after it's issued but again that can vary.
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.
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