2003 S-Type R Supercharged V8


Car was running beautifully. I pulled into my garage and turned it off. I came out an hour or so later to run an errand and it barely started. Then the engine finally got going, but runs really rough. Barely stays running. It will start every time, but just limps along. I am afraid to drive it.


Any ideas on what to do?


Pete

 

Trouble codes?

 

At least check battery voltage because a near dead battery can do that. Check again in one of the fuse boxes in case there's a bad power connection somewhere.

No guarantees but these engines are fairly solid so it probably isn't terminal.

Might be as simple as a vacuum hose is cracked or loose.

 

Hello I have just had a similar issue on my Jaguar S Type R. The best and quickest way is to have the fault code read. Otherwise you can be left running in circles. Your problem could be anything from ignition coils to an air/gas leak. My issue occured after I had the EGR valve replaced as it was not working due to being clogged up but this had no real impact on performance just a warning light. After picking my car up from the garage it was running like a dog with no fault codes at first, the garage told me it was probably a leak with the new EGR valve but it turned out whilst working on the car they had knocked a very perished brake vaccum hose situated next to the brake servo hose thus causing a air leak from the intake manifold which resulted in a lean air/fuel mixtue the part cost £15 to replace and the car is now running sweet. This part is subject to high heat and vibration from the engine so this could possibly be your issue. Other than this coils can be expensive as its best to replace all 8 otherwise the weakest coils will keep dying (trust me this happened to me again and again). Any air leaks from the intake system can be a pain to find but relatively easy to solve. Hope this has been of some help.

 

I took that angle with my S-Type with coils. I had no desire to chase coils and replaced them all at once with OEM along with the spark plugs.

 

Thanks for the replies. I checked the battery and it seems in proper order. I don't have a fault code yet. I have been afraid to drive it and don't have a unit to pull the code. I did look around at the vacuum hoses and don't see anything obvious. Once I have the default code, I will let you know what it is.


I love the forum. You guys really helped me out of a jam a few months ago.


Pete

 

It is very odd and unlucky that you have not had a fault code yet especially with the risk of potentially causing damage to the engine.
I have see n a youtube video that shows a hidden menu in the navigation screen and you can access fault code and additional settings.
below is a bit of a bad video but it does show how to do this and its worth a try to have a look.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OUSYDQ-l6DI
if the link does not work just type in jaguar s type hidden menu into google.

 

That shows historic codes round the car but you want the current one in the PCM. Just read it, stop messing around.

 

I buy a diagnostic fault code reader and these are the codes it pulled from my car:


Confirmed
P0300 - Random - Multiple Misfire Detected
P0301 - Cyl. 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cyl. 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cyl. 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 - Cyl. 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 - Cyl. 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 - Cyl. 6 Misfire Detected
P0307 - Cyl. 7 Misfire Detected
P0308 - Cyl. 8 Misfire Detected
P1316 - Injector Circuit/IDM Code Detected. Spark plug detection module circuit malfunction.


Pending
P1111 - Manufacture Controlled Fuel & Air Metering. Intake Air Temperature sensor circuit intermittent - High Voltage


I read on other threads that coil and spark plug replacement seemed to solve the problem. The difference was that those issues only included 1-3 cylinders misfiring. Apparently, all of mine started misfiring at the same time. Is that normal? I have 127,000 miles on the car and it really has run beautifully until now and this is the first time I have experienced anything like this.


Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

The P1 (non-generic) codes are being explained wrongly. Grab JTIS / codes PDF and you'll see not just the correct meanings but known causes. (Or Search as others have posted them before.)

With so many misfire codes I'd be looking for a common (to all cyls / both banks) cause - see the ones listed in the codes stuff.

If you can read live data look at fuel trims (esp. LTFTs) at idle & 2500rpm (parked, engine hot).

 

Wouldn't hurt to pull a plug and check it; also check for oil leaking into the plug wells. It does seem strange that all 8 cylinders would start misfiring at the same time with no lean codes. It would almost seem that it is ignition related such as plugs and coils rather than a fuel or air problem.

 

I'd start lookin at the battery strength. May need to replace..

 

About a month ago, I purchased the work shop manual which is terrific to have from an information standpoint. I had forgot about it until you suggested I download the JTIS. I have not been able to use the program on my computer. The good news is that I found the CD for the manual and was able to find the trouble codes with possible causes and actions. Here is what I found:


P1316 refers me to P0300 - P0301 etc. for possible cause and action.


P0300 is for misfire detected. In my case, all 8 cylinders are misfiring.


Possible causes are ECM to Ignition coil primary circuit fault; Ignition Coil Failure; Spark Plug Failure/Fouled/incorrect gap; Fuel injector circuit fault; Fuel Delivery pressure high/low; Fuel injectors restricted leaking; Fuel Injectors continuously open; Fuel contamination; Worn camshaft/broken valve springs.


It refers me to the actions, but before I go there, I wanted to ask your opinion. I noticed that fuel contamination may be a cause. Considering all of them failed at the same time, I wonder if this could cause that kind of failure.


I almost never let me fuel go below 1/2 tank with the exception of long trips. Even then, I generally fill up when it gets to 1/2 tank. A couple of days before the failure, I came into town from a long trip and allowed the low fuel signal to come on and only had a few miles left. I stopped at a place that sells Exxon fuel and put in a couple of gallons. The next day, I filled up at a different stop.... not my usual, but the same gas company, Conoco. I drove it home and put it in the garage, about 5 miles. When I came out to start it again later that, the misfiring started.


Does this sound like a contaminated fuel issue? If so, how would I test it to know for sure? What do you do in these instances anyway?


Thanks a bunch JagV8!

 

I'd clear the codes and see which (if any) comes back first.

I'm unsure about fuel but if it might be low in octane then adding some higher octane (or any octane booster) ought to be good enough. If it's water or some other contaminant then a tech would probably run some fuel into a clear container, let it settle, and look at it.

The PCM (ECM) doesn't in practice seem to fail so consider it last.

 

Please post the battery voltage. Car off and car running. Also do a load test on the battery and report back. A real load test with the battery out of the car and taken somewhere.

It does not tell us anything when you say you checked the battery.

Finally how old is the battery?
.
.
.

 

+1 battery must be REALLY good as in at least 12.45V after standing over night or you could be chasing non-existent engine faults.

 

100% agree on the battery tests. I had a number of oddball issues with my wife's S-Type where dash lights wouldn't work or the radio would not come on and other times wouldn't shut off when the key was removed. It was almost a week after that when it would hard start. Everything went back to normal with a new battery.

 

I am with JagV8 on the fuel. It could be bad fuel so for now clear the codes and add a can of BG44K to the fuel and see what takes place.

 

I couldn't find the BG44 but decided to use some Chevron Techron Injector system cleaner. My tank was full so not the best way to do it. I let it sit for 10 minutes and then cleared the codes. I started it up and it ran rough for a moment. I decided to keep the RPMs between 2000 and 3000 until the car warmed up. When I let off, it idled like a kitten. I took it about 10 miles opening it up a bit. Got home and no fault codes. Shut it off and started it up again and it was fine.

I am not sure if it was a bad batch of fuel or if I had build up of something at the bottom of my gas tank that when I let it go nearly to empty caused it to be sucked up into the motor.

In any case, it seems good. Thanks a million for your help. Have a terrific day.

 

BG44k is a high end product and found at Dealerships such as Jaguar, GM, Ford, Toyota and so on. Not found in NAPA or AutoZone or Advance. Techron is a good product but I use BG44k.