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Suspensions CATs Fault Dashboard Code

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Old Feb 4, 2025 | 09:50 PM
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Default Suspensions CATs Fault Dashboard Code

Hello everyone. I have a 03 Jaguar. S type R. Miles are irrelevant. At a point in time I did not have this light on my dash. I got H&R lowering springs installed and for months after, this code is still alive. I’ve seen you cannot get rid of it, I’ve been told to unplug and plug in each Shock solenoid.. and I’ve been told the IDS/SDD system would clear it. Ive also been told to just unplug the connectors to the Adaptive Control module in the trunk.. the code stays. I’ve tried them all and have gotten nowhere. My IDS Program under the ECM tab, says “Communications lost”.. which gives me the idea that that is the reason to the codes not clearing when I try to clear them on the software.
Id greatly appreciate all feedback. You guys were very helpful on my last scenario, hopefully I can get somewhere with this.
When I try to clear these codes.. IDS states
“Unable to clear all codes

Diagnostic trouble code 0x5424 has been read from the ADRC.

Diagnostic trouble code 0x5430 has been read from the ADRC

Diagnostic trouble code 0x5427 has been read from the ADRC!

Use the diagnostic trouble code monitor to view the stored diagnostic trouble codes.”






 

Last edited by MDZJaguarSTR; Feb 4, 2025 at 09:55 PM.
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 02:01 PM
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I had the same issue that IDS could not read the PCM ECU. Make sure to follow the instructions / prompts regarding turning the ignition on and off and it will read from the PCM.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2025 | 02:05 PM
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The three CATS faults are open circuit between the CATS module and the dampers so you need to check the circuits between the damper and the ECU with a multimeter and check for open circuit. Then measure resistance of the damper connector and compare to your good damper.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2025 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDeBruce
The three CATS faults are open circuit between the CATS module and the dampers so you need to check the circuits between the damper and the ECU with a multimeter and check for open circuit. Then measure resistance of the damper connector and compare to your good damper.
Normally I get an email that someone responded to my threads. Sorry I’m responding late. I will let you know how this goes. Are there any diagrams showing where these wires layout? Or should I just ask my mechanic to do it.

Also I’ve tried the IDS procedure Atleast 3 times now. I really think I’m following the directions to a T?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2025 | 01:56 AM
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Yes. See Electrical Guide and look closely.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MDZJaguarSTR
Normally I get an email that someone responded to my threads. Sorry I’m responding late. I will let you know how this goes. Are there any diagrams showing where these wires layout? Or should I just ask my mechanic to do it.

Also I’ve tried the IDS procedure Atleast 3 times now. I really think I’m following the directions to a T?
Can you read the OBDII codes out of the PCM using a standard code reader? ELM327 or something like that? I can always do that even though I struggled to read the manufacturer specific codes.

Reading the Chassis codes for the dampers, I don't think it's the fault if the H&R springs. Have you checked the damper electrical connections out with a multimeter yet? What are the resistance values of the four dampers?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2025 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDeBruce
Can you read the OBDII codes out of the PCM using a standard code reader? ELM327 or something like that? I can always do that even though I struggled to read the manufacturer specific codes.

Reading the Chassis codes for the dampers, I don't think it's the fault if the H&R springs. Have you checked the damper electrical connections out with a multimeter yet? What are the resistance values of the four dampers?
Hello thanks for the input. The only information I Was able to get were those codes. A basic OB2 scanner can read my car if I have check engine lights, it can read my fuel trims and all of that good stuff. It’s just on the Software I’m getting an error. I didn’t always get an error but I do now. The first time I ever used it, I seen all of my codes. Not sure. I just know these codes were not on the dash until after the installation of lowering springs..
 
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 06:52 AM
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I have an 03 S-Type R too and I also had trouble reading the manufacturer codes from my ECU. The first few times I connected IDS it wouldn't read them and I had exactly the same error on my screen for the ECM. I tried again, following the prompts to turn ignition on and off and it worked, hence my suggestion. Since you can read the general codes and the car runs, the ECM is working so that's a positive. Beyond this I am not sure how to get it to read, aside from checking the integrity of the CAN bus but if you don't have any other messages, I wouldn't start disconnecting and probing the wiring just yet.

Stupid question regarding the CATS codes but have you actually cleared them? These codes would have been thrown if the ignition was turned on with dampers disconnected and I assume they are not historic? Otherwise, get a DMM and just measure the resistance of each damper across the two pins on the connector on the top as a start for 10. Are they all the same?

The advice about plugging and unplugging dampers and modules is rubbish. These are specific codes stating you do not have continuity from damper module to damper and back and we need to understand why the module thinks this is the case. It will either be a broken wire or pin, or a failed damper.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 06:57 AM
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C1424 is Front Left Damper Open Circuit
C1427 is Right Rear Damper Open Circuit
C1430 is Left Rear Damper Open Circuit

So for instance check the front right damper resistance value Vs front left and see if they are significantly different.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2025 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDeBruce
I have an 03 S-Type R too and I also had trouble reading the manufacturer codes from my ECU. The first few times I connected IDS it wouldn't read them and I had exactly the same error on my screen for the ECM. I tried again, following the prompts to turn ignition on and off and it worked, hence my suggestion. Since you can read the general codes and the car runs, the ECM is working so that's a positive. Beyond this I am not sure how to get it to read, aside from checking the integrity of the CAN bus but if you don't have any other messages, I wouldn't start disconnecting and probing the wiring just yet.

Stupid question regarding the CATS codes but have you actually cleared them? These codes would have been thrown if the ignition was turned on with dampers disconnected and I assume they are not historic? Otherwise, get a DMM and just measure the resistance of each damper across the two pins on the connector on the top as a start for 10. Are they all the same?

The advice about plugging and unplugging dampers and modules is rubbish. These are specific codes stating you do not have continuity from damper module to damper and back and we need to understand why the module thinks this is the case. It will either be a broken wire or pin, or a failed damper.
Ok, I’ll give it another try in the near future. At the moment I don’t have the urge to set up a battery to maintain the cars battery and deal with the inconsistent launching of the program.. setting up extension cords, etc etc

as for as the CATs, I asked my mechanic, maybe he lied, he said he unplugged the battery like you’re supposed to when disconnecting the dampers.. I highly feel like he didn’t. The IDS program doesn’t not allow me to clear the codes. I tried to manually clear the ABS and CATs codes.. it just doesn’t connect. 1 time I cleared them and it said 0 faults but the light was still upon the dash. I have a feeling it’s not allowing me to clear.. because I have miscommunication with the ECU..
 
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 05:52 AM
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If you are just clearing codes, you don't need to set up battery support, etc.

What happens when you try to clear the codes in the ADRC module and the Cluster?

The problem is you have may have faults on the dampers and you aren't sharing any information on what you have done to check, validate or resolve these issues. If you have open circuit on these damper circuits then the ADRC will report these faults no matter how many times you swap it, clear it, or disconnect and reconnect it because the fault is still there.

Have you investigated the continuity through the dampers in question as a starter? What are the results? What about continuity around each of the damper feed and return circuits (using the circuits to check and confirm the necessary pins). If you cannot do this, then you need to take the car to someone who can.

You need to diagnose and rectify the fault condition rather than keep resetting and swapping the module, etc.

It doesn't matter if the mechanic did or did not disconnect the battery. If you rectify the fault then the codes will go away. Perhaps the mechanic damaged the pins on the dampers when removing and fitting them. Or forgot to disconnect the connectors and damaged the circuits remove the damper. This is what requires investigation and confirmation.
 

Last edited by MrDeBruce; Feb 25, 2025 at 05:54 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2025 | 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MrDeBruce
If you are just clearing codes, you don't need to set up battery support, etc.

What happens when you try to clear the codes in the ADRC module and the Cluster?

The problem is you have may have faults on the dampers and you aren't sharing any information on what you have done to check, validate or resolve these issues. If you have open circuit on these damper circuits then the ADRC will report these faults no matter how many times you swap it, clear it, or disconnect and reconnect it because the fault is still there.

Have you investigated the continuity through the dampers in question as a starter? What are the results? What about continuity around each of the damper feed and return circuits (using the circuits to check and confirm the necessary pins). If you cannot do this, then you need to take the car to someone who can.

You need to diagnose and rectify the fault condition rather than keep resetting and swapping the module, etc.

It doesn't matter if the mechanic did or did not disconnect the battery. If you rectify the fault then the codes will go away. Perhaps the mechanic damaged the pins on the dampers when removing and fitting them. Or forgot to disconnect the connectors and damaged the circuits remove the damper. This is what requires investigation and confirmation.
All I’ve done personally Is plugged and unplugged the pins on the top of each shock to check if they were damaged or misfitted. Everything seemed fine on that end. I also only bought a use modules and tried to reconfigure it as I’ve been told some people have solved their issue with that problem.

I have not read any circuit voltages. I just simply
have the circuit may be open codes.

I was always told maybe the solenoid internally for the shocks were damaged. I will be having coilovers fit to the car.. so I’m not sure if I’ll ever be able to clear the code.. maybe with resistors to the connectors. I’m not sure but I do greatly appreciate your help. You’re the only one helping and it means a lot
 
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Old Feb 26, 2025 | 04:55 PM
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Are you able to use a digital multimeter? You use this to check the resistance across the pins on each shock as a starter for ten. See if you can borrow one, remove each connector on the shock top and measure the resistance across each one. It shouldn't take too long.

I will try to read mine and give you some good values to compare

The codes are pointing you towards what's wrong. You have to use that data to work towards the root cause by following a structured diagnosis process.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2025 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDeBruce
Are you able to use a digital multimeter? You use this to check the resistance across the pins on each shock as a starter for ten. See if you can borrow one, remove each connector on the shock top and measure the resistance across each one. It shouldn't take too long.

I will try to read mine and give you some good values to compare

The codes are pointing you towards what's wrong. You have to use that data to work towards the root cause by following a structured diagnosis process.
Yea the code is saying it may be a disconnect. I see I’m not the only one with this fault, I believe I will need to do something with the Resistors because I will be installing coilovers.. so I’m going to need to bypass them anyway.
 
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