It seems like I need to adjust fuel level sensor and it is exactly the same procedure you adjust toilet tank float (bending float wire)
Instrument cluster gauge check (I did):
1.Attach 20 Ohm resistors to both fuel sensor harness connectors on top of fuel tank.
Gauge shows empty tank.
2.Attach 160 Ohms resistors to both connectors.
Gauge shows full tank
3. 20 Ohms to left connector, 160 to right connector.
Shows half tank.
Level sensors check (removed from tank)
float in full position about 160 Ohms
empty about 20 Ohms

If both tests passed, but gauge doesn't show full, it means I have to bend float wire of left level sensor.
Sensors should have resistance about 20 Ohms empty, 160 Ohms full
Numbers are on electrical diagram.
Any comments?

 

Um, it's not quite the same procedure. Last time I adjusted my toilet's flush valve, I didn't have to use any resistors or even break out my meter.

All seriousness aside, I've taught myself something about tank sender calibration that I've never seen in any manual. I've done several this way with excellent results.

The calibration is best done in two distinct stages. No meter or test resistors are needed. Maybe just some test leads to give you some extra working room.

The first step is to electrically calibrate the sender to the gauge. With the sender wires connected (use jumpers as needed) and power on, move the float arm full up. Hold it there for a couple of minutes, as most gauges are deliberately slow-acting to give a a steady reading as the fuel sloshes around. Not sure about the Jag unit, but most senders have adjustable stops to electrically calibrate the sender to the gauge. Adjust the stop as needed so the gauge reads F.

Repeat the process with the float arm fully down. Adjust the stop as needed so the gauge reads E.

With the sender electrically calibrated to the gauge, let's move on to mechanically calibrating the sender to the tank. This is when you'll be bending the arm. Leave the float arm stops alone now, as they were only used for the electrical calibration portion of the process. Use two pairs of pliers to bend the arm. Make the bend beyond the portion of the arm that touches the stops, as you don't want to disturb the electrical calibration previously accomplished.

For the mechanical calibration, measure the depth of the tank where the float travels. Bend the arm so the bottom of the float just reaches this depth at the same time the arm reaches the previously calibrated E electrical stop. Then raise the arm and see if it will rise high enough so the top of the float will reach the ceiling of the tank with the arm at the F electrical stop. Remember, don't change those stops because they were only for the electrical calibration to the gauge.

You may find the arm can't travel fully in both directions. If so, I'd suggest favoring the adjustment against the bottom of the tank, as that is much more critical.

 

nothing should need adjusting , more like something needs replacing!
think i would dive a little deeper in to trouble shooting before you bend any thing.

 

This car has had huge amounts of tinkering so this may be a result.