I used the basic instruction from EZ Driver that are in the files here.

Tools needed: 1/4 inch drive universal jointed sockets in 7, 8, and 10mm. If you don't have them, don't start this project. You will also need extensions from 3 inches to 24 inches, Universal joints, and a very small torque wrench. I also used my 3/8 drive for the larger sizes 10-14mm. Use rubber gloves...heavy duty type and even those will tear. I used about 30 pairs.

Most difficult part of the job is not damaging the wiring harness. They are already brittle and one screw up can keep you grounded. They use a lot of plastic push through fasteners to hold them in place and Jag didn't waste any wire on this mess.

I also used the Jaguar manual too to see drawings of the small things.

Things I learned:

1. The oil fill tube on the top of the cover is a snap in type. I broke it when I twisted it. Ordered a new one and used a silicone glue/sealer to hold it until the new one arrives.

2. The manual says to unbolt the dipstick tube and pull up to get it over the 1" stud. I did that and it came completely out. Surprise. EZ Driver said his was stuck....OK, so I went back to the Jag Manual and on Page 1300 or so, it showed a drawing. Got it back in the hole. To measure if it is all the way down, just use the dipstick to see if the level is correct.

3. I used air to clean the spark plug cylinders BEFORE I took out the old ones. I used a tiny bit of anti seize on the plugs to be sure I didn't cross thread them and I put them in BEFORE I put the cam covers back on.

Is this an easy job? NO, it does take some mechanical skills. What did I find? My original tensioners didn't look like others that have been shown here. They were not damaged at all and I used my snake camera to look down at the others I wasn't changing. I could only see the races, but they were fine.

My time was about 9 hours for both sides, but I do these type of jobs very slowly.

A few photos are attached. Overall, this model has some very good performance gear, but it is so poorly arranged for any serious wrenching around. Because it is a pain to do even small stuff, I figured I would do a lot at once and f'git about it for a while.

 

When I see the underhood photos of V8 S Types I love my V6 more and more. Access under the hood quite is pleasurable on these models.

I may be biased, this is true, but I damn near skipped mine over due to my love of V8 sedans. I am glad I gave my V6 its chance.

Your photo reminds me of my Olds Silhouette. That's tough company to be in.

 

Well done David, but not damaged? They look cracked to me and you are missing the plastic where the chain runs.

 

The crack looked like a manufacturing mold mark, but I had never seen one before, so it looks like a just in time fix. The bottom foot? GONE. I used a lighted snake and looked in every place it would reach and couldn't see or find even a piece of a foot. When I saw the first tensioner, it was an oh sh....t moment! When the second one looked the same, I wasn't sure about how it was made. If there were feet, they must have been ground up by the gears. Either way, I am glad to have gotten them changed.

BTW, the smoothness of the engine didn't change . There was never any indication of a problem.

 

Yes, it is tight under there. Even with the covers off, the access is not very well designed. My sister's XK8 convertible is much easier to maintain and work on than the S-Type. The tools needed are not expensive, just not that common in most tool boxes. I use nothing but hex head sockets long and short. I get all my hand tools from Craftsman. First they have them and second, they stand by them for life. This car reminds me of my last boat. These are the twist and turn moments of wrenching. I had to look up what an Olds Silhouette looks like. lol

 

Please replace the PLASTIC BODY tensioners!
(and the cracked guide blades)

bob

 

Does anyone know where to buy the crankshaft pulley tool for removal. I am looking for an exact fit. Thanks.

 

If the upper tensioners appear to be cracked, then it is safe to assume the lower tensioners and guides need to be replaced as well.

The 'missing' parts from the plastic tensioners and guides can be found in the sump.

 

1997-2008 Jaguar V8 Timing Tool Kit 3.2, 3.5, 4.0, 4.2L V8 XJ, XF, XK, S-Type | eBay

 

I ordered the lowers. Bought the entire kit and it was less than just the lower tensioners.

I haven't found the front pulley tool yet. Thanks to motorman for the ebay tip but so far I haven't seen what is in the book to do it. I may use a universal and that should do it.

Sump = Oil Pan? If they are in there, they must be in pieces.

 

Here is the Jaguar SST information:
Crankshaft locking, main tool
303-191

Crankshaft pulley/damper remover
303-588

 

Thanks. I found this set on Ebay and it is brand new. Since I will only use it once, some others here may need to borrow it when I get this job done.

 

Does it include the tool to hold the crankshaft whilst removing the damper pulley bolt?

Also, the AJ28 uses a different crankshaft holding tool than other AJ-V8s.

 

Edited: This is what I bought: JAC 1405 Crankshaft Pulley Remover/Installation Tool Kit.

 

Good looking kit!
Was it very expensive?

Yes your tensioners were waiting to explode. There was hardly any plastic left!! Count yourself lucky and you did the repair in time.
.
.
.

 

That kit was $125. The only real issue is getting the crankshaft pulley bolt loose and then removing the pulley. The rest is not that bad.

I posted the photos because I had never seen them with a metal foot. I guess there was a reason why. I had an import tech come and check the chains. He said they are fine and looked new to him, so those are staying and only tensioners and races are going on. Piece of cake. The mileage is about 73,000. It takes tons more time to disassemble the covers and junk than to make the repair.

But...while I have it apart, a new metal t-stat housing is going on an few new hoses I have packed away.

I found that wratchets and u-joint tools were a problem. Got sever new ones with much more flexibility and that should make some things easier.

 

Looks like it would do the job properly.

Did you also purchase the crankshaft holding, or setting tool that fits it place of the crankshaft position sensor?

Crankshaft Setting Peg 303-645

 

I don't have a peg yet. One indy shop said I didn't need it and one did. One told me to put the socket on the nut with a bar and bump the starter. When I asked if he was kidding, he said no, that is how they get them off jags to put in new oil seals. I am going under the car today and see if i can reach the peg spot and then decide what to do.

 

The correct Crankshaft Holding Tool must be used to ensure the engine is timed correctly.

 

I figured proper tools are the only answer.