VVT solenoid connector 2000 s type 3.0
#1
VVT solenoid connector 2000 s type 3.0
New mechanic here. Was replacing coils and plugs today. The previous owner only took the car to the dealership. The driver side vvt solenoid connection was broken and glued back on. Does anyone know where to buy just the connector? Everything Ive found has been 150+.
The car is a 2000 S Type 3.0
The car is a 2000 S Type 3.0
#2
#3
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Welcome to the forum JHardee,
Chances are it's a Ford one, check here https://www.fordparts.com/FileUpload...ook%202016.pdf
Don't forget to post an intro in the new members section.
Chances are it's a Ford one, check here https://www.fordparts.com/FileUpload...ook%202016.pdf
Don't forget to post an intro in the new members section.
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#6
I'm confused by this. Refresh my memory, please. The VVT solenoid sticks up through the valve cover, right? How could somebody fit a larger one? Or am I thinking of something else? Either way, I'd take it back to stock.
As far as the connector, what code(s) are you getting? (The 5-digit code, please, not just the definition.) The reason I ask is some VVT codes are actually related to oil pressure, the muscle force that actually moves the actuator. You can easily get steered down the wrong path with the VVT system.
Also, your damaged connector may be just fine as is. If it's holding the contacts in place, I'd be tempted to let it be versus splicing in a new one. The female sockets in the connector grab the male tabs in the solenoid. That's 100% of your electrical connection right there. The connector shell is just a convenience to align the sockets for assembly, and provide a secondary lock. I've dealt with a lot of damaged connectors on old cars. For unobtainable plastic pieces, I've had good results simply removing the contacts from the broken shell and connecting them one by one. Much less convenient, of course, but perfectly adequate for connections that rarely require disassembly and don't need to be weatherproof.
If you can't find a new connector, you could also go used, as previously suggested. If possible, I like to disassemble the connector and swap the good shell onto the existing contacts, instead of just cutting and splicing. Less splices mean higher reliability.
As far as the connector, what code(s) are you getting? (The 5-digit code, please, not just the definition.) The reason I ask is some VVT codes are actually related to oil pressure, the muscle force that actually moves the actuator. You can easily get steered down the wrong path with the VVT system.
Also, your damaged connector may be just fine as is. If it's holding the contacts in place, I'd be tempted to let it be versus splicing in a new one. The female sockets in the connector grab the male tabs in the solenoid. That's 100% of your electrical connection right there. The connector shell is just a convenience to align the sockets for assembly, and provide a secondary lock. I've dealt with a lot of damaged connectors on old cars. For unobtainable plastic pieces, I've had good results simply removing the contacts from the broken shell and connecting them one by one. Much less convenient, of course, but perfectly adequate for connections that rarely require disassembly and don't need to be weatherproof.
If you can't find a new connector, you could also go used, as previously suggested. If possible, I like to disassemble the connector and swap the good shell onto the existing contacts, instead of just cutting and splicing. Less splices mean higher reliability.
#7
The solenoid on bank 2 seems to be larger than the one on bank 1 when I look at it. It could just be the large amount of glue/gasket maker that someone put on it, covers up the model number. Definitely going to replace it. The code Im getting is p1380, Im guessing from a bad contact. Might try a zip tie if the connector I ordered doesnt work.
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#8
The solenoid on bank 2 seems to be larger than the one on bank 1 when I look at it. It could just be the large amount of glue/gasket maker that someone put on it, covers up the model number. Definitely going to replace it. The code Im getting is p1380, Im guessing from a bad contact. Might try a zip tie if the connector I ordered doesnt work.
#9
P1380 is a fairly rare code. I had been wondering if you were getting a VVT timing code, as those are often related to low oil pressure or clogged passages. But no, P1380 is for a solenoid electrical circuit fault on bank 1.
More details here:
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/P20000.PDF
How difficult is it to access the opposite VVT solenoid? How bad is the boogered one? What if you were to swap the known good one from bank 2 over to bank 1, and move the suspect one to bank 2? If the fault follows, then you'd know it was the solenoid. If the fault stays with bank 1, you'd know it was a wiring issue and would save the cost of a new solenoid.
More details here:
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/P20000.PDF
How difficult is it to access the opposite VVT solenoid? How bad is the boogered one? What if you were to swap the known good one from bank 2 over to bank 1, and move the suspect one to bank 2? If the fault follows, then you'd know it was the solenoid. If the fault stays with bank 1, you'd know it was a wiring issue and would save the cost of a new solenoid.
#11
New connector arrived, spliced it in and works like a charm. There is a opening in the one I ordered so I closed it off with a bit off gasket maker, just enough to close the gap, otherwise I wont be able to remove it in the future. For anybody that may be looking for the connector it is a ford wpt-159. Thanks again for the help kr98664 and JagV8.
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