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VVT solenoid connector 2000 s type 3.0

 
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Old 05-07-2017, 09:57 PM
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Default VVT solenoid connector 2000 s type 3.0

New mechanic here. Was replacing coils and plugs today. The previous owner only took the car to the dealership. The driver side vvt solenoid connection was broken and glued back on. Does anyone know where to buy just the connector? Everything Ive found has been 150+.
The car is a 2000 S Type 3.0
 
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:21 PM
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Forgot to mention, The solenoid was replaced with a larger one from a different engine. Do I need to buy a new one or should I just replace it. Its been throwing a code for a while. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 05-08-2017, 02:00 AM
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Welcome to the forum JHardee,

Chances are it's a Ford one, check here https://www.fordparts.com/FileUpload...ook%202016.pdf

Don't forget to post an intro in the new members section.
 
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:59 PM
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Thanks for the quick response and link, unfortunately didnt find it in the pdf, but I did find a fuel injection connector that looks like it is the same one. Model APDTY 756326 for anyone else that might be looking.
 
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:14 AM
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Any S-Type car breaker can sell one.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 05-09-2017 at 08:17 AM. Reason: And -> Any
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JHardee View Post
The solenoid was replaced with a larger one from a different engine.
I'm confused by this. Refresh my memory, please. The VVT solenoid sticks up through the valve cover, right? How could somebody fit a larger one? Or am I thinking of something else? Either way, I'd take it back to stock.

As far as the connector, what code(s) are you getting? (The 5-digit code, please, not just the definition.) The reason I ask is some VVT codes are actually related to oil pressure, the muscle force that actually moves the actuator. You can easily get steered down the wrong path with the VVT system.

Also, your damaged connector may be just fine as is. If it's holding the contacts in place, I'd be tempted to let it be versus splicing in a new one. The female sockets in the connector grab the male tabs in the solenoid. That's 100% of your electrical connection right there. The connector shell is just a convenience to align the sockets for assembly, and provide a secondary lock. I've dealt with a lot of damaged connectors on old cars. For unobtainable plastic pieces, I've had good results simply removing the contacts from the broken shell and connecting them one by one. Much less convenient, of course, but perfectly adequate for connections that rarely require disassembly and don't need to be weatherproof.

If you can't find a new connector, you could also go used, as previously suggested. If possible, I like to disassemble the connector and swap the good shell onto the existing contacts, instead of just cutting and splicing. Less splices mean higher reliability.
 
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:00 PM
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The solenoid on bank 2 seems to be larger than the one on bank 1 when I look at it. It could just be the large amount of glue/gasket maker that someone put on it, covers up the model number. Definitely going to replace it. The code Im getting is p1380, Im guessing from a bad contact. Might try a zip tie if the connector I ordered doesnt work.
 
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JHardee View Post
The solenoid on bank 2 seems to be larger than the one on bank 1 when I look at it. It could just be the large amount of glue/gasket maker that someone put on it, covers up the model number. Definitely going to replace it. The code Im getting is p1380, Im guessing from a bad contact. Might try a zip tie if the connector I ordered doesnt work.
A zip tie will work to keep the electrical connector in place. Both solenoids should be the same size. If not, find the offending, wrong VVT and source a proper replacement. Be sure to change the VVT o ring both on the solenoid itself and the one on the cam cover.
 
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:57 PM
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P1380 is a fairly rare code. I had been wondering if you were getting a VVT timing code, as those are often related to low oil pressure or clogged passages. But no, P1380 is for a solenoid electrical circuit fault on bank 1.

More details here:

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/P20000.PDF

How difficult is it to access the opposite VVT solenoid? How bad is the boogered one? What if you were to swap the known good one from bank 2 over to bank 1, and move the suspect one to bank 2? If the fault follows, then you'd know it was the solenoid. If the fault stays with bank 1, you'd know it was a wiring issue and would save the cost of a new solenoid.
 
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Old 05-10-2017, 07:17 AM
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I'd have to cut the wire on the boogered ones pigtail to get the valve cover off. For now I'll just have to hope the new connector works.
 
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:31 PM
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New connector arrived, spliced it in and works like a charm. There is a opening in the one I ordered so I closed it off with a bit off gasket maker, just enough to close the gap, otherwise I wont be able to remove it in the future. For anybody that may be looking for the connector it is a ford wpt-159. Thanks again for the help kr98664 and JagV8.
 
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Old 04-06-2019, 05:37 AM
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Thanks guys, I can confirm that wpt-159 is correct.
5 dollars from Aliexpress inc. postage.
 
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:15 AM
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Dumb question - I have a 2000 vaden plas base and I need the VVT solenoid "O" rings. I have an oil leak that killed my alternator. Does anyone know the part numbers or source for these?
Thanks, oteymus
 
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Old 07-07-2019, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by oteymus View Post
Dumb question - I have a 2000 vaden plas base and I need the VVT solenoid "O" rings. I have an oil leak that killed my alternator. Does anyone know the part numbers or source for these?
Thanks, oteymus
Try our forum sponsor SNG Barrett
 
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Old 07-07-2019, 12:13 PM
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Hey,
While I was waiting for a reply, I found one on ebay for $18. Thanks again, oteymus
 
 

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