Hello
I own a 2004 Jaguar S Type. The window switch on the front passenger side always goes down but sometimes doesn’t go up. When it’s not going up from the passenger switch it’s also not going up from the control panel on the drivers side. If anyone can help me identify the issue I would greatly appreciate it. I live in a not so great area so my window being down is a big issue.

 

Hi Stypecar,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.

When the window will not raise, do you hear the motor trying to run or is it completely dead? Since it takes more power to raise the window than to lower it, it is possible that resistance in the electrical circuit is reducing the motor's power. For example, corrosion on the ground stud and connectors at the base of the left hand A-pillar (behind the plastic trim panel) could reduce the power available to the motor. Corrosion or looseness of the electrical connector at the Driver Window Motor Assembly or a problem with the relay inside the motor assembly could cause your issue.

You can view the schematic on pdf page 117 of the Electrical Guide, which you can download here:

S-Type Electrical Guide MY 2002.5 onward

In the meantime, please visit the New Member Area - Intro a MUST and post a required introduction so we can learn something about you and your Jaguar and give you a proper welcome.

Cheers,

Don

 

As Don has suggested, listen for the motor trying to raise the window, even if just for a brief instance with no actual movement. That would indicate the motor received the command. This will help decide the next step for troubleshooting.

If you hear the motor initially kick in, open the door and try again. When the door is closed, the seals push the window frame outward and can increase binding in the tracks. Opening the door can reduce the effort needed to raise the glass. You'd then have to determine if you've got mechanical binding, a weak motor, reduced voltage, or a combination thereof, but at least you'd have the window closed.

Also, hook up a voltmeter to the battery with the engine off. Try the window again. When the window motor first kicks in, expect to see the available voltage drop briefly, maybe a half volt or so. That will help determine if the motor is receiving the lift command.

If there's no evidence of the motor getting the command, you may have a broken wire in the harness, typically at the hinge area where all the flexing takes place. When the fault is active, open the door and press the button again and hold it. Wiggle the harness and if the broken wire ends make contact and the window goes up, you've found the culprit.

In the meantime, until you can spend some time working on the window with an armed guard present, I'd suggest once the window is up, put some heavy tape across both switches as a reminder to leave it up.

 

I forgot to mention the power windows have a safety feature that can cause problems. If anything blocks the path as the window closes, the motor is designed to stop. The logic is to prevent injury if a child or pet was leaning out the window. I think all newer cars with power windows have this feature.

Not 100% sure how this function is accomplished, but I believe the controller monitors amp draw. If anything limits the glass travel, the motor's current draw jumps up and the controller responds by immediately cutting power. It resets automatically, so all you have to do is push the button again if the restriction is no longer present.

So if you've got mechanical binding, this feature can be triggered. I believe it only works in the lift position, as there's no danger when lowering the glass. Also, a tired or damaged motor can draw extra current, inadvertently triggering this safety feature. Certain types of DC motors can also respond strangely to low supply voltage while under load, drawing too much current. This is no fault of the motor itself, but could be a corroded crimp or loose connector somewhere in the circuit, as previously suggested.

 

That's how I believe it works, too.

 

Hey Everyone,

I finally figured it out and solved the problem. After many headaches it turned out that it was the hose under the supercharger. A pain in the butt to deal with but I am now up and running. I replaced all of the hoses, supercharger gaskets and belts thermostat etc while I was in there. I never want to have to do that job again lol

 

Hi scotster9822,

Congratulations on resolving your issue. I assume since your post has nothing to do with power window operation you intended to post in a different thread. If you will let me know which thread I will move your post so your resolution will appear with "The Rest of the Story."

Cheers,

Don