Oops, i did it again!! customize boot Plinth on a 2004 X-type
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: El Paso/Socorro, Texas
I used a small dremel tool to drill out the area. Also to answer the question on the side mirror flashers. You can see them from the rear. I'll try and post up a picture later on tonight.
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Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 48
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From: El Paso/Socorro, Texas
I live in Texas and so far I haven't been pulled over. But then again, the lights aren't as bright to be mistaken by the reverse lights. I have gotten pulled over for my window tint being too dark.
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Joined: May 2011
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From: ga
I believe Thermo did this a while back using red lights.
From what i remember, to make it water tight (and look good) he placed tape over the front of the plinth, then applied clear silicone to the back. After the silicone was dry, the tape is removed leaving a super smooth and clear finish
From what i remember, to make it water tight (and look good) he placed tape over the front of the plinth, then applied clear silicone to the back. After the silicone was dry, the tape is removed leaving a super smooth and clear finish
I've been busy lately with the little details; just updated the console to a later model with the two cup holders instead of the one--looks good with the later model wood/leather steering wheel.
My replacement boot plinth popped up in the mail yesterday, so I'll get the letters cut out and the LED lighting in behind it over the weekend (70ºF today and tomorrow, accumulating snow tomorrow night into Sunday...gotta love the Pocono Mountains!)
Some quick checking on the lights; since the plinth also contains the license light, which in my state must be white, the letter lighting is simply considered spill from the license light and not a violation, as long as the lighting is indirect. All I need to do is ensure that the LED is not directly aimed through one of the cutouts and I'm golden!
Just swapped all of the lugnuts out again, too. The set I got from Toyota two years ago had bad chrome plating; warranty replacement, so good there!
My replacement boot plinth popped up in the mail yesterday, so I'll get the letters cut out and the LED lighting in behind it over the weekend (70ºF today and tomorrow, accumulating snow tomorrow night into Sunday...gotta love the Pocono Mountains!)
Some quick checking on the lights; since the plinth also contains the license light, which in my state must be white, the letter lighting is simply considered spill from the license light and not a violation, as long as the lighting is indirect. All I need to do is ensure that the LED is not directly aimed through one of the cutouts and I'm golden!
Just swapped all of the lugnuts out again, too. The set I got from Toyota two years ago had bad chrome plating; warranty replacement, so good there!
Some quick checking on the lights; since the plinth also contains the license light, which in my state must be white, the letter lighting is simply considered spill from the license light and not a violation, as long as the lighting is indirect. All I need to do is ensure that the LED is not directly aimed through one of the cutouts and I'm golden!
using relays from amazon
or
I am in the Philippines for a couple of weeks on my return i will post the circuit diagram if you need it.
Last edited by Paulc732; Apr 2, 2016 at 06:36 PM. Reason: added 2 channel relay
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 358
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From: Cleveland, Ohio
Questions:
1) is the black squeegee line to the left of the "COM" on relay # 4 a mistake or a resistor?
2) how are you turning off the red LED when relay #3 is on for reverse? It looks to me like you are turning on relay #1 on (red) with reverse with the jumper on triggers 1 and 3?
3) on the car junction block 5 looks to be reverse, what are 2 and 3?
1) is the black squeegee line to the left of the "COM" on relay # 4 a mistake or a resistor?
2) how are you turning off the red LED when relay #3 is on for reverse? It looks to me like you are turning on relay #1 on (red) with reverse with the jumper on triggers 1 and 3?
3) on the car junction block 5 looks to be reverse, what are 2 and 3?
Questions:
1) is the black squeegee line to the left of the "COM" on relay # 4 a mistake or a resistor?
Mistake
2) how are you turning off the red LED when relay #3 is on for reverse? It looks to me like you are turning on relay #1 on (red) with reverse with the jumper on triggers 1 and 3?
3) on the car junction block 5 looks to be reverse, what are 2 and 3?
3 is tail light (R on with 100 ohm resistor in Series)
2 is reverse (RGB on makes white)
5 is Stop (R on )
1) is the black squeegee line to the left of the "COM" on relay # 4 a mistake or a resistor?
Mistake
2) how are you turning off the red LED when relay #3 is on for reverse? It looks to me like you are turning on relay #1 on (red) with reverse with the jumper on triggers 1 and 3?
3) on the car junction block 5 looks to be reverse, what are 2 and 3?
3 is tail light (R on with 100 ohm resistor in Series)
2 is reverse (RGB on makes white)
5 is Stop (R on )
Last edited by Paulc732; Apr 17, 2016 at 09:18 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 358
Likes: 48
From: Cleveland, Ohio
More questions:
1) are all of the commons tied to (-) ground? (hard to see)
2) are you switching (+) hot on with the key on (motor running)?
3) it looks like the "running" light will be on by relay #2. With the LED being on NC, it will be lit at all times till the brakes are hit?
4) what then make the brighter break light come on?
5) how are you compensating for multiple things happening at the same time? (tail lights on, in reverse and you step on the brakes)
1) are all of the commons tied to (-) ground? (hard to see)
2) are you switching (+) hot on with the key on (motor running)?
3) it looks like the "running" light will be on by relay #2. With the LED being on NC, it will be lit at all times till the brakes are hit?
4) what then make the brighter break light come on?
5) how are you compensating for multiple things happening at the same time? (tail lights on, in reverse and you step on the brakes)
More questions:
1) are all of the commons tied to (-) ground? (hard to see)
Yes we are switching the ground
2) are you switching (+) hot on with the key on (motor running)?
Yes I took the HOT from the loom that supply's the AMP
3) it looks like the "running" light will be on by relay #2. With the LED being on NC, it will be lit at all times till the brakes are hit?
The NC is for always on the NO is if you want it switched
4) what then make the brighter break light come on?
The relays switch the signals bypassing the resistor for Brighter LED
5) how are you compensating for multiple things happening at the same time? (tail lights on, in reverse and you step on the brakes)
The relays do this one relay on for tail one on for Stop and the other for reverse.
as we are using an RGB LED strip it has constant +12V and we switch the -(ground) for desired colour with all tree R+G+B makes white
1) are all of the commons tied to (-) ground? (hard to see)
Yes we are switching the ground
2) are you switching (+) hot on with the key on (motor running)?
Yes I took the HOT from the loom that supply's the AMP
3) it looks like the "running" light will be on by relay #2. With the LED being on NC, it will be lit at all times till the brakes are hit?
The NC is for always on the NO is if you want it switched
4) what then make the brighter break light come on?
The relays switch the signals bypassing the resistor for Brighter LED
5) how are you compensating for multiple things happening at the same time? (tail lights on, in reverse and you step on the brakes)
The relays do this one relay on for tail one on for Stop and the other for reverse.
as we are using an RGB LED strip it has constant +12V and we switch the -(ground) for desired colour with all tree R+G+B makes white
Got the regular plinth on today, just whites at the moment. Backfilled the letter openings with clear plastic casting resin.
I grabbed a strip of multicolor LEDs (in theory, 64k colors at 20 different brightness levels), looking at the controller now. If it can set different combinations for different trigger inputs, that will do the multi-scene mix that we need.
Can't see it being difficult...we've been doing that with stage lighting for a couple of years now. A light show that used to take 1400 PAR cans, a zillion gels, one controller for each group of 4 cans, and three tractor trailers to move (NOT counting the chain hoists!) is down to 120 cans that weight next to nothing, because every color combination that we needed can be programmed into any and every can in the rig instantly...
I grabbed a strip of multicolor LEDs (in theory, 64k colors at 20 different brightness levels), looking at the controller now. If it can set different combinations for different trigger inputs, that will do the multi-scene mix that we need.
Can't see it being difficult...we've been doing that with stage lighting for a couple of years now. A light show that used to take 1400 PAR cans, a zillion gels, one controller for each group of 4 cans, and three tractor trailers to move (NOT counting the chain hoists!) is down to 120 cans that weight next to nothing, because every color combination that we needed can be programmed into any and every can in the rig instantly...
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 174
From: ga
Got the regular plinth on today, just whites at the moment. Backfilled the letter openings with clear plastic casting resin.
I grabbed a strip of multicolor LEDs (in theory, 64k colors at 20 different brightness levels), looking at the controller now. If it can set different combinations for different trigger inputs, that will do the multi-scene mix that we need.
Can't see it being difficult...we've been doing that with stage lighting for a couple of years now. A light show that used to take 1400 PAR cans, a zillion gels, one controller for each group of 4 cans, and three tractor trailers to move (NOT counting the chain hoists!) is down to 120 cans that weight next to nothing, because every color combination that we needed can be programmed into any and every can in the rig instantly...
I grabbed a strip of multicolor LEDs (in theory, 64k colors at 20 different brightness levels), looking at the controller now. If it can set different combinations for different trigger inputs, that will do the multi-scene mix that we need.
Can't see it being difficult...we've been doing that with stage lighting for a couple of years now. A light show that used to take 1400 PAR cans, a zillion gels, one controller for each group of 4 cans, and three tractor trailers to move (NOT counting the chain hoists!) is down to 120 cans that weight next to nothing, because every color combination that we needed can be programmed into any and every can in the rig instantly...
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 16
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From: Glasgow
Last edited by A14LN C; May 3, 2016 at 08:00 PM.
Veteran Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,741
Likes: 174
From: ga
Just remember.... I asked first ;@)
