Lid not latching but gas filler lid opens and door locks open & lock so not a fuse.
"Trunk open" lights up on instrument panel but stays in dreaded LIMP MODE after 30 min. Waiting for wife to bring OBDII tool to attempt code reset.
Have trunk partially tied down.

Any ideas or details on repairing trunk latch mechanism? Wow, open trunk lid fault designed to shut down entire car?

 

I doubt it's the trunk causing the limp mode fault.
I've had mine tied with oversize stuff in the boot many times.

 

Well that's good to know - but this repetitive limp mode with no apparent cause is aggravating!

 

Is the MIL on? If so, what DTCs are stored in the system?

Quite often an engine misfire can cause the vehicle to go into limp mode.

Also, what is the age and condition of the battery? A failing or weak battery can cause random DTCs to be set. With the ignition in the off position, the battery should show at least 12.2 volts across the terminals. If not, the battery must be replaced.

 

I quit guessing at mystery cars. I read the post and still cannot figure out what car we are talking about.

bob

 

I'm not sure why my signature didn't show up but I posted from my phone. I have a 2005 4.2 w/ 64k miles.
- wife took car shopping but trunk wouldn't close for her
- went to switch cars and finally tied lid almost closed, computer noted trunk open
- car entered limp mode for me within 50ft
- dry warm weather, no rain for months or wash for 6 days
- tried letting car sit to reset but no luck this time
- tried clearing P2135 code w/ OBDII tool but would only drive for 100ft before code returned
- had to get a tow home
- will take out and test TPS tomorrow
- it's kept on trickle charger at night and battery seems to hold about 12.3v after a day of sitting
- would still appreciate any repair tips on latch failure and/or pics. Latch makes slight sound when switch is pressed. Don't see any loose springs sticking out. If latch is not repairable, is it difficult to replace?

 

12.3 is a bad sign.

A battery is quite cheap unless you would be happy should it turn out that you chased your tail pointlessly for a while.

I would NOT mess with TPS etc unless I had already fitted a new battery.

 

Bought new trunk latch at Jaguar dealer (they double checked PN against VIN) and new Bosch battery - NOT from dealer.

Installed latch but trunk won't open with either remote or dash buttons and checked to ensure that valet switch is off. Trunk Open DTC is still displayed on dash when lid is closed. Luckily I can still open trunk with key.

Burnt electrical smell started filling cabin so I disconnected latch and that seemed to stop it. Can't see or find any overheated or burnt wires and the 3-wire connector only goes on one way.

Dealer is ordering new latch but they say they've never heard of this happening, anyone here?!

The old battery is on a trickle charger so I know it's got enough juice to power the latch.

Anyone know where the trunk lid closed sensor is located? Is the sensor located in the latch itself?

It doesn't appear that any latch alignment is possible but is there any electrical reset necessary? Thanks in advance.

 

Take a look at the harness where it comes into the boot near the hinge.
Others have had problems with damaged and broken wires there.

 

Like this

 

Thanks, I'll check that out tomorrow.

Does anyone know where the lid closed sensor is located?

 

yes its the rubber covered button that protrudes out of the lower edge of the boot/trunk lid. just to the right of the center latch .

 

Well, it turns out that the trunk ajar switch is located INSIDE the trunk latch on my model - no booted switch nor rubber buttons anywhere. It took 2 latches from the dealer to solve the problem since the first one was defective.

Luckily, no burnt or damaged wires either as burnt electronic smell came from the first new replacement switch.

Now, if my recurring TPS fault goes away because of the new battery I'll be a happy camper. Thanks all!