When I got my intake tube I had it ceramic coated which was supposed to not heat up as much or something like that.

http://www.jet-hot.com/

 

Painting it black will make it absorb engine bay heat more effectively, cancel out the anti-alien effects and give you ear cancer from cell phone radiation.

 

Aluminum.

You don't want the aliens scanning your MAF signal and using that information to take over the earth!

 

Don't you all know, they are already here. (Cue the eeery music)



But, apparently, they only talk to cows, and Cartman.

Actually, news flash, I am now patent pending on a more practical version of my intake air cooling SCRAMJET idea, so this intake is only temporary. Also, this is wayyyyyyyyyyyy too ugly to be paired with the painted charge coolers that will be going on later.

I'll replace it with a prototype of the SCRAMJET when I get that far.

 

Since I have been getting numerous PM requests about wiring my 92mm MAF I'm adding this info:

Here is how I wired my 92mm MAF successfully using their pigtail connector:

Wires on the 92 Pro M--------Wires on stock MAF
A: power-------white, blue stripe
B: Ground
C:Ground
D: MAF signal--------Green, white stripe
E: IAT voltage---------Orange This wires to replacement IAT sensor to original harness/connector
F: Ground

I really like to use these awesome connectors so you don't screw up the original wires, these posi-taps are the way to go!
Posi-Tap- No Crimp Tap

WhiteXKR introduced me to these connectors-they are the best!

 

Me likies.

 

Would there be any issues running the ProM 92mm MAF on my 2003 XKR? Would I need the additional IAT Sensor?

 

[QUOTE=ET1;1585212]Would there be any issues running the ProM 92mm MAF on my 2003 XKR? Would I need the additional IAT Sensor?[/QUOTE

No issues if your engine is 4.0. You need additional IAT sensor.

 

I bought my larger MAF from Pro-M. It appears to be a very good unit, but be aware that you will need to source and wire a separate IAT sensor, as the PRO-M one is not correct for the Jags. I bought my sensor at the dealer part # LCC1602AA at Gaudin in Nevada for $74.

 

Finally finished the fuel rail and Eaton rebuild and reinstalled everything and it runs fine.

I'm trying to install my Pro M 92mm intake and realize that I got a 4 wire pigtail from Pro M.

That's what Chris at Pro M told me I needed.

I notice that Water Dragon has a 6 wire pigtail on his Pro M.

I got the separate IAT sensor to splice in.

Three questions:

Do I need the 6 or 4 wire pigtail?

Do I need the external IAT sensor wired in?

I have the wiring diagram or schematic that Water Dragon posted for the 4.0l. Is it the same for the 4.2l?

**This a 2003 XKR 4.2L AJ34 engine.

 

Circuits are in the free download workshop manual and other sites on the net - you failed to say your car but it covers them all. 99.9% you need every sensor.

 

Thanks JagV8, got the schematic and it looks like the harness is the same on the 4.0 and 4.2.

ANYONE? Is the 4 wire pigtail appropriate for my 2003 XKR with the 4.2 vs the 6 wire?
I have it hooked up and it runs, albeit with Restricted Performance and a P0103 Code
Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input"

 

Hi All,

I've read all the posts about installing the Pro M and wiring it correctly but can't get it right for installing my Pro M 92 MM intake. I keep getting P0102, P0103 (high and low input signal) and P0112 ( low signal from IAT sensor.) and restricted performance..of course.

I tried to zoom in on the wiring pic posted by Water Dragon, but it's blurry and the wires are all wrapped in black tape.

I have a 2003 XKR 4.2 and when I asked Chris @ Pro M for a schematic of how to hook it up this is what he sent. See email and diagram.

It seems incomplete and I asked whether I need the 4 or 6 wire pigtail for the intake. His response is in the attachment... not clear to me. The 4 wire schematic/diagram he sent is totally different from Water Dragon's description of the Pro M wiring schematic.
I do have the IAT probe.

Any advice or a pic of exactly what connects to what?

Thanks,

Evan
I'm calling him tm bright and early.

 

As Chris mentioned, the Pro-M IAT (Intake Air Temp sensor) is different to our cars, so not usable. The wire colours given for your 2003MY look good to me, are you sure you connected it correctly?

 

@avos, I may have fried the unit miswiring it. It's back at Pro M, where they will recalibrate, or repair it.

 

I have the PRO M 92mm meter back after damaging it and followed Pro M's wiring diagram EXACTLY and now have only "Restricted Performance" and a P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input. (See pix)

I didn't even start the car and had this warning pop up with the key turned on to accessories/system test position.

When I reinstall my OEM meter, the car runs perfectly with no codes.

PRO M says the problem is on my end.

What am I missing???? Any wiring advice????

 

With a multimeter, what voltage do you measure between Red and Black/brown, and Blue and Black/Brown with ignition on?

What happens if you start the car?

 

@Avos, Pro M is out and OEM is in so I can use the car. I will reinstall Thursday or Friday and answer your queries then. I didn't want to start the car until I was sure the connections were correct. I didn't want to damage the meter again.

To be clear: "With a multimeter, what voltage do you measure between Red and Black/brown, and Blue and Black/Brown with ignition on?"

"Ignition on" = car NOT started, correct?

 

Indeed, 1st measure only with ignition on, so no start.

 

@Avos

"With a multimeter, what voltage do you measure between Red and Black/brown, and Blue and Black/Brown with ignition on?
What happens if you start the car?"

Voltage between Red and Black/Brown is 11.85

Voltage between Blue and Black/Brown is 0.02

Car stalls after repeated attempts to start and clear codes.

I also checked the Vehicle blue/white lead against the ground (Black/white) lead with neither meter connected and and got a solid 11.75V.

Suggestions?