So a while back I took my '96 XJ6 LHD to the dealer after replacing the TPS and IACV for an orientation. They told me they could not complete it because one of my O2 sensors, specifically the sensor in Bank D, needed to be replaced. Does anyone know which of the 4 is bank d? And what is the best o2 sensor to replace it with? Thanks guys!

 

I've not heard of "D Bank"

Cylinders 1-3 would be "Bank 1" or perhaps "A Bank". Cylinders 4-6 would be "Bank 2" or perhaps "B Bank"

The upstream sensor for each bank is "Sensor 1". The downstream sensor is "Sensor 2". So, in the nomenclature I'm accustomed to, you might have (for example) a "Bank 1, sensor 2" problem.

Cheers
DD

 

By the way, make sure you get the correct titania oxygen sensor....not the more common zirconia.

I've replaced only one on my car, using a Bosch 13789. Other chices are out there from about $80-$150 each

Cheers
DD

 

Ok thanks for the info DOug! I will be purchasing that o2 sensor on amazon.
Amazon.com: Bosch 13789 Oxygen Sensor, OE Type Fitment: Automotive

 

I just replaced one of the down stream sensors with that exact one from amazon, i can confirm it is the correct one also you may want to take this time to relocate the O2 sensor connectors that are on the rear of the engine THEY ARE A PAIN TO GET TO.

Here is a basic procedure for that O2 sensor connector move

O2 SENSOR MOVE

 

I am replacing the sensor in bank d and thought Id share this image which shows where the o2 sensors are and their identification


1997 Jaguar XJ-page-001 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

wondering if anyone has any special tips or trick tools they use to remove the bank 2 downstream sensor... everything is so tight from under the car it impossible to get an open ended wrench on the sensor... I do agree the wires routed along the back side of the engine are a bit of pain - routing the wiring is not bad but undoing and redoing the connectors on the drivers side rear is an ugly procedure..

 

 

Crowsfoot and some extensions makes it easier

 

I'm going to have to see if I can find one of those nifty tools...

 

I think 17mm is the correct size you're looking for. I was able to find a full set from 10-20 mm for a mere 20 usd or so. I have 2 sensors on the downpipe. Tackled one from underneath the car and the other from top with the help of some long extensions

 

With the trouble you are going through I would the ask the mechanic specifically why the sensor needs to be changed . Could be he just threw something at you like a kanuter valve . The wires get easily crossed and it could if there is an issue with the sensors be as simple as reconnecting to the correct position . I'll look it up later .

Is the issue as you try to remove them a mater of leverage or can't get an open end on it ? With leverage you can take a second open end and hook it into the box end of the first . Be carefull as you do this as if you are a small angle off a flat plane of the 2 it will decouple and rip the skin off you're knuckles . Ware a glove .

I used a crescent wrench inside a short pipe I beat into an oval shape .

My sensors are off so I'll get you the size .

Soak with some penetrating oil overnight or heat it up around it with a propane torch . The little ones are cheap and handy other then the traditional large bottle ones .

If the threads are galled ( common as mine are and advice from a muffler shop ) as you get it out I would be hesitant to put a new sensor in a bad hole hense returning to the reason for removal and correct connector location .

Antiseize

On the AJ16 engine the #1 cylinder is the forward most position ( opposite of the AJ6 ? ) . So the B1S1 ( bank 1 sensor 1 ) is on that pipe forward of the forward Cat . On the ECU side of the connectors they have the same wire colors with exception of the one important return signal wire to the ECU . B1S1 Green , B2S1 Brown , B1S2 Blue , B2S2 Red . Best to follow with hands and eyes to the installed pipe position . Look for some corrosion of the B1S2 and B2S2 connectors behind the back of the valve cover .

The crush washers can be sourced from a 12 mm spark plug . I have a cheap Motorcraft plug # but will have to find it

Torque Adaptor is another tool you can use .They come in different lengths of 3 and 6 inch and open end is available but are not safe as they slip off the item as you lose track of the force applied angle . Recommend 6 point before the points are damaged .

https://store.snapon.com/Torque-Adaptors-C796465.aspx

Ref wire diagram .

 

670 / 1000 inch on this sensor is 17 mm . 687.5 / 1000 is 11/16 but may be too loose as you don't want to round the points in this application .

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/in...nts-d_471.html

Stripping the clear coat off the dimple wheels to really polish the bare metal up and respray them . Big difference as I could not buff out with compound the old clear coat

 

The wires on the sensor are a special galvinized type that are brittle so don't twist as you thread off and on so you have to keep the wires straight . Mine was damaged this way after I removed the insulation to see it from the previous owner .