You bet Warren! I think the zinc plating is a nice 'gold' look and gives it a little 'bling'. I already have an expectation for when the TÜV inspector does his import check over... Oh, now zis is not very Yaguar. Vhere is ze oil!? Zis does not leak!

This will purr like a kitty and should give me a nice long ownership with very little issues when running again. A lot more to do yet though! My plan is to have the engine running by mid 2018. Then the rear axle is due. Hopefully to be finished by the 22nd of September 2019, as that would be the 30th birthday *

 

My A6 compressor i now in bits...



More here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1769764

 

New Headliner is in right before winter storage.

 

Had my replacement front subframe returned from the shotblasters. Mmmm clean:



It's nice actually being able to handle a part of my XJS without needing gloves!
I've just covered it in a nice layer of Epoxy Mastic 121.

 

Andrew
What does it cost to have it blasted, roughly?
Greg

 

Quoted £40 for just the subframe. I had the suspension arms, spring pans & engine mount brackets done too for £80 all in. Worth mentioning this was proper sand blasting, leaving the rough sand blast finish on all parts, even those without rust, so probably not suited to machined surfaces.

I had it done at A & C shotblasting, Newbury.

 

I paid EUR 50 incl. 19% VAT for my subframe to be blasted. Probldm is, it depemds on HOW much is to be removed and what material etc. Most places do it on a time base...

 

I've bought a few more parts...

New rear cylinder head for the A6 compressor (a whopping €3.60 from Jaguar!!!)
New set of gaskets for the compressor from Jaguar
New set of uprated gaskets for the compressor from GM
New bearing for the compressor tensioner pulley
Some more screws and bolts

I'm not sure whether to replace the pulley and clutch with a new part or to remove the bearing and have the rusty bits blasted!? As they are balanced parts, removing rust will possibly cause an imbalance which can leak to the crankshaft of the compressor slowly warping/bending and end up with a nasty problem. The clutch seems okay. Slight bit or rust on the mating surface but that would rub away when it is all refitted and working again.

 

Changed oils,(engine, tranmission, differential, brakes), coolant, valve cover gasket , starter, timing chain tensioner and I am broken now

 

Trying to get an idea of how o operate the rear windows independently of the roof to work. Waiting for some relays to arrive..

 

Advertised the pos for sale. Hopefully it will stay running long enough to unload.

 

You sound about as happy with yours as I'am with mine. Obviously for different reasons, but still!

 

I got my CocoMats in today.

 

Fixed (I hope) my passenger door lock today. It was acting up, and finally refused to lock at all with the remote fob, so I had to use the actual key. Checked some threads here on the forums, and, armed with those, my Big Green ROM, some Simple Green, shampoo (for slickening up the armrest), and some silicone grease, I removed the door card (helped a lot having done it a few times before for the speaker replacement), and tried to find what was wrong.

Nothing stood out--all the rods were in place, but the mechanism was still balking. So I cleaned it as well as I could, greased it, fiddled with it, pushed and pulled here and there, tried the key fob a few times, then the physical key in the door, and that seemed to do it. The doors now lock and unlock normally. In fact, I may be deluding myself, but they seem smoother, quicker--the passenger one always seemed half a second slower, but not now.
I hope I'm not deluding myself, and that the lock really is fixed. Absent an obvious cause, and having fixed it mainly by jiggery-pokery, I'm somewhat pessimistic....

 

I have done the same thing on other cars where I cycled the lock linkage very fast for several minutes. It helps by reducing the total friction in the linkage the lock motor has to move.

 

I gather it's basically a case of not being used as much as the driver's side, though why that is a thing when the central locking opens everything, I am not entirely sure.... But yes, movement always helps.

 

My passenger door lock was rusted inlocked as I got it. With lots of Güsol I managed to remove the rust and protect it from rusting again. Now the drivers side is stiffer... So there next

I paid for some more sandblasting today. Compressor case is now rustfree. A few dents in it but it is a compressor. I am sure I can knock them out!

 

New compressor clutch for my Harrison A6... Though a part is still missing (coil). This is from a 1969 Chevy Bel Air

 

I finally got my Jaguar running this weekend! Oh the joy to hear it run. Rebuilt the alternator, put it in and didnt crank. Put the battery charger on and still nothing. Found out a connector to the start relay was off. Plugged it in and fired up.

Also fixed my tach as it wasn't working either.

 

The Harrison A6 air condition ng compressor is now gleaming like new! Fresh rubber, new clutch, new bearing, new modern double lip GM seal, ...