Can someone review the " Hard Reset " for me in case I'm not currently doing it right . Engine rotating but no ignition with starter fluid test , therefor I think it's inhibited and not immobilized on this US model .

M'Lady P wants to watch and cry during the Royal Wedding because she misses home and I need to put her in the garage so she can watch the tele without putting the tele out in the end of the driveway . That would be weird .

Inertia switch jumpered

Good battery voltage

Connector above fuel tank secured

Thanks in advance , Parker , Lady Penelope's mechanic

 

You probably are doing it right but my view is that "Hard Reset" is an Urban Myth.



It does get banded about frequently as a suggestion for all sorts of ills, but having been a reader/contributor to this forum for more than 6 years I honestly cannot remember anyone ever reporting that a hard reset fixed anything. I have seen lots of "I did a hard reset but no difference" posts.



I may have missed something so happy to be proven wrong.

 

It seemed to work in the past concerning security issues , which I believe I have now after messing with the wires as I researched on my test article for others .

One thing I never got squared in my head is that the king relays are going to relax and open up the circuit to the effected systems as you remove the battery terminal . The hot at all time items are not .

Never was a TSB that I know of

Security SLCU module is hot at all times

 

Hi Parker,

Hard resets are tried for many symptoms but apparently only "work" for certain issues. Jaguar does specifically call for a hard reset in certain service documentation, though I don't recall whether I've seen it for an X300. The most recent instance I have dealt with was TSB 1-186 issued 11/2004 for X-Types and later models. Under certain conditions when attempting to use WDS/IDS/SDD to restore communications with the ECM or other modules, page 7 of this TSB gives the following instructions:



Electrically, I'm not sure why you have to disconnect the positive battery cable. If you disconnect the negative cable and touch it to the positive cable terminal, the battery is out of the circuit. Can you think of a reason both terminals must be disconnected?

I recall reading somewhere in Jaguar service documentation that the cables should be kept in contact for some minimum amount of time, but I can't recall how long. I usually go for a minimum of 2 minutes just to give all keep-alive-memory capacitors time to fully discharge. I assume the capacitors are protected from sudden discharge by resistors in their circuits. If I don't want to stand there holding the cable terminals together, I use a jumper cable clamp to keep them in contact.

There has been some discussion of whether the key should be off or in Position II when doing a hard reset. I don't recall ever reading in a Jaguar document that the key should be in Position II, but it would be worth thinking about the implications of doing so. I recall Brutal recommending that we do a hard reset with the key off, then turn the key to Position II and touch the battery cables together again, then turn the key to off and reconnect the negative battery cable.

Regarding your cranks-but-won't-start, how low is the battery voltage sagging while cranking?

Have you checked all your fuses? It's easy to blow one while messing with the wires.

Any chance one of the connectors by the windshield washer reservoir was left disconnected?

P.S. I just did a search of the X300 Workshop Manual and found this interesting instruction in the airbag service section: "Before starting work, ensure ignition switch is in 'lock' position, key is removed and negative battery terminal cable is disconnected from the battery. As the airbag is equipped with a back up power source and due to the risk of the airbag being inadvertently deployed, wait one minute or more before starting work." This would seem to suggest that during a hard reset, we should keep the negative and positive cables together for at least one minute.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the Jaguar technical reference on the item .

I prefer the both terminal method as it is easier to remember correctly in the heat of battle

There are digital latches labeled S or Q besides the stored energy state capacitors inside the ECUs .

Battery sag in the cockpit gauge is alot and got my attention before but main power cables should be intact . Did alot of engine bay cleaning so the firewall terminals are already oxidizing . I will clean . Battery positive cable clamp stretched so installed " shims "

Papa Indy 1 and 61 connected

I need to sit down and concentrate on the engine bay final inspection , but concentration lacking currently .

I got some funny readings on the trunk fuse box I never nailed down but I do have a good king relay in place and clicks and swapped . Thrunk fuse box is where the SLCU gets it's couple of power sources from . Door locks cycle so that is s sign it's getting some power if not all sources . Need to pull the side carpet for the SLCU connectors and work my way backwards .

I have new airbags installed but never connected until I had the correct procedure so I'll look into that .

Sometimes you need someone to hold your hand and point the way , but not like my uncle . Mom sad that was not OK .

 

Don ,
your point of sagging voltage is a good one . Noticed from before from the instrument gauge that was so large it couldn't be true . Flagged to me at the time of testing that it's not high enough to run the ECU pegged at 9 volts on the gauge . Tested today with a digital meter on the terminal post on the firewall to the starter and drops down to 9.5 volts on starter rotation . From a battery charge of 12.65 volts ( but then this battery brand only lasted a year before replacing it again on the same car )

It's true , it's true I had to steal this from you Carnival Kid . LMAO


Going to pull a starter from a donor X300 at the salvage yard Tuesday . A spare if not required at this time wouldn't be a bad idea in the years of service down the road . Maybe will be able to find the components for rebuilding if it is a sudden onset starter problem .

 

Hi Parker,

Do you think the voltage sag is caused by a bad starter, or could the starter be fine and the problem be with the battery, charging system or battery power and ground connections?

Cheers,

Don

 

Working through some dental pain but I will try the easiest first in removing the battery for a visit to the parts store test . Then I'll revisit original positive terminal post clamp as is marginal . There is a donor car I can pull it's terminal clamp from .

 

Update : Battery test OK on load meter . Installed battery terminal shim caps that I didn't know existed . With a 12.70 volt battery charge and the same at the starter terminal post it still drops to 9.5 volts during starter rotation . Not enough voltage for the ECU

Next step : starter removal and a light overhaul deep cleaning and sanding of the commuter contacts .

Any removal tricks on the X300 ?

Found a good reference :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...en-plas-92611/