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As far as maximizing the access to the fuel lines going into the tank from underneath. I believe I have read every post.
1. If I support the car from the outside body seams with jackstands, rather than from the differential with one big jack, will the rear end hang lower and improve access?
2. When people say I can improve access by lowering the shocks, can I get an initial quick half inch simply loosening the 4 shock tower bolts halfway in combination with one above?
3. What is the next least difficult way to pick up another half inch of clearance. A half inch to an inch more total clearance will allow my hand to fit.
4. I know some aggressive individuals cut access to the fuel pump on hardtops, can I cut access to these disconnects from behind the seat on a convertible?
Background: I painfully removed the tank and replaced the pump but now these connection(s), which I never even looked at, are secure but leak. Now I have 4 more hours, 4 different brands of disconnect fittings, 2 custom aluminum and PVC assist tools, and I cant even get one of them disconnected a second time. I really don't want to remove the mufflers or disconnect the differential to get another .5-1 inch clearance... I am 62 working on the ground alone. This is a cruiser I don't race.
Wayne (cjd777) and I replaced the fuel pump in his 2000 XK8 in January 2020 with the rear end up on jackstands. He used the Harbor Freight 22" flatblade screwdriver to detach (and later reattach) the two fuel line connections underneath, then I slowly and carefully lifted and pulled the fuel tank rearwards in order to create the necessary access down into the tank for him to remove and replace the fuel pump....
He used his bench grinder to grind a curve into the tip of that long screwdriver. With the curved tip, it fit into the fuel line connection sockets perfectly and he managed to release them in just a minute or two. Before we went to Harbor Freight and purchased that screwdriver, we had tried other methods (fuel line plastic disconnect tools) for close to an hour without success....
With that long and skinny screwdriver you do not have to be as concerned with having enough room for your hands down underneath the fuel lines (although I remember it is indeed very tight down there)....
Can you get some assistance from a friend? This is one of those jobs that is less challenging if you have four hands available instead of just two, even if all one person does is hold the flashlight in the proper position so the other person can see better....
I have been using the 22" HF flathead to try to push in the disconnect fitting. I got it to work twice but now can't seem to repeat the trick after hours of trying.
As several tynes on the stuffer pin encircle the fuel line at the detent, it doesn't make sense to me to use a tool that will only release a few tynes at a time - they are supposed to snap back and not stay released. I'm not saying it won't work, just that it makes less sense - I'm willing to give it a try!
I believe the fittings are not stiff enough to release all the detents when pressed from one side with a screwdriver.
I was pressing the fitting from the right, and then from the left (it seemed to wedge in place), and then pulled on the fuel tank to release them previously. Its not working now, and I have now been warned about kinking the No Longer Available fuel lines...
I am now going across town for the specific Lisle 37000 disconnect set Gus recommends.
As Jon mentioned, it's not easy but I did find the easy access onto the pipes by the left hand was from the right side of the car, feet out the back and up through a hole between the axle and sway bar. You are pretty much just laying on your side. If you will get a 4X4 and use a towel for your neck or the back of your head, it makes it so much easier to hold position to push the lines back in a straight line into the tank. Be sure to grab the lines and feel of any play, they should be solid. Oh, and pushing the spring with that long sharpened and curved screwdriver was our answer.
If you already have them in place, no need to pull they out again, just continue to go from where you are and push tthem back in place.
Good luck.
The cut a hole trick does not provide access to the fuel lines disconnect? Shame on me, I always assumed it did and built that into my cost benefits decision to use that method when the time comes.
This would've been a nasty surprise. I just need to 2x check. Thanks!
The hole that owners of the convertible cut is for direct access to the top of the fuel tank, with the hole cut you can change the pump/pumps with out having to remove the flow and return fuel lines from under the fuel tank with the disconnect tool, also you dont need to remove other things to move the tank in to the boot.
I have a coupe, so i use the sub woofer hole to change the pump/pumps (no need to disconnect flow/return pipes)
if i had a convertible i would cut the hole and not bother with the flow/return pipe disconnect,.. others would NOT cut the hole...(your car you choose)
Unfortunately for thenas007 (thread starter) he didnt cut the hole and decided to remove the flow/return pipes with the disconnect method.
As far as i know, there is no way to cut a hole to help with the disconnect of the flow/return fuel pipes.
Above photo is of the flow/return pipes that you need to disconnect if you dont cut the hole to change the pump/pumps
I was under the car for 3 days, trying multiple methods. I am an engineer and decided that if I cause damage cutting access to the fuel line disconnects I will fix it.
Completely emptied the tank and blew out area with compressed air, left fan blowing on the area overnight then stuffed a wet rag in by the fuel line connections.
There is a double wall of metal plus two fairly weak cross car braces and a heat shield. After getting half done with a 4.5 " HF cutoff wheel (4 discs) I went to the 6" 11 amp wheel.
Cobbled her up good but I will make a pretty thick sheet metal cover and cross car brace when through. I know I just compromised my protection from lots of bad things and need to fix it.
There is a huge 3/0 battery cable clipped just above and left of the tranny tunnel you will hit. Of course you disconnected the battery.
There is not a lot of space in a jag back seat - I was actually more sore after a couple of hours of cutting than all that time under the car.
Cut off tools are very dangerous! They throw tons of fire starting sparks. You need to be fully clothed with gloves and face shield - you can lose a finger in a split second - they can buck like crazy. Protect yourself!! Protect the interior of your car!
Pull your tank a couple inches out toward the back or you may cut your fuel lines.
Please don't attempt this. I had fixed my pump and reinstalled and the connections leaked, wouldn't budge, Then I invested 14 more hours before I gave up and went invasive. Mostly because I couldn't face doing it a third or fourth time from beneath the car.
$2443 and a month wait at my dealer. $1500 and 2 weeks wait at the Indy who would have very limited experience if he ran into the problems I did.
Cable requires a 3/0 Copper to Aluminum butt splice - you won't find it on google but a good electrical supply will have. Must be CUTAL (Copper to Aluminum) compatible and get the screws not the crimp model $20.
First observation is the fuel tank may sit with the fuel lines pressed against the firewall. I may have had better luck if I pulled the tank out an inch and created room for the lines to back out. I was on my back under the car with a one inch by 4 inch opening (propped up from the differential and jack stands on the sides. If I went to just jack stands I would lose a couple inches of height because the jack would have to raise the car to remove the jackstands. 16" locking pliers would not reach or turn or do anything once in the hole. 18 ' angled pliers could kind of be hooked around the gas line loop and pulled but interfered with the space needed for the disconnect. I dont think trying to grab the lines to more positively work the disconnect is possible without more access, and may cobble the lines. Experienced people must drop the suspension for more underneath access.
The other issue is I may have to do this a couple more times to be sure it doesn't leak - previously didn't leak with 5 gallons and then did after I filled up - that was dangerous!
I will try the disconnects with the improved access this evening. I have new stuffer pins and seals coming this weekend if necessary.
Has anyone seen a pic of the trunk with the tank out? Just curious where the structural bracing and wires are...
If you remove the large tank supporting plate in the boot, the plate that secures the tank into position, you can view everything youll need to view (and unplug) to feel confident in creating the hole from above. There will be (from memory) 2 plugs that attach to sensors and power source for the pump on top of the assembly. Unplug them and move them off to the side. Then, do the cutting.
I didn't bother with the big drill and barrel bit. I used the small 3inch style cutting wheel. There are vents between the back dash and the space for the boot (you'll see them with carpet off/out) and my approach left the vent holes in a way that my CUT section could be easily bent/lifted up temporarily to access and remove the pump unit. Makes it easy peasy to change pumps.
My God, what a horror story ! I can't wait to get to the conclusion. I feel for you naz007. Sometimes it seems like you can't go forward and you can't go back, but you gotta do what you gotta do. Best of luck !
My God, what a horror story ! I can't wait to get to the conclusion. I feel for you naz007. Sometimes it seems like you can't go forward and you can't go back, but you gotta do what you gotta do. Best of luck !
I know it sounds crazy, but since I don't have a lift, I just dropped the rear subframe. I figured it was guaranteed to work, and no uncertainty as to how long it would take. It's well described in JTIS, and was much quicker than I expected. After you have disconnected the exhaust hangers (which are tough, I needed ratcheting wrench on bolt and spanner on nut and universal jointed wrists) the rest is simple and pretty quick. Fuel lines then take about 2 secs each with a disconnect tool. I dropped mine using a trolley jack and large block of wood with car high on rear axle stands, but using a $100 scissor transmission jack (e.g. HF) would make it even easier, and much quicker to line up when putting the subframe back. Plus you can top up the diff, change bushings, etc. Anyway, best of luck.
Post 12.... WOW.... That must of taking some doing.
Unfortunate about the battery cable been cut, could this be replaced with a new or second hand one from a breaker yard car.
One day you will be driving down the road with a big smile on your face.
Until that that day comes, you can have a half smile on your face, knowing there are people willing you on to get this sorted.
OK. Once I could access and get both hands on the disconnect and fuel line it still took a few minutes each to disconnect.
The lines were a little bent but not too bad. One of the four retaining tynes was a little flat in each of the stuffer pins I pried it up even with the others.
I was a little daunted by replacing the stuffer pins. Getting all the tiny seals out of each and the new ones back in place looked possible but tricky. I was of the opinion my problem was the tynes, and now that they were even (and I had quick access if they were not) I would give them a try. Even hands on it takes a directed shove to get the line to click in. One line inserted better with the disconnect, one worked better without. The audible clicks were confidence inspiring.
Immediately had a gas leak - forgot to reattach the fuel filter.
2 gallons no problem. 6 gallons no problem. Filled up the tank and it didn't leak. Started the car and gas started pouring down from over the disconnects, from the top of the tank. I instantly realized it was the fuel pump seal. Removed the disconnects and the tank and the fuel pump and carefully made sure the fuel pump seal stayed in place for the reinstall. No problem since.
I read a ton of threads and never saw cutting a flap in the rear shelf as an option for replacing the pump in a convertible. I realize it is tacky. Would have prevented me removing the gas lines and gas tank 3 times, and cutting access to my fuel lines at the tank. I was so consumed with the damn fuel line disconnects that I didn't consider the fuel pump seal until it stared me in the face.
99 XK8 Fuel Pump Removal Clarification
