For anyone interested...

As talked about in the following thread around the now known concerns around pulling fuse 15 (i.e.: To keep the back exhaust valves open), one solution to the problem is to install a valve controller from ASR -->

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...emoval-290806/

Here is the specific ASR RX1 valve controller some of us are installing as a remedy to the problems discussed in that thread:

https://asr-component.de/gb/begin/31...-type_1_type_2

I just finished successfully installing it on my 2024 R. All is well. Completely plug and play. Everything worked as described. I like that it remembers the setting I had when I last shut down the car, so I don't need to remember to open the valves again like I did with the Claws Out setup I was using before for the fuse 15 pulling. I also programmed it to my Homelink garage door opener buttons for a nice integrated feel. That worked as expected as well.

I have attached a PDF from the workshop manual that shows the info concerning the removal of the trunk area trim panels, which is required to get this ASR device installed.

GUIDE:

Note, my attached pictures are in order and pick up basically from step 5 in the attached workshop manual info onward...

1) Before doing anything be sure to follow the pre-installation info in the ASR documentation. It gives steps there for ensuring that the car is fully asleep before doing the install. NOTE, for some reason I was only provided instructions in German. Not convenient at all, but I just used google translate. No doubt they would have helped me out if I had contacted them, but I didn't bother. Google translate did fine.

2) Remove the tonneau cover from the trunk area to get it out of your way and then follow steps 1-4 as depicted in the attached workshop manual info (pretty straightforward).

3) For step 5 in the workshop manual info it is a bit less clear, at least it was to me. It seems to indicate that you have to detach something from the safety pull handle, but I didn't end up doing that (i.e.: A tip I got from visie on the forum here when he did his install). As it turns out the wire/cable behind is long enough where you don't have to detach anything (i.e.: Once the piece is off you can just move it aside out of your way). I didn't need any tools at all. You just need to pull the piece forward towards the front of the car carefully. I started on one side and pulled carefully. Then I went to the other side and did the same. At that point the 2 depicted fasteners in the middle were still fastened, and then I carefully pulled forward in the middle. Presto, it was off. The 2 fastener you see in my hand in the first picture are those 2 depicted fasteners in the middle of the piece in the workshop manual info. They were loose so I took them out completely and put them aside so as to not lose them. The other 4 fasteners (i.e.: 2 on each end of the trim piece) stayed in tact and together for me and were not loose at all.

4) Step 6 in the workshop manual info depicts that you should remove the entire rubber seal. That is NOT necessary. Leave the rubber seal alone for now. We'll come back to it later on below.

5) Remove the piece depicted in step 7 of the workshop manual info. I wasn't originally quite clear how that came off. The clips are such that you simply need to pull it directly to the right, as can be seen in my images. It comes off quite easily. I started at the very back of the piece towards where I was standing at the back of the car and unclipped the first clip, and then I worked my way towards the front of the car (unclipping the rest of the clips slowly and carefully).

6) Remove the screw depicted in step 8 of the workshop manual info and put it and the handle assembly that comes off aside.

7) Step 9 of the workshop manual info depicts the removal of the last big trim piece that needs to come off. There is a metal clip on this piece that is covered over by the rubber seal. See my picture showing this (4th picture). Just pull the rubber seal up carefully only in the depicted area to expose the clip. Carefully unclip the metal clip. It comes off really easily.

8) Once the metal clip is off only pull the back part of the panel forward from the left approximately the distance depicted in my 5th image. You don't want to go any further, as a light needs to be disconnected first before doing so.

9) Carefully disconnect the light connection shown in my images. At this point you can remove the trim piece completely out of the way to expose the wiring harness of the car.

10) The darker green connector towards the back of the car on that now exposed side is what needs to be used to connect the ASR device in. This plug is clearly indicated in the ASR documentation. At this point you need to unplug the car's male connector from the female plug. For some reason this was not easy to do in my case. It was awkward. In the end I carefully climbed into the back of the car (be really careful if you go this route, not a lot of room and lots of things to step on and break). That made it less awkward, and eventually I was able to carefully get it out while pressing the tab on the top of the plug there. It's not rocket science obviously, but I found it a pain for whatever the reason. Mileage may vary on this.

11) Then you simply need to plug in the male plug of the ASR to the car's female and the original male connector of the car to the female connector of the ASR device (shown in my 11th image).

12) My last 2 images show how I chose to route the ASR cable and place the device itself. I took care to not have the device rest on any wires incase it ever ran hot or anything (i.e.: Never know, if it failed hard or something), and I made sure it could not rattle. I also placed it like this so that its install was not evident at all around the battery area without fully disassembling the trim like we have here for the install.

YOU'RE DONE!

Just test the device to confirm it's working, and then reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Hopefully someone will find this helpful.

Cheers

 

Thanks much for the details on this!! I'll definitely have this out when I receive the module.....and get my car back!

You are.....THE MAN!

 

Thanks for putting this together!

 

Hello,

I just got this module and looking forward to installing it. I haven’t done work on cars before (took me forever choose location for battery tender eyelets). Thank you for your thoughtful and detailed pictorial guide. Before diving in, I ask - what are those clear connectors that you pictured in the 7th and 6th picture from the bottom? They don’t seem part of the ASR? Why were they disconnected to start? Finally, why is the boot light disconnected at the beginning?

I’ve been searching for a Blue’s Clues-level video guide on the internet but haven’t found anything close to your guide. Thank you for your time.

 

Hi there,

Those pictures you are asking about are in reference to steps #8 and #9 in the guide. That is just a connector giving power to the light on that side panel you are going to be removing. You are correct, that connector has nothing to directly do with the ASR install itself.

The 6th imagine down from the top shows the light connector connected as you first pull the panel back a bit…You just need to make sure you disconnect that before removing the panel anymore than depicted in that image, as you clearly could cause some problems otherwise.

Make sense?

Hope that helps…

Cheers

 

DMeister, thanks for the clarification. Makes loads of sense. My other question regarded this yellow-circled trunk lighting connector they instruct disconnecting. This suggestion isn’t intuitive like “disconnect male and female, reconnect later, etc”. It’s just, “disconnect the connector”. It seems free-hanging? Am I missing something?

cheers

 

Do you have a coupe or convertible? My instructions are in reference to a coupe to be clear. Pretty sure that picture you are showing there is a picture of a convertible?

 

Coupe. That answers the question. Thank you for responding and by extension welcoming me to the community.

all the best

 

Yeah, okay, so nothing to worry about. Just follow my guide and you should have no surprises. I assume that picture was from the ASR documentation. I remember they used the convertible in their docs…I guess that’s what they had access to.

I understand what you are doing here…Just gathering clarity and getting comfortable with everything in your brain before tearing your F-type apart…lol…Totally get it. I felt the same at the time. This was why I did this guide, to hopefully make things clearer and less concerning for someone else.

In any case, welcome, and best of luck. It’s a really great product. You will love it.

Cheers

 

Ha!! Nailed it.
Can’t wait

 

She’s a beauty! Congrats! Red interior. Nice choice. I too went with that red interior on my R. Took me a lot to make that choice, as I’m generally pretty boring with my choices, but I’m glad I didn’t go with black leather now. It’s not a really bright red interior in person, so I really like it…

 

Gorgeous spec! And thank you. It grew on me, now I love it for bringing out my whimsy, which is what a fun ride should do! Only (not regret) not getting the R - those wheels and side skirt are something else! Do you know of reputable sites I can source mods or the other like the skirt? That stance is something else! Most products seem iffy/made for pre-facelift models. We have veered off the ASR path. Nice meeting ya.

 

It’s all good, we love talking about all aspects ;-0

Unfortunately I couldn’t give you much of a recommendation there. Perhaps post a new thread about it. Some others might be able to give some recommendations. Lots of modders around here. My car is essentially stock, so I haven’t been exposed to many vendors for that sorta stuff.

The mods I have done is a ASR valve controller (as you know), and I’m soon about to open things up a bit more by replacing the back box with a Velocity AP axel back exhaust solution. It apparently makes quite a difference. All without needing to re-map etc, which was what I wanted. Will be installing that over the winter.

 

Makes sense! I'll be taking your advice.

Be sure to report back on that sweet result :P

Cheers

 

Disassembly instructions were awesome. Waiting for UPS to arrive with the RX-1. 😭

Thanks again!

 

Hey, no problem. Glad you found it helpful.

It’s a great product. You’re gonna love it.

Looking at your picture reminds me I have to still talk to my dealer about my car not coming with that foam holder there for the tow hook. Never received it. It’s not ideal just having the tow hook thrown in next to the battery,

 

Got it all buttoned back up. I couldn't get that trim panel in the middle flush like it was so I'll make more adjustments over the weekend. The device worked flawlessly, which is great these days. I zip tied it out of the way of any potential hazards. One thing I noticed immediately was I can clearly hear augmented sound from the speakers now when I activate the exhaust button inside. I knew it was there, but I never heard it so clearly. It's very prominent in the comfort setting with the module off [3]. I will avoid that at all costs. I'll get it out on the road for a few miles this weekend to see how well it performs while driving. Have you noticed anything different about the remotes? I'm guessing maybe just different designs. They both work, so it's no big deal. Just odd to have different styles.

Thanks again for the trim removal tips and pics.

Now, I'm working hard to avoid an ECU remap. They're priced great, but potential warranty claims make me pause. No way I'm going to last 5 years like this. 😭

 

Hmm, weird, everything went back as it was originally for me. Not sure what to say there. Maybe something needs to be reseated, not sure.

I’m a bit confused why you are saying the installation of this lead you to hear augmented sound any more than normally would be the case? When the device is inactive the car should just behave stock. Could you explain a bit more? Even before installing the device, just going into dynamic mode for me gave sort of fake sounding exhaust in the cab while idling, the ASR aside. When I’m underway I don’t really notice much, mostly likely because I drive with my windows down a lot of the time.

The 2 remotes that came with mine look different from one another too, if that’s what you mean, and that is expected. I don’t use them anyway. I programmed the ASR to the Homelink buttons on the roof for a nice integrated feel, controlling it that way.

No ECU remaps for me. The power in the R is already bonkers for the street for me. Do you have an R or a P450?

The next thing for me is replacing the stock back exhaust box with an aftermarket axel back, the one from VAP. It will work with the stock actuators and mesh perfectly with this ASR. Apparently it will make a huge bump in sound compared to stock.

 

Just to get my head around this, with the ASR controller fitted, do you still need to ensure the valves are closed to allow a successful regen? It's just a more convenient way to do so.

Or does it trick the ECU to think the valves are closed and it will perform the regen, ultimately avoiding damage to the solenoid?

My personal concern is I never drive the car constantly above 50mph for a sustained period to initiate the regen. I don't drive on motorways or highways where I live, so perhaps the device is pointless anyway.

 

I know it’s confusing, and there is a crap ton of info to go through in that fuse 15 PSA thread. You will notice I was quite active in that thread. The issue was very important to me, so I did a lot of research and talked to many different vendors about the issue (exhaust companies, valve controller companies, etc.). Summary for me based on the info I took in and could somewhat confirm—>

1)
It is not an accident that the newer cars have an electric-based actuator vs. the vacuum-based setup for the valves in the older cars. It is apparently an intricate part of the process the ECU goes through to be able to initiate and control a GPF regeneration cycle. As I understand it that cycle may want the valves open or closed at different points in the burn cycle depending on certain variable conditions. That said, the ultimate problem is the ECU is somehow able to see that it does not have that control it wants if the fuse 15 is physically pulled, or if that equivalent Claws Out mode talked about on the forum is employed (which effectively pulls fuse 15 as well, without actually physically pulling it). Because of this it will literally never even attempt to initiate a regen cycle with fuse 15 pulled (under any situation).

I was actually able to get ASR, and one other valve controller vendor with a similar product, to fully state/acknowledge that this is truly the case where the ECU won’t initiate a burn cycle under fuse 15 pulled conditions. It makes sense to me that they would have this sort of understanding/knowledge given they engineered their products, need an understanding of such issues, etc.

The ASR achieves its valve control without pulling fuse 15, so the ECU is still happy and WILL be able to still initiate GPF burn cycles.

This was also key info I received from one of these valve controller companies (it was not ASR): It is true that, even though the ECU thinks it has the control it wants over the valves with the ASR in place, it will not have that. So even though it will initiate, the burn will not necessarily occur in an optimal manner. They mentioned that they have knowledge that this was problematic on some cars (gave BMWs as an example) where the regen cycle couldn’t actually always work out properly, but that on F-types the exhaust runs much hotter, making it less of an issue in practice.

I, like you, don’t often find myself driving in optimal conditions for a GPF regen. I plan to monitor my GPF buildup with a scan tool, and possibly run manual burn cycles with a scan tool in response to that monitoring as necessary. Also, if I was going to go for a specific ride to initiate a burn cycle more traditionally I would just put my ASR in the mode where the car is running as it would fully stock (so that the ECU does truly have full control over the valves). I would do the same if using a scan tool to manually initiate a burn cycle.

2)
I was never able to definitively understand the other aspect of this solenoid failure business that was also being talked about as a related concern of pulling fuse 15. This was also info put out into the universe by that Paul Busby guy at Viezu Tuning. I have no idea for sure if this is actually a real thing, but I felt that the GPF initiation problem (I could confirm more) was enough to stop pulling the fuse anyway. Then it also takes the risk of this mystery solenoid failure problem off the table as well, and I don’t need to worry about it. We’ll find out in a few years if there are a bunch of failures all over the place.

I will say this: During the short period of time I was using the Claws out mode equivalent of pulling fuse 15 there were P2169 “Exhaust pressure regulator vent solenoid” codes being thrown on my Icarsoft code reader. Once I installed the ASR and reset those codes I have never seen it return. Take this for what it’s worth, but to me this is pretty significant info. I just feel better not having to worry about it any more, be throwing these codes, etc.

3)
Pulling fuses that are intended to be there is just bad practice. I like that I’m not doing this now.

4)
The final point I would make is that this ASR controller is such a polished product. Its use is perfect and seamless. You cannot say the same about the Claws out mode stuff. That worked, but there were a few idiosyncrasies to understand with that. The ASR is a polished commercial product that just fully works perfectly without anything to think about. The ASR also has the awesome feature of offering the most quiet option for cold starts possible for F-types. It has a mode that allows for having the valves completely closed the entire time during the startup. Depending on neighbour situations this could be helpful.

—-

I talked about all of this in that PSA thread, but happy to take the time to restate a few things here.

I feel a lot more comfortable with the ASR in play myself. Certainly based on the info I have, and have been able to confirm. The rest that I can’t confirm, well the risk is off the table regardless.

Hope this helps.

Cheers