Can anyone explain the rear wheel bearing adjustment on this lovely British beauty. Thanks as always

 

The hub flange bearings are set with SHIMS!!!!!!!!!!

 

Welcome to the forums Putter03?,

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XJ40 forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model.

Graham

 

Hi Putter03?,

The top-tier OEM bearing makers such as Timken and SKF have such precise manufacturing tolerances that typically you can just change the bearings and use the old shims and all will be good. Just take care to note the positions of the old shims during disassembly.

Also, Jaguar insists the rear axle nuts can only be used once and must be replaced after removal. The helical locking insert inside the nut deforms under the extreme torque (220+ ft. lbs.) and will not work a second time. At least two members of the forums re-used their axle nuts and discovered they had loosened later on.

I have photo albums on the rear wheel bearing job in the link in my signature. Unfortunately the large images still are down at Jag-Lovers, but the thumbnails and descriptions are still visible.

Cheers,

Don

 

Putter03?, I have gotten the rear hub apart, (someone had been there previously) (1988 xj6/xj40), the adjustable spacer is missing. By ‘adjustable’ spacer I assume they mean different thickness’s, please correct me if wrong. Without the spacer how can you determine the correct thickness for said spacer? Does anyone know what the dimensions of this spacer are and what the various thicknesses are? I could have one made if I knew. As always, I am eternally grateful for all the help. Putter

 

This is why I discourage people from replacing the bearings if they have never done it OR did NOT read (and comprehend) the repair manual thoroughly.
Likely someone previously attempted to replace the bearings and lost the 'shim-spacer' as it was 'stuck' to the original bearing and discarded with the faulty unit.

The large spacer is used along with the correct thin adjustable preload shim to set the bearings in the hub assy.

The thin one is installed at the factory and I ALWAYS use that one in the same hub when bearings are replaced!!!
The factory has already done the work for you so just go with it!!!

People starting with a NEW replacement are are a SEVERE disadvantage because the preload needs to be set from 'scratch'.

The parts dept will ask "WHAT SIZE DO YOU WANT TO ORDER?"
You will say "I don't know, just order all of them and I will bring the rest I don't need BACK after I get the preload correct."

The parts dept will say "ALL PARTS ARE NON-RETURNABLE FOR SPECIAL ORDERS SO YOU WILL OWN ALL OF THEM AND WE DO NOT WANT ANY OF THEM BACK," (by the way, they are $26.00 each and there are 20 to choose from or something like that)

You will say, "I only need the correct one but I won't know until I find it".

The parts dept will say "ALL PARTS ARE NON-RETURNABLE FOR SPECIAL ORDERS SO YOU WILL OWN ALL OF THEM AND WE DO NOT WANT ANY OF THEM BACK, SO WHICH ONE(S) DO YOU WANT?"

You and the parts guy will go 'round&round' until you understand that you screwed up royally.

I ALWAYS buy a good-used axle/hub assy from a salvage yard and replace the bearings with the EXACT shim set in the used hub and then install it on the car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I used to do this EVEN when I worked at the dealer because I don't need to own a set of 20 shims for the rest of my life trying to set up a hub assy.

The setup can be done with a jig and a set of calipers/micrometers to get the shim selected from the list but good luck and be very patient. (been there, done that)

 

Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge, so I beleave what you’re saying is…’kill the parts car I’m driving and take the ‘darn’ parts’. Do I need to take the axle, carrier, and hub as a set or just axle and hub? Number 1 has 86,000 miles on it, parts has 150,000 on it, all bearings, races, and seals will be replaced. Thanks again for your help and directions

 

I like to buy the hub and axle from the inner flange to the bearing nut as a complete assy so I know I got everything without missing parts.
People try to 'help' by taking things apart and then don't understand that there are additional items or disassemble incorrectly and damage components by mistake.

I don't think I ever paid more than $100 for a hub/axle assy from a salvage car so it is cheap insurance to get the correct setup.

It might be better to find the axle/hub from a wrecked car and leave your parts car intact?
It depends on the price of the part and the drivability of the parts car.

 

well I got a shim for the rear hub bearing (CBC 9505-10). Next question, on my drawing the adjustable spacer (CAC 5826) #4 is located next to the outer bearing, the spacer I have fits between the bearing spacer and the inner bearing and it is .105” thick. Inside or outside of the spacer, as long as there is no interference shouldn’t make a difference should it? Then it is off to the drawing board following your directions to figure out shim thickness needed. Thanks again for your help…trying to save the parts car for now