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03 X-type 2.5L engine knocking

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Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:07 PM
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Default 03 X-type 2.5L engine knocking

So i bought a 03 Jag today and drive it two and a half hours home. I had to stop half way to fill up and use regular because it was all that was available. It ran perfect till i was almost home and when i tried to come to a stop the engine would die. it would have trouble starting and didnt want to keep running. Now it idles good there is just a knocking in the engine. The codes we got were p0300 p0304 p0306 p1314 p0430 p1000.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 08:22 AM
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Dan, first off, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good information and people here that are willing to help. But, we do ask a small favor from you. We pride ourselves in being a better car group. As a result, we are a friendlier bunch and we like to get to know one another. So, please stop by the New Member Section and tell us a little bit about yourself and your car. This will also give you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.

As for your problem. It is sounding like you simply need to refill the tank with the correct fuel. Our cars were built around using only premium fuel. In your case, the use of regular is causing the computer to not to be able to account for the lower octane rated fuel. Get the higher octane fuel back into the car and your problems should go away (you will either need to clear the codes yourself or they should clear on their own after about 5 runs of about 15KM/10 miles).

Some of our cars (X-Types) seem to handle the lower octane gas while others seem to hate it with a passion. Sounds like you have one of the later cars.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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so I added the correct fuel and let it idle for 10 min. The sound didn't go away and a little bit of antifreeze dripped out. I have read it could be the bolts on the torque converter. Is there any way to get diagrams of the engine?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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I do notice the P0430 code O2 sensor issue, I currently have that code....I believe I got that code because I had an engine misfire when oil got in my spark plugs, knocking might be to do with the spark plugs. The misfire most likely shot my catalytic convertor.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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So i pulled all the plugs and im just wondering what are the best plugs for the car? I also checked the pistons and the fifth one is darker but the rest look fine. The sound appears to be coming from the first cylinder.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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Dan, when it comes to plugs, the more simple, the better. We have found that the multi-spark spark plugs actually cause the computer to have fits. Get yourself a brand name double platinum plug (NGK, Autolite, Bosch) and go from there. PLugs like the BOsch +4's, Splitfires, etc will give you more grief than resolution to anything.

As for the darker piston, odds are you have had a slight fueling issue with that cylinder. But, new plugs should correct that.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 09:44 PM
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Alright I changed the plugs and noticed that there is a little oil in the first cylinder, where the noise is coming from. What is the best way to get it out?
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 07:38 AM
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Dan, if you don't want to pull the plug, get yourself some paper towels and soak it up that way. I would still recommend pulling the plug so you can wipe the plug off really good to get rid of any residual oil.

Or, simply remove the plug, let the little bit of oil drip into the cylinder and when you start your car, it will burn it out of the cylinder and then all you have is a little leftover in the plug well that you have to wipe out.

Don't forget to wipe the inside of the coil to get rid of any oil there.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 08:02 AM
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Dan, another thing you should consider is to replace the valve cover gasket as oil may have been seeping through there into the plugs.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 03:26 PM
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after letting idle for a while and sound would go away and come back but sounds better than before. I drove it around the block to see if it would help, it ran perfect(with the ticking) tell it got up to temperature. Whenever i tried to come to a stop or let off the gas the oil pressure light goes off and the engine dies. Also the abs light is always on, i dont think that would make a difference.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 06:17 AM
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I think you may have two bad coil packs on cylinders 4 and 6 and unfortunately they might have damaged your catalytic converters. The coil packs sometimes work ok when the engine is cold and then stop firing when they get warm and this seems to be what you are experiencing.

May want to put two coil packs on those two cylinders and see if that fixes it. If it runs better after that, before you get new catalytic converters you can try running a bottle of cataclean in it and see if that helps with the other codes.

Good luck!
 

Last edited by ltmax; Jul 6, 2014 at 06:21 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 08:08 PM
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So i pulled the oil pan off and discovered that one of the crankshaft bearings blew. Everything else seems to be in good condition and hopefully that is all that needs to be changed.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 09:53 PM
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Kinda sounds like a head gasket may be leaking also.
The antifreeze drip, the oil in 1st cylinder, runs good then pisses you off.
If any of them codes you listed are a misfire of the oily cylinder then be prepared.
At least do leak down test on the cylinders to be safe.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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Do I have to use jaguar piston rod bearings or am I able to order a different brand that still fits?
 
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 06:49 PM
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I've tried twice in the past to fix a bad rod bearing with the engine in the car and both times it turned out to be a complete waste of effort. (funny but both of them were on Ford V-6 engines...)

From what I learned the hard way is; usually when the bearing fails it damages the crankshaft and unless you turn the crank any new bearing and rod will quickly start to knocking once again in short order after it's installed due to the crank now being egg shaped and no longer round.

Hopefully in your case you'll have better luck and to answer your question, any brand of rod bearing will work just fine Jag OEM not required.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2014 | 12:18 PM
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What is the torque needed on the bolts for the bearings?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DanTheMan
What is the torque needed on the bolts for the bearings?
Page 32
had to cut out the section due to size. Let me know if you need any more.

Good luck
 
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Old Sep 28, 2015 | 07:16 PM
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So its been awhile since i've posted anything here but glad to say i finally got the jag up and running almost like new again! I started working at a gm dealership and talked a mechanic there into doing all the work for me. Parts were easy to find i guess cause the parts guy found them all for me. I didn't have to do a thing. So the bill for the engine and swap plus new winter tires, brake pads and rotors, wheel sensor and hub came out to about 4k. Put a sound system in it and new key fob cause the old one died. Now its an awesome running and driving jag but sadly i'm selling it because i bought a cadillac from the dealership that i work at. Thanks for everyones help!
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 12:28 AM
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Thanks for coming back, even though you're moving on! Highly commendable. Sounds like someone's gonna get a sweet ride from you.
 
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