2003 X-Type 2.5 mis-firing?
Morning All!
I recently adopted a 2003 X-Type 2.5, and while everything was running great at first, little niggling glitches are gradually getting worse. It seems that folks at the regular shops (Firestone, Goodyear, etc) are doing the best they can, but I get the distinct impression they are taking a stab-in-the-dark approach! So I'm looking for some more specific expert help - of course, cost is also a factor!
Right now, my biggest issue is some generally light rough running, almost like it's skipping a cylinder on rare occasions. This is linked to a check engine light, the diagnosis code, according to Firestone, is something to do with a Lean Mix error. I also get the "Cruise not Available" message fairly regularly. (Although this also happens when I am using Cruise, and it doesn't appear to shut it down!)
More seriously, if I punch the gas at low speeds, I get no response... the engine doesn't stall... it just doesn't pick up speed... I have to feed in the gas slowly (no more than 1/2 the travel on the gas pedal). Also, once I get just shy of 3,000rpm, I get some serious stuttering, more like 2 or 3 cylinders are out, and it's hard to go any faster - I have to ease off the gas, and let the shifter do it's thing, then feed in the gas in the next gear!
I've tried this in regular mode, and Sport mode (pressing the "S" button on the J-gate) - same results in both.
Sorry this is so long - trying the "free advice" route before committing my pocket book, of course! Any ideas would be appreciated. Firestone did the "fuel system flush" (not sure if that means anything was done to fuel filter/pump) and they said next step *might* be HT leads/plugs... but budget is tight, so I thought I'd try here first!
If you made it this far, thank you!
Regards,
David.
I recently adopted a 2003 X-Type 2.5, and while everything was running great at first, little niggling glitches are gradually getting worse. It seems that folks at the regular shops (Firestone, Goodyear, etc) are doing the best they can, but I get the distinct impression they are taking a stab-in-the-dark approach! So I'm looking for some more specific expert help - of course, cost is also a factor!
Right now, my biggest issue is some generally light rough running, almost like it's skipping a cylinder on rare occasions. This is linked to a check engine light, the diagnosis code, according to Firestone, is something to do with a Lean Mix error. I also get the "Cruise not Available" message fairly regularly. (Although this also happens when I am using Cruise, and it doesn't appear to shut it down!)
More seriously, if I punch the gas at low speeds, I get no response... the engine doesn't stall... it just doesn't pick up speed... I have to feed in the gas slowly (no more than 1/2 the travel on the gas pedal). Also, once I get just shy of 3,000rpm, I get some serious stuttering, more like 2 or 3 cylinders are out, and it's hard to go any faster - I have to ease off the gas, and let the shifter do it's thing, then feed in the gas in the next gear!
I've tried this in regular mode, and Sport mode (pressing the "S" button on the J-gate) - same results in both.
Sorry this is so long - trying the "free advice" route before committing my pocket book, of course! Any ideas would be appreciated. Firestone did the "fuel system flush" (not sure if that means anything was done to fuel filter/pump) and they said next step *might* be HT leads/plugs... but budget is tight, so I thought I'd try here first!
If you made it this far, thank you!
Regards,
David.
There's quite a few specific faults that could cause the problems you're having and a more specific code read out would help narrow it down - a code number such as P0171. The problem at 3000rpm is the ECU taking safety action and limiting engine performance because of the fault.
A common cause is a split on the underside of the 1 inch dia crankcase breather pipe that runs from the front cam cover to the inlet manifold - easy to repair temporarily with duct tape and a new one is cheap from your Jaguar dealer.
Other causes could be an air leak in the main air inlet trunking, a blocked fuel filter, a low fuel pump outlet pressure, a faulty injector, an O2 sensor or, at worst(!) an ECU fault.
Let's hope it's just the breather pipe!
A common cause is a split on the underside of the 1 inch dia crankcase breather pipe that runs from the front cam cover to the inlet manifold - easy to repair temporarily with duct tape and a new one is cheap from your Jaguar dealer.
Other causes could be an air leak in the main air inlet trunking, a blocked fuel filter, a low fuel pump outlet pressure, a faulty injector, an O2 sensor or, at worst(!) an ECU fault.
Let's hope it's just the breather pipe!
There's quite a few specific faults that could cause the problems you're having and a more specific code read out would help narrow it down - a code number such as P0171. The problem at 3000rpm is the ECU taking safety action and limiting engine performance because of the fault...
Are the Pxxxx code numbers here something that the folks at the Auto Parts store could give me? Or do I need a special Jaguar code reader?!? Any recommendations would be great, as I have the impression that my own code reader would be useful!
Thanks again,
David.
The fuel filter is an easy job too. I'm not a mechanic and I did mine in my driveway in about 20 minutes using a couple wrenches, a jack, and a bucket. Even an OEM Jaguar fuel filter like the one I bought is around $20. You really can't go wrong changing that out.
Oh, and the PXXXX codes are the ones that any code reader should be able to pick up. I just got mine read the other day at Pep Boys
Oh, and the PXXXX codes are the ones that any code reader should be able to pick up. I just got mine read the other day at Pep Boys
davidb831 - AutoZone or any other car place can give you a read out on the codes. The P codes will help out in pin pointing the issue.
Attached is a picture of the PCV tube in question. Make sure it is the ribbed tubed and not the smooth one.
Attached is a picture of the PCV tube in question. Make sure it is the ribbed tubed and not the smooth one.
hanks to all for their help so far - I realize it's limited without the codes. I didn't get a chance to check the breather pipe last night, but I did stop by AutoZone, and picked up a mid-range code reader. I could've had them do it for free, but I suspect this won't be the last time!
So here is what I got, engine idling, in Park, outside Autozone:
P0174 - Bank 2 System Too Lean
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0355 - Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean
P1313 - No Definition
P1316 - No Definition
P1000 - No Definition
I tried one more time before moving, and confirmed the same results. Then I drove home, about 25 minutes, half freeway, half back roads, and check again - same results.
I then cleared the codes, and rechecked. At first all I got was P1000, which I understand is normal. After driving back roads for about 10 minutes, check engine light came on again, and I rechecked codes. This is what I have now:
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean
P0355 - Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0174 - Bank 2 System Too Lean
P1000 - No Definition
I'm guessing it's probably just a matter of time before the other codes pop back up. If this backs up any diagnosis, or points down a different path, I'd appreciate any advice!
Thanks again!
David.
So here is what I got, engine idling, in Park, outside Autozone:
P0174 - Bank 2 System Too Lean
P0305 - Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0355 - Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean
P1313 - No Definition
P1316 - No Definition
P1000 - No Definition
I tried one more time before moving, and confirmed the same results. Then I drove home, about 25 minutes, half freeway, half back roads, and check again - same results.
I then cleared the codes, and rechecked. At first all I got was P1000, which I understand is normal. After driving back roads for about 10 minutes, check engine light came on again, and I rechecked codes. This is what I have now:
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean
P0355 - Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0174 - Bank 2 System Too Lean
P1000 - No Definition
I'm guessing it's probably just a matter of time before the other codes pop back up. If this backs up any diagnosis, or points down a different path, I'd appreciate any advice!
Thanks again!
David.
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Being lean on both banks is likely to lead to misfiring, so I would start with checks for air leaks in the main inlet trunk or the crankcase breather, then check fuel pressure at the fuel rail schrader valve - 55psi.
If that all proves OK, it might be time to check the ignition coils, starting with No 5.
If that all proves OK, it might be time to check the ignition coils, starting with No 5.
davidb831,
I would say the issue is with "P0355 - Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction", what is involved with fixing that item I don't know.
Here's the grocery list of items to check in the mean time:
1 – PCV hose
2 - Checked over the rubber boot from the air filter box to the throttle body for any holes or cracks.
3 – Checked for any Vacuum leaks
4 - Removed the throttle body and give it a through cleaning.
5 - Clean / Replaced MAF Sensor
6 - Have the battery checked. Make sure they check the amperage and not just the volts
7 – Replaced the Intake gaskets and the ones below the fuel rail. 12 total.
8 – Replaced the IMT Valve gaskets
9 – Replaced the PCV
10 – MAP Sensor - Next on the list, if the problem comes back.
Take serious look at the MAF. Since both banks are throwing codes.
I would say the issue is with "P0355 - Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction", what is involved with fixing that item I don't know.
Here's the grocery list of items to check in the mean time:
1 – PCV hose
2 - Checked over the rubber boot from the air filter box to the throttle body for any holes or cracks.
3 – Checked for any Vacuum leaks
4 - Removed the throttle body and give it a through cleaning.
5 - Clean / Replaced MAF Sensor
6 - Have the battery checked. Make sure they check the amperage and not just the volts
7 – Replaced the Intake gaskets and the ones below the fuel rail. 12 total.
8 – Replaced the IMT Valve gaskets
9 – Replaced the PCV
10 – MAP Sensor - Next on the list, if the problem comes back.
Take serious look at the MAF. Since both banks are throwing codes.
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