Most often evap temp sensor in the evaporator. Thinks the evap is frezing and shuts off the compressor

 

can anyone post a picture of the evap temp sensor where it is located?

 

I was finally able to get the fix done. For anyone who comes here after and has issues with their AC not working when the car idles, it's worth trying. The clincher for me to try it was that the instructions are a PDF directly from Jaguar... meaning they know about the problem, perhaps they even put the parts in the wrong way to begin with, and this is how you fix it.

I would have done it myself, in fact I ended up practically doing it myself. I just didn't have the gear to reclaim the r134a and didn't want to blast it into the ozone.

So, I found a garage who would do it, but didn't understand the fix, so I printed out the instructions provided on this forum and guided them through it.

I bought a new oil filter in advance just to get more room, took out the old filter, opened the compressor and removed the valve and the spring. He put the valve back in first and then cleaned the spring in a parts cleaner, before sticking it back in, buttoning it up and filling with r134a.

All for $100 bucks.

So far today I sat in 80 degree heat with the car parked and idling for 15 minutes and it continued to blow cold, which it wouldn't have done before unless I was pushing down in the accelerator.

Thanks for posting and I hope it continues to perform as summer just started.

-j

 

Just an FYI about R134a..

It is a HFC (hydrogen, fluorine and carbon) and not a CFC,(Chlorine, Fluorine, Carbon) therefore it is harmless to the Ozone layer in the Stratosphere..even if you believe the EPA BS and the Montreal protocal conspiracy....The problem with HFCs according Al Gore, is that they contain a Greenhouse gas (Carbon) so therefore contributes to Global warming....

 

I had the typical warm air during idle and had my mechanic perform the service bulletin, but it didn't work. He said he saw some signs of some metal dust in the compressor (ouch). Any suggestions and or ideas? Thanks guys ( and gals maybe).

 

have had my s type three years with this problem now thanks to this forum i finally got it fixed yesterday for £70 ,thank you so much

 

I would like to thanks xjrguy for his solution, I have just purchased a 2004 X-Type and on the first few drives didn't notice any AC issues but after several trips in traffic I had this exact problem, warm air at idle with AC on and cold when driving. I went to a local Jaguar specialist and he had not heard of this fix but did it anyway and what do you know, it worked a charm I took a copy of the service bulletin with me and when I went to collect the car the mechanic said "it's all done, and there's your spring!" I was a bit surprised and pointed out that the spring goes behind the valve? Doh! he said, that will teach me to read these things first . Anyway, they put the spring back in, re-gassed the system and all was well.

 

How much difference does the Valve Spring Mod TSB could make?
I have the same issue but I barely get any cold air even when rolling; however, colder than idling at a stop.
No gas leak, compressor engages, and the fan runs. Wondering whether I should replace the compressor or follow the TSB.
Also, if I don't recover r134a before the procedure, what would happen when I open the valve?
Thank you.

 

Depends if that's the real issue. Mine was cold only when gas was applied to the pedal and warm at idle. I did the fix over a year ago and it's still ice cold. Also to note you're other question, the mechanic who did the service didn't recover the gas, he just cracked open the bolt and blasted it into the atmosphere. Something that I could've done myself and specifically went to a professional so it would be recovered.

If you do it yourself, it will take five minutes, probably illegal to just crack it open though. You'll also need someone to vacuum the line and recharge it after. The whole thing cost me 100 bucks. Much less than a new compressor.

 

Frosting is sign of low freon.

 

Like many in this thread, I'm also having AC issues with my X-type.

My AC for the past 2 weeks has been warm when idling, and when I'm driving seems to alternate between cold and hot with 10-15 second cycles.

Is this the same issue others are describing? When I'm on the freeway, I still seem to have small bursts of cold air with slightly longer bursts of warm air. After a long drive (30-45 minutes), it seems to be slightly colder.

I had my AC recharged with 134A refrigerant and there was no improvement. I took it back in and they told me I needed to replace my compressor.

I assume I should try the repair in the bulletin in this thread before jumping to replacing the compressor? Does my issue sound the same as others?

Thanks!!

 

Probably it is the same issue if the recharge didn't help.
Unless you can save the freon and do it yourself, it would be better off to replace the compressor. There seems to be no guarantee that the bulletin will work and the compressor may be leaking freon as well. My case was probably both - freon was leaking from the compressor and the compressor was aged losing its efficiency. The tech bulletin method might help the efficiency but will still cost. I ended up getting a new compressor installed for $700, but you should be able to get it done cheaper.

 

I see this compressor replacement on buyautoparts for only $163 - is that a good unit for this? I'll take it over to a local jag mechanic and get it replaced. Or would they need the complete repair kit ($222.75)? With this and labor, I'm guessing I can get this all done for $400?

2003 Jaguar X Type A/C Compressor All Models 60-00797 NA

 

1) Can this be done in the car or does the compressor have to be removed ?

2) Do you need a new o-ring? If so what size?

3) I would assume a new dryer filter should be installed as well?

4) So you remove the valve, then remove the spring then clean the used valve put it back in and then put in the spring?

Thanks, Chris

 

Well, this is a two year old question, but I had the same issue:

Car would warm up while the AC was blowing good and cold. Then the compressor would shut off. Sometimes it would come back on for a few minutes. But then it would be all over. Now if I turned the car off, and back on, the AC would run like a champ for five minutes, then shut off. This could be repeated at each stop light, but wear and tear on starter/battery/patience...

Took it in to have it looked at. Two shops confirmed the compressor needed to be replaced. One explained the clutch had too much gap and the electromagnets would just quit. He said this was caused by wear on the clutch from repeated cycling... meaning there was a leak, and it was not addressed.

Replaced the compressor, and the AC worked great for 4 months. Now I have the other issue described in this forum. Now I am wondering if the new compressor had the valve fix done or not! But my symptom is the same as described. Plugged my gauge into the low side, and I'm reading about 60psi. I was afraid I had a leak, but now I don't think so... I'll call the AC company tomorrow to see if they know anything about the bulletin.

 

Hi there,

this is my Jag:

Jaguar X-type

This company did the interior:
Carbon Motors

A video showing the acceleration

Any opinion much appreciated!

Kind regards,
George

 

Great video and your car is beautifully done......so how's the A/C working?

 

JTB00183NAS1.pdf

I will be replacing the radiator and the A/C valve-spring problem either this weekend or next. I just ordered the A/C compressor O-ring from Jaguar, ~16 bucks. Surprising Jaguar doesn't mention replacing the dryer, so I guess I won't.

 

Same question here, I am about to perform the same procedure with the original parts.

Scratching my own head though. "Yes, our factory put these all in backwards. Go ahead and fix that, and then switch all tyres around. We've installed those backwards also."